Show Me Your ROTORS
#1
Show Me Your ROTORS
I'm doings some cleaning up in the wheel wells and I'm trying to figure out what Rotors I want to get for my Mustang.
Drilled, Slotted, Drilled and Slotted, Silver Zinc, gray or Black, etc etc. So many choices.
I'm using stock GT silver metallic 5-spoke and you see everything through the wheel.
I originally was thinking - drilled and slotted with black coating on the non brake pad friction areas with Black calipers.
Now I'm thinking drilled silver zinc plating rotors and Silver Calipers.........
What are you using?
Got any pics?
Drilled, Slotted, Drilled and Slotted, Silver Zinc, gray or Black, etc etc. So many choices.
I'm using stock GT silver metallic 5-spoke and you see everything through the wheel.
I originally was thinking - drilled and slotted with black coating on the non brake pad friction areas with Black calipers.
Now I'm thinking drilled silver zinc plating rotors and Silver Calipers.........
What are you using?
Got any pics?
#2
Pick your brakes based on needs not apprearance. Drilled rotors are **** period. Slotted are fine, plain are best for street cars.
Zinc coatings are for rust resistance on the parts that are not subject to friction.
I use Baer Eradispeed 1 piece for most things. They never warp ever but they're very expensive rotors. I recently got a set of power-stop rotors from TMD (The Mustang Depot ebay store) and they're really great for the price. 125 bucks for a complete cobra set with slots. Been flogging the crap out of the new brakes with EBC yellow stuff pads and they're not warped yet.
Zinc coatings are for rust resistance on the parts that are not subject to friction.
I use Baer Eradispeed 1 piece for most things. They never warp ever but they're very expensive rotors. I recently got a set of power-stop rotors from TMD (The Mustang Depot ebay store) and they're really great for the price. 125 bucks for a complete cobra set with slots. Been flogging the crap out of the new brakes with EBC yellow stuff pads and they're not warped yet.
#3
From my conversations and research today I am finding out that the drilled are not as good of an idea as I might have thought. The slotted seem to give you the best with removing gases and keeping cooler under much harder braking situations. The drilled look cool but there is alot less area for the pad to brake on with some of those drilled rotors even though they can reduce heat.
I think I'm leaning toward slotted now. To tell you the truth my existing stock brakes are working great they just look terrible.
I actually was looking at the power-stop rotors today on the computer. They are really competitively priced.
I should check Ebay.
I think I'm leaning toward slotted now. To tell you the truth my existing stock brakes are working great they just look terrible.
I actually was looking at the power-stop rotors today on the computer. They are really competitively priced.
I should check Ebay.
#4
i got a set of FMS drilled and slotted rotors with my FMS calipers. they arnt coated, so after i put them on, drive the car around the block to make sure the brakes worked, and washed them, they discolored on the car. the first pics are of the instal. the next pics are of them "rusted" and the last few pics are with some bullitts i put on for a weekend. that weekend i masked the edge of the rotor and painted the center with high temp flat black engine paint. its worked great, and looked great. just scuffed them up with a scotch brite and painted them.
#5
Now that looks great! Nice job. By the way where did you get those Mustang emblemed calipers with the Running horse - Too cool.
Did you spray into the vent area around the perimeter of the rotors?
My stock ones are really rusty around that edge.
Thanks for the pics.
Did you spray into the vent area around the perimeter of the rotors?
My stock ones are really rusty around that edge.
Thanks for the pics.
#6
Note: modern pads do not outgas... they do glaze if you get em' hot enough. The slots do not give any gas a way to escape. All it does is wipe the pad clean.
Looks like clemson's got a tight looking ride. Well done.
Green... your research has paid off so far. Looks like you're getting the facts straight. I'd go ahead and grab a set of the power-stop rotors from TMD. I've really tried hard to destroy them (I got them SMOKING hot, literally, on day 1) and they're still perfect. I had thought that I wouldn't like them but I'm happy with them. If you can afford it, Baer Eradispeed 1 piece rotors are in fact the best longest lasting rotor money can buy.
Looks like clemson's got a tight looking ride. Well done.
Green... your research has paid off so far. Looks like you're getting the facts straight. I'd go ahead and grab a set of the power-stop rotors from TMD. I've really tried hard to destroy them (I got them SMOKING hot, literally, on day 1) and they're still perfect. I had thought that I wouldn't like them but I'm happy with them. If you can afford it, Baer Eradispeed 1 piece rotors are in fact the best longest lasting rotor money can buy.
#8
I picked the Pro-Stop crossed drilled and slotted. Affordable and incredible stopping power. Cross-drill cools off your rotors and slots for removing gases and better pad bite. r3dn3ck is right to pick your brakes based on needs not appearance. I got the Zinc coated and the same thing happen to me with discoloration. My needs were to have stopping power and cooling affect with ceramic pads. I love it
#10
basically i used a bunch of masking tape. used a bunch of straight lines to get the rough shape. then i sprayed them and let them dry, then put them back on and drove it. the pad cleaned up the last few MM of paint over spray.
the calipers are special edition mach calipers. many different websites carry them, they are FMS. looking forward to getting the rears on...
the calipers are special edition mach calipers. many different websites carry them, they are FMS. looking forward to getting the rears on...
#11
Pick your brakes based on needs not apprearance. Drilled rotors are **** period. Slotted are fine, plain are best for street cars.
Zinc coatings are for rust resistance on the parts that are not subject to friction.
I use Baer Eradispeed 1 piece for most things. They never warp ever but they're very expensive rotors. I recently got a set of power-stop rotors from TMD (The Mustang Depot ebay store) and they're really great for the price. 125 bucks for a complete cobra set with slots. Been flogging the crap out of the new brakes with EBC yellow stuff pads and they're not warped yet.
Zinc coatings are for rust resistance on the parts that are not subject to friction.
I use Baer Eradispeed 1 piece for most things. They never warp ever but they're very expensive rotors. I recently got a set of power-stop rotors from TMD (The Mustang Depot ebay store) and they're really great for the price. 125 bucks for a complete cobra set with slots. Been flogging the crap out of the new brakes with EBC yellow stuff pads and they're not warped yet.
BTW, when you gte a GREEN or YELLOW in the front, what do you do in the rear?
#12
for my combo I need a pretty aggressive rear pad so I use either an akebono or a set from my local race shop that are made to their specs from kevlar and ceramic.
I still LOVE these rotors and pads. They get hard abuse every day and they never vary from the feel I had on day 1. For a stock suspension car with cobra fronts and solid rears I'd use EBC yellow up front and green in back. If you do green in the front then use OEM replacement or Hawk HPS in the rear. That'll keep it balanced.
I still LOVE these rotors and pads. They get hard abuse every day and they never vary from the feel I had on day 1. For a stock suspension car with cobra fronts and solid rears I'd use EBC yellow up front and green in back. If you do green in the front then use OEM replacement or Hawk HPS in the rear. That'll keep it balanced.
#16
i REALLY, REALLY like the look of those
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