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Old 11-15-2006, 02:21 PM
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Default ? about rear control arms

I'm looking into doing some rear control arms on my car. The car doesn't see the track hardly at all, so I don't need anything real aggressive. I guess I have a few ?'s. If I do lower control arms, which is what I'm looking at doing, should I do the uppers as well? Or can I get away with just lowers? Also, should I buy adjustable's or non adjustables? And if I were to do adjustable lowers, would I have to do adjustable uppers or could I do just do the regular uppers? Finally, what brands do you guys recommend? I was looking at the black powdercoated ones on AmericanMuscle's website but they don't say a brand, so I don't know what to think of them. I don't know much about suspension beyond shock/struts and springs so thanks in advance for any help!
 
  #2  
Old 11-15-2006, 02:24 PM
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Why do you want lca's?

You DO NOT NEED to do uppers just because you do lowers.

Adjustable vs. non adjustable depends on what you want. For you Id say non adjustable is fine.

Just because you do adjustable lowers DOES NOT mean you have to do adjustable uppers.
 
  #3  
Old 11-15-2006, 02:31 PM
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I'm wanting to get rid of the quad shocks (plus they need replacing and thought it would be a good time to look into control arms). I don't want to just take them off without beefing up the control arms a little.
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:34 PM
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Well the MM adjustables will let you adjust the ride height 1" down and 2" up. If you think thats something youd want then get it, if not then dont. But those are the ones Im running.
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:39 PM
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Honestly, the rear sits fine the way it is. I definitely don't want it raised anymore than it is, so I guess non adjustables may be a better route. Any brands that I should steer away from? I here granatelli is not the great...
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 02:41 PM
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Besides Granatelli, not really. MMRLCA-5 are the best ones for you.
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:41 PM
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How about the UPR Pro Street Chrome Moly U/L Control arms? The full kit is cheaper than the price of the MM lowers. Is MM high on their prices or is the UPR kit just a cheap, you get what you pay for kind of deal?
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:46 PM
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Yep, you get what you pay for. MM has great quality.
 
  #9  
Old 11-15-2006, 03:48 PM
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Good questions.....I'm wanting to do some LCA's also and I was looking at possibly getting UPR's cause they are a bit cheaper.....I just know you usually get what you pay for so I'll wait to hear peoples opinions on the UPR set up
 
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Old 11-15-2006, 03:53 PM
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I'm going to jump in on this one because suspension definately isn't my strong point. I already have 18x10 Saleens, but have been told I can't go wider than a 285 tire w/ quad shocks. I've been told I can just flip them, but I've also been told their s***t and should replace my control arms. If someone more knowledgeable is willing to explain in a little more detail than "upr's are cheap" (which is good advice, don't get me wrong), I prefer to understand what I'm getting into, and I can't wait to shove 315 drag radials in the wheel well.
 
  #11  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:06 PM
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Quad shocks stop wheel hop. You can remove the quad shocks, but you might get wheel hop, to cure that you need good lca's.

I cant comment on the quality of UPR's. But with poor quality arms you can bust bushings, get lots of noise, etc. You guys considering UPR stuff should do a search on other boards such as Modular Depot, Modular Powerhouse, and Modularmisfits.

97_Cobra_Droptop- your catback might even get in the way of your 315's.
 
  #12  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:11 PM
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I have UPR's. Lots of guys I know with fast mustangs run them. They are in my opinion a best bang for the buck control arm. You can't adjust them, but a really fine device.
 
  #13  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:11 PM
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Still stock exhaust, and I'll work around the tires when I upgrade. I plan on doing a full rebuild w/low compression and either twin turbos or a kenne bell. Trying to do wheels, tires, brakes, suspension, etc. first, ridiculous power last. Current Mods: K&N air filter, springs, wheels/tires. Thats all.
 
  #14  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 97_Cobra_Droptop
Still stock exhaust, and I'll work around the tires when I upgrade. I plan on doing a full rebuild w/low compression and either twin turbos or a kenne bell. Trying to do wheels, tires, brakes, suspension, etc. first, ridiculous power last. Current Mods: K&N air filter, springs, wheels/tires. Thats all.
If you want a car like that then dont even think about using bushings. Youll need a control arm with rod ends otherwise youll just bust the bushings. Look at Baselinesuspensions, PA Racing, or Wolfe Race Craft. Wolf actually has a 20% Christmas sale right now. Im looking into this kit, http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=324
 
  #15  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:20 PM
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Taking notes.

I'm probably completely off here, but....
On Maximum motorsports website they explain the quadshocks are for wheel hop. Lower control arms + Panhard bar + torque arm would eliminate the quadshocks? Like their just not there? does a coil over replace quad shocks or is that unrelated? (told you suspension wasn't my thing) Quadshocks and exhaust aside, anything else hamper 315's?

