I was out today and I sprayed it in 2nd an 3rd gear on the street. It started sliding because I wasnt getting any traction. But it didnt really slide one way or the other it just kinda skated down the road left to right.......

I saw a cobra do this at an 1/8th mile track down here and he slammed into the guardrail, totaling the 03 cobra! It was his first run. I have a feeling that mine will try to do the same thing when I go here soon. If I put some 315/35/17's on the back, will that cure the problem? Would control arms help more than the tires? I wanna keep it going straight down the track.:wallbash:

 

Nothing will beat the tires......think about it stop the spinning at the source your spinning because you dont have anything that will hold the power

 

How's that blower search coming? You still going that route?

 

Yea im just not sure if the car is planting the tires hard enough. The back end just feels like its floating around and the tires spin like mad. I think that its planting them good because the front end rises up pretty good and the back squats hard.......

 

Yea well I definately have 2 possible buyers if I want to sell it. I just dont know if its worth it to trade my whole setup for just a blower head unit.....

I really need opinions on this. I want a blower partly because I think the power would be softer on the engine. Even though I really do think that my kit is really safe and all. I like the sound and I got screwd when I bought an 03 cobra last year and They took the car back after they lied and said i would get financed. I was just 20 then. So they couldnt find anyone that would finance a 20 year old with a 400hp mustang cobra with no co-signer....... I really miss the boost, cause that car was so much fun to drive i loved it! So since I cant have the cobra im puttin a vortech on my GT....

It will take me until May before I can put the blower on it cause Ill have to buy the brackets and pipes. I need opinions....

 

I would definately do a blower.

I would be able to get one too towards the end of summer, but I've decided to stay safer on the car with mild cams and couple more bolt ons.

I'm just gonna build my block and put on a 2.2KB in a few years. Once this summer is over, I'm done modding the car until im settled down more with a house/carreer/etc. Should be in 2 years. Then do the block, etc.

 

wait until you go down the track with 26"-28" slicks.

 

Bro you're going to need slicks. But if you want some street traction yea 315's will help. Don't get cheap tires though because that will defeat the purpose. As far as control arms go Mega Bite Jr's and Maximum Motorsports are both great arms. The Mega Bites are usually used more often for drag racing so do some homework on that.

 

if you allready have deep dish or wider rims then yeah get those big meats, otherwise just get some 275/40/17 Nitto 555r drag radials and call it a day i love my daily traction i get.

 

I would love to do that also.. represent the 2v power. but have you quoted prices for that??? I guess it really depends on what route you go but with what I got prices for I was spending $14k lol.. you'd be able to take most cobras at that price though

 

Yea, thats why I said at least 2-3 years down the road!! haha. The car I have now I will have for a long long time, maybe forever. This will be my lifelong hobby/get a way type thing. By know mean do I expect this to be done soon, lol. I'll proabably be 40 and still working on it!

The only thing I do know is that it will be much more into a show car than a drag car, a car I can cruise around in on sunny weekends hearing the whine of a KB:clap:

 

I'd address the suspension before you go too wild with tire selection. My logic (feel free to disagree) is that you'll only realize how inferior the suspension is to your need by using the tire you want good results from and optimizing your suspension till you get at least somewhere near the traction you want.

I don't know if MM is the best source for drag race since they concentrate on corner carving mostly. In any case, you need to jack up the back end a tad (weight jacker RLCA's), remove the front sway bar or loosen it a good bit, get the right shocks and struts on it to get your nose up and plant the rear, and put an air bag inside the passenger side spring (eibach sells them I think with their drag pack).

You should also look at stiffening the chassis with a cage and subframe connectors.

After that, then you can stick the best tires you can find on there and know that you'll have better traction from the get-go and better traction still from the upgraded meats you choose to use.

I'd expect some disagreement but that's my recommendation.

Another thought that crossed my mind... have you considered using a longer line from your nitrous solenoid to the nozzle? Longer lines make the hit softer (from what I'm told...), shorter lines make it hit harder. Just a little change in the sudden-ness of the hit could help your traction issues.

 

Well I still plan on putting MM coilovers on the front and rear sometime in the future. I definately dont want to jack the rear up. I dont want a drag setup. I just wanna keep it going straight when im puttin down the power. So far people have told me that the frame is twisting and thats why its throwing the cars weight from side to side...... I think subframes may help the twisting???? If I take the front swaybar off im gonna add bodyroll into the equation. Zig-Zagging down the track with bad body roll will cause a bad wreck.

If I put subframes on it and put some 26 inch slicks on it, do you think it would stay alot straighter? I will just have stock shocks on it until I get the coilovers.........

