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Removing A-arms, harder than it looks?

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  #1  
Old 12-29-2008, 05:54 PM
01FR500's Avatar
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Default Removing A-arms, harder than it looks?

I've been out in the garage removing the A-arms so I can go get the balljoints pressed and have the Steeda X2 balljoints pressed in. I was wondering if anyone's got any tips or things to watch out for while removing the A-arms. I just got done with one side and while I was taking a break I thought I should probably ask. I figure there is not a lot to mess up while unbolting everything, just gotta torque everything down correctly when putting it all back together. I wish I had got some urethane bushings now since they are already out, also a bumpsteer kit.

So like a spring install, but a little bit more?
I couldn't get the spindle off the balljoint. I am just going to take them the whole A-arm and spindle and let them take it off. Just $50 to get both balljoints pressed in.
 
  #2  
Old 12-29-2008, 07:10 PM
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Well it's all off now. I did learn that you should remove the balljoint nut before you remove the whole A-arm. I thought I would be smart this time and not even try to remove the spindle, so I didn't try to remove the balljoint nut. Well after the whole A-arm and spindle was off I figured I should take off the nut so I wouldn't give the guys at the shop a chance to loose it. There is nothing to get leverage on, the spindle just moves around all the while bending the brake shields. Although I don't care about the brake shields as they will be getting replaced with air ducts.

So, still looking for advice, things I should do. I'm thinking about painting them black. I need to clean them in the morning so might as well spray some paint on'em.
 
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Old 12-29-2008, 10:30 PM
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The only bit of advice I'd say is move the rack to get to the front bolts. I would say remove the spindles to be nice but you already took everything off so I doubt you want to put everything back together to do it (unless you have the c-clamp style tool and not pickle forks). However, to get the nut off, just put the arm back w/ the bolts in (nuts aren't needed) and you should be fine then to take the nut off. But yes, it's essentially the same as a spring install, just a few more parts have to come off.
 
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Old 12-30-2008, 03:40 PM
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I couldn't get the spindle off the balljoint.
Get a big hammer and beat it like it owes you money.
 
  #5  
Old 12-30-2008, 06:57 PM
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Hahaha, I did try that, for like a minute. I've got everything put back together now. I haven't driven the car yet so I don't know if the X2 balljoints have made any noticable difference. Hopefully they really do improve the roll center and it will become evident in my AutoX times. Panhard bar tomorrow, maybe. I'm tired of working on the car.
 
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Old 12-30-2008, 07:08 PM
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ball joints would drop your autox times?
 
  #7  
Old 12-30-2008, 08:42 PM
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In a way. Since my car is lowered with the SuperSports, the front roll center is technically below ground, it is supposed to be around 2 inches above ground. The lower the front roll center, the more a car will understeer. The Steeda X2 ball joint help raise the roll center be rasing the spindle. So if I can steer the car better, then I could possibly reduce my AutoX times and be more competative.

http://www.miracerros.com/mustang/t_rollcenter.htm
 
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