My car is doing the one wheel peel again.....Its embarrasing. Do you have to pull apart the whole rearend to change the clutches? I only have simple hand tools and one jack. Can I do this in a parking lot? Anyone have a link to a "how-to" on this? If it requires removal of the axles and gears, im just going to forget about it and stop drag racing for awhile.....Dont want to put all my money into the rearend right now. I have an engine that needs to get built soon.....

 

i've NEVER done this, but the way it's setup (if it's a t-lok) i wouldn't think you'd have to take everything apart, you would have to take the pumpkin cover off, get new fluid, etc. but i don't think you'd have to take the gears out and stuff. but let me emphesize, this is just what i think!

 

Carrier needs a rebuilt. Its not something the average joe can do. My suggestion is have someone who knows what they are doing.

 

sometimes you have to dig deep in the pockets to make things work for ya. you mine as well just throw in some 31 splines with some sort of diff. it should cost in the neighborhood of 1k to buy the parts and install.

why pay for a install twice. you could wait till your motor is built and do one leg burn outs with a 500+ hp car

 

Yea but i feel like my current engine may be nearing its end here by the end of the year. I dont have the funds to get the rear built and have the engine built also. So its either I build the rear, and drop in another stock engine, Or build up the engine and ride on a burnt differential until next year.....I want that engine.

It sucks though because this kills my launches and 60ft times badly. I might as well not even have the welds and drag radials with it like that....

 

i had to pull money from my motor fund because of this move to germany. i didnt realize how expensive it is out here. i need to make staff sgt this year so i can get that extra 2-3 hundred bucks a month.

edit: whats wrong with the motor you have now? you said its either the rear or drop in another stock motor? did you spin a rod bearing or somethin?

 

No its fine right now, just has 130,000 miles on it and counting Its an ultra DD. I have to drive 70 miles round trip every day to work and sometimes more if we have extra jobs. I think by the end of this year ill probably have racked up more than 150k and IMO thats time for swapping another engine especially boosted. I would like to have the engine built before this one takes a dump on me..... then ill be paying for the stock motor swap, and then swapping it again with a built one not long after..... oh yea I forgot to mention I already have a spare stock motor (low mileage) in the shed waiting for parts.

 

Its not hard to do at all. You have to do the fallow and ive done it in my garage on TWO jackstads. I happen to of found this write up online. Its easy ive done it a few times. If your not regearing the car then you dont need to reset the pinion depth etc....

http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ild/index.html

Its really not tuff and you dont need to use that 100buck rebuild kit the regular 40buck ones are fine. and you can search some more and see how you can add one more friction disk to the packs on each side to make it tighter.

 

wow, thats nothing I could do without having the car in my own shop.....

 

it's really not hard. I've done it. No clearances are going to need to be tinkered on. It should be as easy as an axle swap.

 

Not true its just a simple matter of pulling the axles out and pulling the posi and then fallowing the step by step with pics they give you. I mean its really simple, just takes some time. Like i said if you aren't re-gearing then you don't need to worry about resetting the pinion depth and backlash etc.. as it wont change if you are not screwing with the gears.

 

Can I do it without the use of an impact wrench? While im pulling the whole rearend apart then I might as well change the gears. Still on 3:27 airplane gears. Wouldnt I need a shop press and everything to do that?

 

as long as you do not change gears you "should" be ok. i just did the kevlar FRPP clutches when i wapped the gears in my 8.8. you may not need an impact, but you prolly will need a long breaker bar/cheater pipe and a buddy. autozone usualy has an electric impact by their alt/starter tester they use to change pullys...

 

NO you dont. There is nothing that requires that its just taking off some regular bolts. Dont change your gears yourself if you haven't done it. Also you will need a tourqe wrench don't remember if i said that before otherwise thats it for a simple diff pull out.

 

Well I guess I may attempt this, but I am going to need a full day and step by step guide. Ill go ahead and order the clutch pack kit this week....Im decently mechanically inclined, but never done this before and dont want to get stuck and not be able to finish. I dont have another car so ill need all the equipment there when I start. I do have access to a nice torque wrench....

 

If you looked at the link i sent you can see every step on how ot pull the axles out and then redo the clutch packs.

 

that link doesnt make it look too bad. Since I have to pull the whole differential and axles out, I may as well put new parts in there. If I can get up enough money, ill go ahead and put in 31 spline axles with an 03/04 cobra differential. Im going to eventually break the stock axles anyways with my tire combo....

 

if you do that, then you might as well regear it too and just pay for someone to do the rebuild for you. the price for installing new gears and axles should be ruffly if not the same as the axles etc... all have to come off anyhow.

 

just got a deal on an 03/04 cobra differential with 3:55 gears for $150 ......lets see if I can find a deal on some axles........

 

3.55 are garbage find some 4.10s to get that thing moving in the boost.

 

just found out they are actually 3:73's. I just assumed they were 3:55s because this guy took it off his cobra.