Not trying to hi-jack the post, just expanding and learning.

Thanks for the advice, please keep it coming.
 
  #16  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by 97_Cobra_Droptop
Taking notes.

I'm probably completely off here, but....
On Maximum motorsports website they explain the quadshocks are for wheel hop. Lower control arms + Panhard bar + torque arm would eliminate the quadshocks? Like their just not there?
They probably mean those things eliminate the need for quadshocks.

Originally Posted by 97_Cobra_Droptop
does a coil over replace quad shocks or is that unrelated? (told you suspension wasn't my thing)
Those are unrelated. Coil overs will replace your current coil springs. Front and rear coil overs allow you to adjust instant center. However, I think youll be fine with regular coil springs in the rear with adjustable lca's and uca's. I HIGHLY recommend that kit I just showed you. You get $155 off with the sale.

Originally Posted by 97_Cobra_Droptop
Quadshocks and exhaust aside, anything else hamper 315's?
Nope.
 
  #17  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:31 PM
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My car is only putting around 260 hp or so and it won't get a SC or nos anytime soon, so bushings should be ok for me. One of my concerns is noise too. I don't want something that is going to squeak, creak, etc. I have a popping noise back there already, usually when I go slow and hit a dip or something in the road which drives me nuts. I'm also hoping to eliminate that by installing control arms, but that may or may not go away. I hate noises, and my car seems to come up with a new one every week! I haven't found many reviews on the upr's but the few that I have had good things to say about them. Still kinda torn on what to think of them though.
 
  #18  
Old 11-15-2006, 04:37 PM
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I dont get any noise with my MM's, or Steeda's for that matter. However, I have a feeling both will be up for sale soon with that awesome sale Wolfe is having.
 
  #19  
Old 11-15-2006, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
I dont get any noise with my MM's, or Steeda's for that matter. However, I have a feeling both will be up for sale soon with that awesome sale Wolfe is having.
What kind of price would you be looking for if you put yours up for sale?

Steeda has Chrome Moly control arms just like upr so I would think the upr would be a good quality arms as well but who knows.
 
  #20  
Old 11-15-2006, 05:16 PM
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MM's paid about $380 for them, so probably like $270 shipped. These are the HD adjustable ones http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=524. For the Steedas I paid about $170, so probably like $150 shipped. http://www.steeda.com/products/hd_ad...ntrol_arms.php Part #555-4100. They would include everything, and I dont have any problems with either.
 
  #21  
Old 11-15-2006, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by 03gtmustang
MM's paid about $380 for them, so probably like $270 shipped. These are the HD adjustable ones http://www.maximummotorsports.com/st...roducts_id=524. For the Steedas I paid about $170, so probably like $150 shipped. http://www.steeda.com/products/hd_ad...ntrol_arms.php Part #555-4100. They would include everything, and I dont have any problems with either.
Would I need to replace the bushings or anything since you run the car at the track? How long have you had them on the car? And would you sell just the lowers? Also real quick, by having adjustable's can you messing anything up (like gears) when you adjust them? I've seen talk about pinion angle and all that so I didn't know...
 
  #22  
Old 11-15-2006, 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by yellowstang99
Would I need to replace the bushings or anything since you run the car at the track? How long have you had them on the car? And would you sell just the lowers? Also real quick, by having adjustable's can you messing anything up (like gears) when you adjust them? I've seen talk about pinion angle and all that so I didn't know...
No, the bushings are fine. Ive only ran the nitrous 4 times and only been to the track 3 times with the lowers. Ive had both on my car for less then 4k miles. I dont mind selling just the lowers. No you wont mess anything up. You adjust pinion angle with upper control arms. However, lowering the car does affect pinion angle. But I wouldnt be worried about messing anything up.

With adjustable lowers and coil overs in the front you can adjust instant center.

https://mustangboards.com/mustang-cl...r-control.html
 
  #23  
Old 11-16-2006, 05:15 AM
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Go with the MM pieces. Believe me, the difference in cornoring is substantial and wheel hop in most cases doesn't exist. If you are looking for other options, the pieces from Global have the same bushing set-up (just reversed so the poly bushing is on the axle side rather than the chassis side).
 
  #24  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:13 AM
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I have the UPR tubular lowers and stock uppers. I noticed quite a difference. They are a good price too.
 
  #25  
Old 11-16-2006, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by bassman97
Go with the MM pieces. Believe me, the difference in cornoring is substantial and wheel hop in most cases doesn't exist. If you are looking for other options, the pieces from Global have the same bushing set-up (just reversed so the poly bushing is on the axle side rather than the chassis side).
Noticed a type-o in my post. For the other choice, it's Global West, not Global. If you want more info, globalwest.net is their site.
 
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