Alrighty.. So I was curious if any of you could tell me what sort of hp/tq this engine might be putting out (it has not been dynoed since it was rebuilt/modded.) It is an older 302 carb motor with the following mods:


302 Bored .040 over with forged flat top pistons
Edelbrock Victor JR. heads with 2.05 int. and 1.60 exh.
Edelbrock Super Victor intake
ProForm 750 Race Series carb
Trick Flow Specialties Hyd. Roller cam with lift of .574 / .595 and a duration of 298 / 310
Harland Sharp Roller Rockers
MSD Billet Distributor and MSD 6 Ignition Box
CSR Electric Water Pump
Hooker Super Comp headers with 3 inch exhaust

Any help is appreciated

 

Ok.. Now I feel like an idiot. I don't know why I posted this here when we have an entire forum devoted to 5.0L engines . Could one of the mods please move it over to the aforementioned forum?

 

moved. You can call that a drag strip setup. Top end will be quite nice but the car will almost certainly have a little lag on the low end. I did a dyno sim for you and it should make peak power around 7500rpm and would be a total DOG below 3500rpm. I mean... it could easily make 400 at the tires NA but it's going to be un-*******-streetable. And don't try to start it when it's cold out.

 

Hmm.. What would I have to change to make it a streetable car? Cam.. intake.. or a combo of certain things? It was technically being built for drag racing (roll cage, fuel cell, etc.,) but I don't think it would ever see the track if I bought it. FWIW, it also has a Street Fighter C4 trans with a Street Fighter 3800 stall converter. There is a set of Richmond 4.62 gears included with the car, but I doubt I would ever install them. In addition to those things, it also has a wide *** set of Mickey Thompson "Street" drag radials out back, and a set of skinnys up front.

 

I don't have any relevant information to share, but damn! let's see some pics!

 

eh.. It's not much to look at right now. It needs to have both rear quarter panels replaced, and it needs to be painted.

 

I spent a little while on desktop dyno for you. You owe me big time.

You'll need either a 351 bottom end or a half inch stroker kit for the 302 bottom end, a high flow dual plane intake (edelbrock performer RPM air gap #7521 for example), and a cam at around 240deg duration and closer to .550 lift. That'll shift the power peak from 8K rpm to around 6200rpm and instead of an estimated 200lbs of tq at 2K rpm there's closer to 380lbs at 2k.

Basically that motor is set up for really high rpm via small cylinders and big flow. You need to have more cylinder to make it street worthy. It'll be a sick ******' motor though.

 

Here ya go.. Here's a picture of the engine bay>
And I appreciate the info r3d.. Would I still end up with a decent result if I just changed the cam and intake? I really have no desire to crack into a freshly rebuilt engine to replace the internals.

 

What year is that?

 

'69

 

you never told me it was a pre-73 car. Slaps you

 

What is that supposed to mean? Here's a rear quarter shot for you>
http://i14.ebayimg.com/08/i/001/56/15/4831_3.JPG
You can see the damage that needs to be repaired. Shouldn't be too bad, as long as the torque boxes haven't rotted out. The rest of the car is really solid though, since it was originally a Cali car.

 

that rust is pretty severe in places. Everything can be fixed I guess.

pre-73's are classics (just because I thought the 73 looked a little much like an LTD). You spoke of a motor and didn't even ******' mention that you were grabbing up a fixer-upper classic. I saw the 60's era shock tower braces and went all open jaw'd.

 

It was a Cali car, so the only major rust damage on the car is around the rear wheel wells. There are some minor surface spots in a few other places on the car, but that's it. It is a complete car with a good interior (with the exception of the driver seat, which needs to be reupholstered. Most of it was removed from the car though for the cage install. Cage needs to be painted before it can be put back in. I was thinking of using brush on bedliner rather than normal paint, because I've heard more than one guy bitch about scratching the bars by the doors when you're getting in and out. I don't know.. I'm talking with the Mustang Restorations in Dundee to get an estimate on the repairs. Just emailed them some pics to take a look at. We'll see what they say.. My body shop quoted me $12,000 over the phone to replace both rear panels, and give the car a paint job. There's no way I'm going to pay that much though. So if the restoration place quotes a really high number as well, I'll have to figure something else out.

 

LOL. Man am I glad that I talked to that restoration shop. They quoted me $2000.00 parts and labor to replace both rear quarters, with an additional $400 or so if the outer wheelwells need to be replaced as well. That's a hell of a lot better than $12k.

 

Thats good news. Are you going to get it then?

 

Probably not. The guy told me today that his reserve is $7500 . I don't think I would pay more than $5k, considering the amount of work that it needs.

 

Hmm.. I found a cheap '69 with a 351 in my area. Body is solid, but the engine and trans both need to be rebuilt. That one seems like a better option.