Just a question im thinking about ordering the slp catted x pipe this week and i was wondering what is a ball park range of the price to have it installed because i really dont want to have to fight with the exhaust manifold flange bolts

 

1 hour of labor... whatever they charge. Around here it's about 100 bucks.

It's seriously not that hard if you have a long extension with a swivel-socket. Takes me maybe 15-20 minutes to hang one if I've got someone to hold up the back of the pipe.

 

Yeah, the Xpipe is a cinch. I could see if you were doing the headers.

 

i can scratch this idea right now cuz work just told me i have to goto Jamaica and Nassau at the end of next week... BASTARDS!! so its gonna have to hold off.

 

oh darn... you have to go to fuggin paradise. sucks to be you... snicker

 

Seriously though, when you get back from that horrific place hang the x pipe yourself. WD40 and an extension swivel (maybe a couple of beers for good measure) and you'll be fine.
Cheers
Cooper

 

you can hang one in 20 minutes with help sheeesh i wish i could do it that fast-- took me the longest time to get the old on off all rusted bolts and stuff then putting it on wasnt to bad but the fitment of the upr x pipe sux ballz so that made it alot more difficult

 

very easy if done correctly deff need a extension and a swivel socket no doubt..

 

if u havent already bought it dont...i hate mine..it hangs sooooooo low..im not lowered and i scrape on everything from various speed bumps and my driveway gutter from the road (my driveway is about 5 inches higher than the road...)...everyday i scrape the littlest bit!

im looking into somehting that has flat catylitic converters like magnaflow's or bbk shorty h's for LT's

 

Only reason it made me mad was cuz its on a short notice and i was planning to do something with my girl that week.

 

shoot my stock one scrapes already in order for me not to get a *CLUNK* or scrap i have to take speed bumps at an angle and then shoot to the opposit angle not to scrape and my stang isnt lowered either. thats why i wont lower my car now

 

well if u scrape now then you will certianly scrape after the x-pipe..there is a company that makes a mid pipe where the cats are where the first set of cats are on the stock pipe...like theyre located before the bend parallel to the bottom of the floor pan..i just cant remember the name

 

for me....$90...mustang magic of bayshore, long island

 

i havent scraped anything and ive been up speed bumps and im getting a 1.5inch drop....but i also have the race pipes in

 

im def. goin with the slp cuz i like the fact that later when i do get LT headers(after or when i buy some new heads) ii wont have to buy a new mid pipe.

Another question i have is any one know the name of the tool that cuts valve reliefs in the pistons? just for future reference for when i get some crazy cams

 

yeah... it's usually a very expensive Sonnen CNC mill. Not something you do in a garage.

 

i read in i think MM&FF a while ago where they had a kit what had a thing that you put on a drill that allowed you to do it at home and they explained how to do it. they did it on a NPI engine to but of course i have lost that mag

 

no using a drill as a mill... that's a neato redneck way of doing things but I wouldn't and my whole online persona is r3dn3ck...leave it to the machine shop.

 

haha x-pipes....


ANyhow the best advice i can give is get under your car and spray those bolts for the manifold to the stock h with some kind of penatrating lube. Do it 2 times before you try to take those bolts off. On older cars like yours if it has never come off before they will be rusted on really really good. And the extra 5 mins it takes you to spray them will possibly save you from breaking the stud off.

 

around here swapping midpipes costs about $40

 

people call me special ed and i got it done in 30 minutes. took longer to jack the f'n car up. "huge jack lowered mustang makes you scratch the head"

i hate the adjustable magnaflow tips they come loose all the time and one pipe melted the bumper pretty bad.

 

Hot Rod Magazine did something similar w/ an LS1. Basically, they took the heads off and using a spare that they cut to fit only one cylinder, they attached a valve shaped cutter and vaccums to the ports. However, this can be done with stock heads, just after every cut, you have to take the heads off and put the cutter in the next valve location. You might save on labor but it'll take longer than paying a machine shop.