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#1 (permalink) |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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I'm looking into doing some rear control arms on my car. The car doesn't see the track hardly at all, so I don't need anything real aggressive. I guess I have a few ?'s. If I do lower control arms, which is what I'm looking at doing, should I do the uppers as well? Or can I get away with just lowers? Also, should I buy adjustable's or non adjustables? And if I were to do adjustable lowers, would I have to do adjustable uppers or could I do just do the regular uppers? Finally, what brands do you guys recommend? I was looking at the black powdercoated ones on AmericanMuscle's website but they don't say a brand, so I don't know what to think of them. I don't know much about suspension beyond shock/struts and springs so thanks in advance for any help!
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Why do you want lca's?
You DO NOT NEED to do uppers just because you do lowers. Adjustable vs. non adjustable depends on what you want. For you Id say non adjustable is fine. Just because you do adjustable lowers DOES NOT mean you have to do adjustable uppers. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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I'm wanting to get rid of the quad shocks (plus they need replacing and thought it would be a good time to look into control arms). I don't want to just take them off without beefing up the control arms a little.
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Well the MM adjustables will let you adjust the ride height 1" down and 2" up. If you think thats something youd want then get it, if not then dont. But those are the ones Im running.
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#5 (permalink) |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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Honestly, the rear sits fine the way it is. I definitely don't want it raised anymore than it is, so I guess non adjustables may be a better route. Any brands that I should steer away from? I here granatelli is not the great...
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#6 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Besides Granatelli, not really. MMRLCA-5 are the best ones for you.
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#7 (permalink) |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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How about the UPR Pro Street Chrome Moly U/L Control arms? The full kit is cheaper than the price of the MM lowers. Is MM high on their prices or is the UPR kit just a cheap, you get what you pay for kind of deal?
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#8 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Yep, you get what you pay for. MM has great quality.
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#9 (permalink) |
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jjtgiants
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Dublin, CA
Posts: 3,705
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Good questions.....I'm wanting to do some LCA's also and I was looking at possibly getting UPR's cause they are a bit cheaper.....I just know you usually get what you pay for so I'll wait to hear peoples opinions on the UPR set up
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#10 (permalink) |
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Broke Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 107
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I'm going to jump in on this one because suspension definately isn't my strong point. I already have 18x10 Saleens, but have been told I can't go wider than a 285 tire w/ quad shocks. I've been told I can just flip them, but I've also been told their s***t and should replace my control arms. If someone more knowledgeable is willing to explain in a little more detail than "upr's are cheap" (which is good advice, don't get me wrong), I prefer to understand what I'm getting into, and I can't wait to shove 315 drag radials in the wheel well.
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97 Triple Black Cobra Convertible wanted to buy: 17x8 wheels for an 01 V6 |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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Quad shocks stop wheel hop. You can remove the quad shocks, but you might get wheel hop, to cure that you need good lca's.
I cant comment on the quality of UPR's. But with poor quality arms you can bust bushings, get lots of noise, etc. You guys considering UPR stuff should do a search on other boards such as Modular Depot, Modular Powerhouse, and Modularmisfits. 97_Cobra_Droptop- your catback might even get in the way of your 315's. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Administrator
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 6,366
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I have UPR's. Lots of guys I know with fast mustangs run them. They are in my opinion a best bang for the buck control arm. You can't adjust them, but a really fine device.
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![]() Black 2000 GT Vert: Novi-2000 with Intercooler (375rwhp @ 9 psi); Tune by Kauffmans; Roush 380R Body kit; Steeda Subframes; Steeda Strut Tower Support; Deep Dish Bullets; FRPP 4:10's; SCT 4 Position Chip with four custom tunes; Steeda CAI; C&L Pleum; BBK 75 TB; SLP Loudmouth; SLP Catted X-Pipe; Bullitt Suspension; UPR Conrol Arms; Focus Fuel Pump My Car My Email |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Broke Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 107
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Still stock exhaust, and I'll work around the tires when I upgrade. I plan on doing a full rebuild w/low compression and either twin turbos or a kenne bell. Trying to do wheels, tires, brakes, suspension, etc. first, ridiculous power last. Current Mods: K&N air filter, springs, wheels/tires. Thats all.
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97 Triple Black Cobra Convertible wanted to buy: 17x8 wheels for an 01 V6 |
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
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#15 (permalink) |
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Broke Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: MN
Posts: 107
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Taking notes.
I'm probably completely off here, but.... On Maximum motorsports website they explain the quadshocks are for wheel hop. Lower control arms + Panhard bar + torque arm would eliminate the quadshocks? Like their just not there? does a coil over replace quad shocks or is that unrelated? (told you suspension wasn't my thing) Quadshocks and exhaust aside, anything else hamper 315's? Not trying to hi-jack the post, just expanding and learning. Thanks for the advice, please keep it coming.
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97 Triple Black Cobra Convertible wanted to buy: 17x8 wheels for an 01 V6 |
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#16 (permalink) | ||
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Quote:
Nope. |
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#17 (permalink) |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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My car is only putting around 260 hp or so and it won't get a SC or nos anytime soon, so bushings should be ok for me. One of my concerns is noise too. I don't want something that is going to squeak, creak, etc. I have a popping noise back there already, usually when I go slow and hit a dip or something in the road which drives me nuts. I'm also hoping to eliminate that by installing control arms, but that may or may not go away. I hate noises, and my car seems to come up with a new one every week! I haven't found many reviews on the upr's but the few that I have had good things to say about them. Still kinda torn on what to think of them though.
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#18 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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I dont get any noise with my MM's, or Steeda's for that matter. However, I have a feeling both will be up for sale soon with that awesome sale Wolfe is having.
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#19 (permalink) | |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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Quote:
Steeda has Chrome Moly control arms just like upr so I would think the upr would be a good quality arms as well but who knows.
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#20 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
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MM's paid about $380 for them, so probably like $270 shipped. These are the HD adjustable ones http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=524. For the Steedas I paid about $170, so probably like $150 shipped. http://www.steeda.com/products/hd_ad...ntrol_arms.php Part #555-4100. They would include everything, and I dont have any problems with either.
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#21 (permalink) | |
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35th Anniversary GT
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Evansville, IN
Posts: 422
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Quote:
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#22 (permalink) | |
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
With adjustable lowers and coil overs in the front you can adjust instant center. http://www.mustangboards.com/mustang...r-control.html |
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#23 (permalink) |
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blank
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Jersey
Posts: 1,397
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Go with the MM pieces. Believe me, the difference in cornoring is substantial and wheel hop in most cases doesn't exist. If you are looking for other options, the pieces from Global have the same bushing set-up (just reversed so the poly bushing is on the axle side rather than the chassis side).
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