i have a hellion turbo, with a level 10 transmission {auto} with their tq. converter

 

your tranny can take some wicked launches but can your clutch and rear end? Have you done any work to the suspension? Does that tranny have a trans-brake attached? What RPM does the converter stall at? Is the car actually a 07 Shelby or just a GT? Any other mods done? Tuned?

You should launch at the highest RPM that you can while getting the best 60' times. So, if you spin violently launching from 3000rpm and end up with 2.1sec 60's then drop the rpm till the wheel spin is no longer lengthening your times. Some guys have to flash it from idle, some can wind it up... depends on the car, the track, the tires and the day.

<azz chewing for t3h n00bz)
Lastly, Search and be more detailed with the background info. Questions put like this one only make people mad. You're asking a very technically challenging question to correctly answer but giving us exactly zero detail in the places it matters. We're as likely at this point to give BS advice as good due to lack of detail. </azz chewing>

 

http://www.levelten.com/store/ford/p...tang_94_up.htm
The stage 3 is my tranny
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
The mod 900 is my short block
No suspension work
The car is a G.T. I wanted to build my own fast mustang not buy someone else's.
And I am not trying to **** anyone off.
Last night the car ran a 2 day best of 13.11.
I want to be in the low 12's on street tires.
Thanks for any help

 

that's better. Now we can work at it a bit. What kind of boost are you making? Any dyno numbers?

First, see about disconnecting the front sway bar. that's gunna help get weight on the rear tires and keep the spinning down. Other than that...you're not far. I'd say experiment withe the sway bar and higher RPM launches.

Post up some timeslip action so we can see where you're losing the time. With a good turbo you should have the power for at least mid 12's on mild boost. After that, replacing the stock seats with lightweight racing seats can gain you .1-.2 on your ET's by weight reduction alone. The stock seats are pretty heavy and every 100lbs is supposedly worth .1.

Skinny's up front is another option that will help. They weigh considerably less and have less rolling friction. Apart from all that... pull out your spare and jack.

You're really close but 12 flat requires nearly 500hp on a 3800lb car and great traction. With 450hp and a 3800lb ride you can easily see mid 12's. Download a program called Virtual Engine Calculator. It'll help you figure out what the absolute requirements are (based on the math of the matter) and then you can work your technique to match the delivery. All you're trying to do is make as much power hit the pavement as you can without overpowering the tires for about 12 consecutive seconds.

i totally understand building your own... you should see what I've done so far hehe. You're really close but I think you're probably going to need to dial in a couple pounds more boost almost no matter what.

BTW... 13.11 @ what speed? I need the speed to build the simulation.

 

Best run
reaction .6189
60 ft. 2.1093
330 ft. 5.4955
1/8 mile 8.3877 @ 84.54
1000 ft. 10.9260
1/4 mile 13.1078 @ 103.81

Boost is set for relief at 11.4 #s
i want this car to be a sleeper car.
So please keep that in mind.
from the outside I want it to look totally stock
Thanks for the help

 

Dyno on the break in tune 439 rwhp

 

you're going to need more boost, fatter gears or proper weight reduction. If you're still on stock gears go drop a set of 3.73's or 4.10's in it. I'd up the boost to a solid 14lbs and go for it.

In any case, for all the power you're making the speed seems kinda low. You may want to have the tune adjusted for higher RPM shifts... if possible with your turbo setup.

 

Am i missing something? That much power etc.....the car should be in the low 12's if not 11's. Not trying to be a wise-guy, but I think I am not following completely.

 

Tomorrow the car goes back to the turner
Boost will be turned up.

Thanks for your input

 

he's got a lot of power yes, but he's in a car that starts at about 3600lbs. Add him, you've got 3800lbs. My simulator says he should be looking for 500bhp for bottom 12's toting 3800 down the road. I always add a little power requirement when street tires are in play cuz you lose out on short times with them over drag radials or slicks.

The low trap speed is what concerns me the most.. with 400+rwhp and bottom 13's at 103 he's got to be heavy or seeing sloppy shifts. I can't believe that the level 10 tranny would be that sloppy so add some boost to get him where he wants to be and then let him work on seeing those mid-11's when his skillz with this car come up to par. I'd put a lot of attention to tuning the shift points and line pressures but auto's aren't my bag and I'd certainly point to someone more familiar with them in a drag race use case than me. I'll stick with my rowboat tranny.

 

Thanks for that input.
I know 1 way for sure to speed this thing up, I weight 257# I will start my diet tomorrow. my goal 200# by 08

 

So, 04 Cobra Cast Iron Block, Hellion Turbo, that tranny, and its running only low 13's? Well if thats true, then i give up working on my car. haha.

 

I said it is on a break in tune.
I don't think putting in a new short block then dynoing max power is a great idea.
Creeping up on it is the way to go.
So what proof do you want?
Receipt on motor, me standing on one foot.
I know alot of people get on the web and brag.
I don't think to many get one here and claim low # and slow e.t.'s to brag.
As far as working on motors well jms did the work.
They are the guys that do the research for sct. The owner of sct is 1/2 owner of jms
The owner of sct is Chris. Chris dynoed my car

 

Dude, nobody's doubting ya or saying your giving false info, They're just working through your original question trying to figure how you can get better 60' times and ETs and it seems they're saying more power, better traction and more seat time.
This message board is ripe with sarcasm and quick witty remarks, plz don't get offended so quickly, believe me, there's plenty of time in the future for that.

 

k

 

What he said.....

Mustangs are a funny thing and drivers are even funnier. I have a friend with an 05 Mustang. He started with the bolt-ons and then threw on a Super Charger. The car ran 12.6. He then took out the blower, worked on the suspension and the car now runs 12.89.....no blower.

I have seen stock -03 - '04 Cobras run mid 12's and I have seen them run mid-13's......because of the driver.

There are a lot of ways to make a car fast, but they all involve either adding power, pulling weight, or making the car transform the power to ther road better.....or you do all three.

I think Colin (Redneck) is right on the money. Your trap is suspect. Generally speaking the trap speed is a direct function of how much hp you are making. So, while the dyno says one thing, the car is saying something else. If the dyno was done properly, then I would suspect something transmission related.

 

Well I will try to understand what your saying and apply it, thanks

 

I didn't mean to start a big ol fracas. The amount of power you're making normally lends itself to a particular range of trap speeds. I could see 103 if you let off at the 1100ft area but I can't see that as it's something mostly done by stick drivers over-anticipating the need to get on the brakes for the trip to the return lane.

At this point you're doing great and making plenty of power. Whittle dat chubby but o' yours down 75lbs or so and just keep practicing.

 

Ya the diet started today.
My turner also said for my hp my trap at 102 is to slow.
I forgot to bring my slips from the drag strip with me. So i will be getting him that info today

 

I wonder if he is running out of fuel up top.

 

There is a super pump in the tank