Dropping the K
#1
Dropping the K
Ok I need t install headers and take my springs out and cut them so im going to have to drop the k member so how hard is it? And what is needed to lower it? thanks
#3
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Originally Posted by MattJ
Kmember is HEAVY. I was struggling with my mechanic dropping mine from a lift. Its easily 300+ pounds. You have to support your engine from the top when you drop your kmember
got that off MT. ya weak bastard. LOL
#4
Well the kmember alone, yes. but if you are installing headers, you leave your entire front suspention connected. Theres no sense in taking everything off to lighten it up. Shocks, control arms, ball joints, tie rods, all that should still be on and its pretty damn heavy when its all still connected with the kmember.
#5
MM makes a brace that allows you to support the engine from the top. leaving the suspension attached as much as possible will make it quicker but MUCH heavier.
Don't cut your springs. They're not stiff enough to keep you from bottoming the k-member on the ground over large bumps. If you want it lower and don't want the ride to suffer too much try FRPP B springs. Voice of experience here...
Don't cut your springs. They're not stiff enough to keep you from bottoming the k-member on the ground over large bumps. If you want it lower and don't want the ride to suffer too much try FRPP B springs. Voice of experience here...
#6
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
Maximum Motorsports makes a brace that allows you to support the engine from the top. leaving the suspension attached as much as possible will make it quicker but MUCH heavier.
Don't cut your springs. They're not stiff enough to keep you from bottoming the k-member on the ground over large bumps. If you want it lower and don't want the ride to suffer too much try FRPP B springs. Voice of experience here...
Don't cut your springs. They're not stiff enough to keep you from bottoming the k-member on the ground over large bumps. If you want it lower and don't want the ride to suffer too much try FRPP B springs. Voice of experience here...
#7
#8
If you go too far lowering the front you risk making the car handle very poorly. I'm sure you know that already but thought I'd ad it just in case. If you have the spring isolators on there, I'd start by pulling them and see how you like the stance then. At least that way you don't have to cut springs.
#9
Originally Posted by faststangbk
I already have steedas but im cutting an inch and a half off the front ones to make the stance perfect because it sits up to high in front
which ones? if they're steeda comps dont cut that much off... cut 3/4" at most. mine are cut and i've had no problems and love the stance. i have steeda comps which are the same as frpp c springs.
#10
Originally Posted by floppy
which ones? if they're steeda comps dont cut that much off... cut 3/4" at most. mine are cut and i've had no problems and love the stance. i have steeda comps which are the same as frpp c springs.
#11
I've always cut at the top. The bottom is normally keyed to the LCA or flattened in some way so it's never seemed like a good idea to cut there. In my experience 1/2 to 3/4 of a coil provides nearly a full inch of drop. It depends on the spring design but that's normally a good place to start.
#12
Originally Posted by faststangbk
So are you suppose to cut the top of the spring or the bottom...Im going to try 3/4" first
definitely cut the top...
just remember cutting 1 coil is equal to a 1 inch drop... when you cut the front springs cut 3/4 of a coil first and see how you like it. but make sure you drive the car around for at least a couple mins to let the front come down all the way due to the independent suspension. because when you first cut it and put the car back on the ground it will be 1-2 inches higher than it will actually sit.
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Mirage775
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02-16-2007 07:34 AM