 

loosening the front sway bar won't add body roll in 1/4 mile action and is reversable at the track with 1 wrench and 10 minutes. It will help your 60' times in all likelihood. Frame twist is a little of it, but not enough to matter... you just want to keep the frame rigid so only the suspension steers the car which makes subframes a foundation mod to build on. Tail wiggle is a natural tendency of big hp/tq in short wheelbase cars and you only get to fix that by causing weight transfer to happen smoothly and to the rear and keeping both wheels turning. Subframes will help keep the torque energy focused at the tires and not the body but only so much until you address the rubber bushings in your suspension. A cage will help more and is pretty cheap insurance against serious injury. No bolt in subs or cage...weld em'.

I'd also look into a harder core diff like the PowerTrax locker or an Auburn. If you get a little clutch slip in the diff on one side that's instant traction differential and will cause some squirly behavior.

Jacking the rear up with rear coil overs takes about 5 minutes and your bare hands. Weight jacker type RLCA's allow you to lower it back down to street height when you're done racing just the same..usually with a 1/2" drive ratchet so you can have your cake and eat it too.

I think you'll break something if you put slicks on it. Just a hunch, no real reason.

Your shocks aren't so much a problem as the struts... they need to be biased to rebound so you get the nose up quicker.

Again... this is mostly a guess. I'd have to drive your car to understand how it feels and where the slip is coming in. The basic problem is that your nitrous hits and the thing loses traction, so a 2 stage hit might also solve it... 50 in the first hit and 1000rpm later another 50. I can barely keep my car from spinning the tires on a hard 1-2 shift and I chirp them good slamming into 3rd, so if I added a 100hp really sudden like, I'd expect to break traction and skittle around a bit.

 

I was thinking about putting a nitrous controller on it. Just something that builds from like a 50 shot to a 100 shot in a couple seconds. I heard that they wear out the solenoids though......Im prolly gonna keep the nitrous for a while and I may put some race solenoids on it (lightning NX series). I cant really have like a normal dual stage because I have the plate setup...... unless I wanted to run a 50 shot through the plate and add a shark nozzle to the intake pipe that adds another 50hp. I have heard that that is a dangerous idea though.........

 

Progressive controllers beat the hell out of the solenoids and eventually they'll stick open. No bwaynoh. A stuck open nitrous solenoid is a blown motor on a stick.

What about just pulling the plate, removing the spray bar, tapping both sides for conventional fogger nozzles and using two down facing nozzles plumbed right into it, then reattach it. That will open back up the air path into your lower plenum (which is bisected now by a bigazz spray bar) and improve power on it's own though not too much.

Just a thought...

 

Oh no the plate has become basically my lover lately. I love how the plate pulls all the way to the redline and its running real safe with it. I wont ever take it off. You do have a good idea though. The only problem I would see is that when the system is just spraying a single stage then the spray would be pointing towars ONE side of the intake manifold. That means that some cylinders would get more spray than others. Thats gotta be a bad thing. When they are both spraying I wouldnt really see a problem but I think ill just keep the plate. Are there nitrous controllers out there that will allow me to spray JUST in certain gears for a stick shift? Maybe I can launch while N/A then When I hit second itll have more chance of getting traction since im already moving......

 

I'm not saying remove the plate... just pull it long enough to mod it. You could rig up a small switch to close only in 3rd and 4th gears if you have a shifter with adjustable stops.. simply attach the micro switch to the stops and figure out a way to wire it up (should be hella simple).

I'm pretty certain that any good fogger nozzle will inundate the lower plenum with enough nitrous for both halves so I can't see how that would be a problem even with 2 of them. It's like running the original intake spacer that had a nitrous port on one side... except it's on both sides and runs on 2 separate switches. The first stage should prime the second stage and feed the first, the second stage will only come on when you hit the second switch.

Still... you can get a window switch that will help... perhaps set the shot to go at a higher rpm so you have a chance to build some tire speed before the shot hits...

 

that cobra probably wasnt lined up in the groove of the track, along with knowing when to lift off the pedal. If the car start getting lose then lift a lil then get back in it, but you should be alright on a good tire and lined up in the groove.

 

Man I never even though of putting a microswitch on the shifter! Thats a good idea. Theres only one problem, seems like if you put the microswitch in one spot for one particular gear....then it wont spray in the other gears.

I have my window switch set to come on at 3000 and cut off at 5800. I like that combo really well since I have no lag between gears but it roasts the tires. I may try putting something like a 3400 pill in it but I dont want to have some "nitrous delay" when I shift the gears...... Ill just take some different RPM pills with me to the track and try them all out to see what gives the best traction on spray. It may even be beneficial for others.....