First i am new to the mustang world this is my first one. I have a 95 gt convertable with the 5.0 and a 5 speed tranny. i am wanting to build it to be a quick street car and a decent track car. The guy i bought it off of claims the engine was bored 50 over and has a mild cam in it. i use claim bc i ran it at the local strip and ran a 13.2 1000ft and a 10.82 1/8th i think it should have been faster. and yes i know that i need more wheel time with the car, but was expecting a better baseline numbers. things i do have planned right now are sub-frame connectors (full length weld in) and gears in the rear (cant decide on 3.55 or 3.73) every thing esle is a very big hazy area and would love input on what to do to get the performace i want. any suggestions welcomed!

 

grab up a freebie 5.0 block and build it up. I like the edelbrock power packages heads, cam, intake all in one box.

For gears 3.73 is your monkey. 3.55's are for guys like me with excessive tq production at low RPM. You'll want more gear. 4.10's are about it.

Nitrous works wonders.

If it's pulling 10 second 1/8ths then the motor is down on power by about half. I'm going to doubt the cam and definitely going to doubt the .050 overbore. Probably a .040 over which makes it a 308 IIRC. Start with a teardown.

 

That's in the works to have the head taken off and actually checking the bore I just want to have an idea about what to have when I put it back together I don't like having to tear down and put back together with stock parts just to tear down again. If I take the heads off new ones or better ones are going back on.

 

And the gears I am really leaning to the 3.73 but was hoping some one had or was thinking of a similar set up and recomend gears but that takes you to the age long debate on gears. I know I don't want to go to 4.10.

 

Yeah about the packages I have seen them but I have seen some people not liking thier track heat set up? Could you enlighten me?

 

Trick flow makes the track heat. Track heat is a race oriented setup, not really a street grade part. I'd probably stay off the really hot setups for the same reason people end up not liking the track heat, it's too much. You lose low end grunt and end up with a really high strung engine. You can reasonably make about 350-400rwhp on a 5L and not have it be too ratty to deal with as a DD but after that you start sacrificing a lot of one thing to get just a little of another.

You can have a lot of fun with street oriented kits from Holley, Edelbrock, TFS, etc... Holley's SysteMax II is pretty badass: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-300-501-1/

Trickflow makes a good street setup: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-K514-350-370 that has great power potential and good tq production

Edelbrock makes plenty of parts but you'll probably like a combo like their new RPM-XT heads and a performerRPM intake and a good stage 2 cam that I'll let the pushrod guys spec for you.

 

A 10.82 is deep in the 15's in a 1/4 mile. That car is stock as a rock. You should have asked what pistons are in it to see him trip over his tongue.
SN95's are heavy. Convertibles are even worse. A 4.10 in a 95 is like a 3.73 in a Fox body. At least go with a 3.73. A 4.10 really isn't that much more but you'll be happy with a 3.73. If the car still has stock gears, it most likely has never had so much as a valve cover bolt removed, much less a .050 overbore and a cam.
The best out of the box small block Ford heads are Air Flow Research (AFR). Just throw the AFR rocker arm studs in the trash and order a set of ARP studs. The first two of ten engines I built with these heads broke a stud. Didn't take that chance again.
The Edelbrock packages are nice too and I have always preferred their intakes. I think the best package deal for a DD though, is the Trick Flow package mentioned by r3dn3ck. I wasn't all that impressed by the last Systemax kit that I installed. Until I stuck on Procharger on the guy's car two months later. The intake is ok. The lower is basically just a stock truck lower intake with a port job. But, it's on par with the track heat if you don't want to go that big. And as far as making 400 RWHP, stock late model 302 blocks are really being stressed around 400 flywheel hp without a girdle. The main caps WILL walk at that level and reliability is going down. 350 rwhp is pushing it.

 

Ok that's great stuff I think if I was to put a number to it 350 to 400 hp to the rear would be nice. Now on the part of keeping it dd I am willing to sacrifice on that side due to having three other modes of transportation that are fairly reliable. Now is what you calling a gurdle the same as a "k" member?? Remeber I am really still learning and trying to figure out what is what on the car.

 

I'm talking about a main stud girdle. It's a brace that bolts on to all the main caps of the engine block, stiffening your engine's bottom end and reducing flex. Check it out here. http://www.dssracing.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=6
If you aren't really trying to make a mild ride, I'd go with the AFR 185 heads, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake or equivalent, and a Comp Cams Xtreme Energy cam like the XE276 or a Ford Racing X cam. With a cam having that much lift and the 2.02" valves in theses heads, make sure you have the piston to valve clearance checked if you plan on putting this on your current engine. (If it does have stock pistons in it and isn't bored out.) Here's AFR's website with dyno results on the 165 heads which will bolt on to a stock bottom end. http://www.airflowresearch.com/sbf-c-78.html
The 185's will make considerably more power. And go with at least a 70mm throttle body and 24# or 30# injectors with a 255 l.p.h. fuel pump. This combo really wouldn't be bad to drive everyday. Just don't expect to beat a Honda at the pump.
And if you ever decide to add a blower, it will all do fine(except the injectors).