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Rings not seating?

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  #1  
Old 07-25-2009 | 11:02 AM
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Default Rings not seating?

'09 Bullitt...new. 700 miles so, dipstick down about 1/2 quart. Hmmmm.
I've been breaking it in pretty easily, not taken to redline, keeping revs under 4,000, highway between 2-3,000.

So, should I get nasty, go through the gears to redline a few times?

In other words, suggestions on breaking in? Owner's manual says zilch.
 
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Old 07-25-2009 | 11:18 AM
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Usually it takes around 1,000 miles or so to really get a motor seated together well. I would take it easy like you did for the first 500-700 miles then every once in a while let it rip till it gets over 1,000 or so miles. Then I would let it rip all the time.
 
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Old 07-25-2009 | 11:22 AM
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Staying out of WOT is a good idea but not required by many accounts. Everyone has their own system but I go with a moderate whipping and oil changes. For you: go ahead and change your oil now and use a conventional 5w-20 oil, not synthetic (castrol, valvoline, NOT PENZOIL). Let that run through with constantly varying engine RPM's for about 1000 miles. Don't be afraid to see 5000+ rpm but do it at less than wide open throttle. Once you've tagged the new 1000 miles then change the oil and filter again and use the oil you like. I recommend Royal Purple or Redline for synthetic or Chevron's house brand or Castrol GTX for conventional.

But yeah, get nasty and wind it up. Drive it hard and it'll reward you, just don't drive it stupid.

You're less than 1000 miles from a broken in motor in any case.
 
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Old 07-25-2009 | 02:02 PM
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Like redneck says, everyone has their different ideas. Some will tell you to drive it like you intend to drive it, right from the get-go. I agree with the taking it easy, varied RPM's, etc.. As for setting the rings, an engine guy I know suggests traveling up hills in a gear high enough to where the engine is not winding out, i.e. 5th gear at 2500 RPM's or something similar.

Again, everyone has their opinions, and you can talk to 50 different people and get 50 different opinions. It is of course normal to consume oil (to an extent) during break-in. Just keep an eye on it. Pay attention to the oil when you drain it the first time. A little metallic looking stuff is normal.

You could do a compression test, but I wouldn't waste my time- for awhile anyway. Also, I am assuming you are not running synthetic oil, right?
 
  #5  
Old 07-25-2009 | 07:36 PM
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FWIW, I'm still running whatever came from the factory. I asked if this was dino or synthetic, I never got a definitive answer. Not much help when I asked about break in either.

I like Redneck's suggestion of running a good dino oil for the next 1,000 miles or so, then switching to synthetic.

Think I'll pay through the nose...have the change done at the dealership, just in case any warranty problems crop up.

Thank everybody for their input!
 
  #6  
Old 07-26-2009 | 07:10 AM
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Originally Posted by pwd72s
FWIW, I'm still running whatever came from the factory. I asked if this was dino or synthetic, I never got a definitive answer. Not much help when I asked about break in either.

I like Redneck's suggestion of running a good dino oil for the next 1,000 miles or so, then switching to synthetic.

Think I'll pay through the nose...have the change done at the dealership, just in case any warranty problems crop up.

Thank everybody for their input!
Ford uses full or blended synthetic. Not sure what's in the S197s but the SN95s had the blend.
 
  #7  
Old 07-26-2009 | 08:53 PM
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so I take it mine is an SN95 engine? Still trying to learn the lingo here. This my first ever Mustang. Okay, will go pick up a 6 pak of valvoline 5-20 before hitting the stealership...if they don't carry conventional oil.
 
  #8  
Old 07-27-2009 | 05:25 AM
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SN95 isn't an engine, it's a platform. Yours is the S197, the last gen was SN95.
 
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Old 07-27-2009 | 08:01 AM
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your engine is often referred to as a three valve, 3v or modular three valve. Which means basically, it's got three valves per cylinder, single overhead cams and it's built using Ford's "modular" production line. They make the 4.6, 5.4 and 6.8L V10 engines on a common production system so there's dimensionally a lot in common between the motors. More than that, the 2v SOHC, 3v SOHC, and 4v DOHC heads are all built the same way. The platform lends itself well to mixing and matching.
 
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Old 07-27-2009 | 11:02 AM
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Thanks for filling this newbie in on the terminology. I figue if I hang out here long enough, I'll learn.

Long as I'm here...anybody know where I can pick up a chilton or similar manual on the S197?
 
  #11  
Old 07-27-2009 | 08:44 PM
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Your local auto parts store, Amazon, Borders, etc.
 
  #12  
Old 07-27-2009 | 10:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bassman97
Your local auto parts store, Amazon, Borders, etc.
I wish...have tried several of the chain auto stores...no luck on an '09.
Maybe too new?

(edit) Did have a nice chat with the service manager at the dealership today. Leaned that the car came with a blended oil...no warranty problems if I switch to conventional. Found that 5-20 isn't all that easy to find in conventional oil in this town. Finally picked up some Castrol that should work as break in. Dealershp has no problem installing it, since their oil is synthetic blend.

Thanks everybody for the input. Much appreciated.
 

Last edited by pwd72s; 07-30-2009 at 01:00 AM.
  #13  
Old 07-29-2009 | 10:20 PM
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the manuals have websites so if they have came out w one for the 09 it will be on there
 
  #14  
Old 08-08-2009 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 10507158
the manuals have websites so if they have came out w one for the 09 it will be on there
Thanks...looking like it's a "not yet" item. Oh well, I have time. (edit) on the rings thing, haven't really gone enough miles to give a report on oil consumption with the castrol...will do an update later.
 

Last edited by pwd72s; 08-08-2009 at 01:02 PM.
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