I've been busy installing the Steeda Firewall Adjuster, Steeda Quadrant, and the Maximum Motorsports Pedal Adjuster. I've got it all on the car. Here is where the issue is; I think I've got it all adjusted to when the clutch pedal is completely pressed down, the clutch is disengaged. But as soon as I let it up not even an inch the clutch starts the engage.

Is this how is is supposed to be or do I need to adjust it to where I have more pedal plat before it engages. (perhaps it is never even fully disenagaging and therefore will lead to clutch wear problems?)

And do I need to screw the firewall adjuster in or out?

 

I took the MM pedal adjuster off, it moved the pedal about .5" lower than the brake pedal and that was the highest it would go. Now, when the clutch pedal is pressed in fully, it takes a long time, like 3-4 inches before the clutch starts to engage. And the pedal when not pressed in is about .5" above the brake.

Should I put the pedal adjuster kit back on?

Main Question: Is it fine that there is only about an inch of clutch pedal travel before the clutch begins to engage?

 

If you're worried about whether the clutch is fully disengaging w/ that small of a travel, jack the rear end up, push the clutch down all the way, shift into first, and while someone watches, rev the engine. At idle, the wheels shouldn't move but as you rev the engine, the would should start to move, but w/ only enough force to just turn them.

 

I will probably try that, but I am a little confused. Are you saying that the wheels SHOULD turn as I increase the RPMs with the clutch pedal completely pressed, or that that will happen only if the clutch is not fully disengaging. I drove the car a bit last night and everything seems normal. I haven't experienced anything that would make me think that something is wrong. The clutch pedal travel is just really cut in half, not near as much leg work. If everything is working the way it should then I think it's a really great mod, but a PITA to put in.

 

spam fixed

 

With the clutch pedal held down, the wheels should turn when you rev the engine, but w/ only enough force to just turn them (by revving I mean reasonable rpms, nothing more than 3,000-4,000). If you notice them turning pretty fast, the clutch isn't disengaging all the way.

 

I have mine setup to where its not fully engaged till the clutch is around half way out. Otherwise you have no room for slipping the clutch for daily driving etc.. If you can only move it out hardly at all before it bits you need to tighten up the cable to use more pedal travel.

 

Spike, you described my problem. I have only about an inch to play with before the clutch it really grabbing, so I can't slip it much. So I need to screw out the firewall adjuster? I tried to not screw it out anymore than it needed to be because the instructions told of TOB or clutch fork issues. I'm not very knowledgeable about this topic, obviously.

 

Well if you have around 1 inch then yes you need to move the firewall adjuster out to make the cable tighter so you can move the clutch pedal more before it fully engages. It took me around a solid month of messing with it till I found the sweet spot where I liked it. Like I said mine is almost fully engaged at the halfway point going up so I can still slip it for daily driving, yet it still fully lets go so the clutch does not slip when I am on the bottle.