Normally 80ish each set.

call it what you want, the crud inside the cooling jacket is made of rust, lime, calcium and various metal salts. CLR will remove it. Hot tanking can't get it all but looks like they did a pretty good job. MMR spent a full 8 hours cleaning my block after it was tanked.

That's true flash rust. Bare unprotected steel getting a very fine thin layer of surface rust. You can usually scotch brite that kind off but the thicker stuff in the water jacket is kinda tough. CLR will take most of the effort out of the removal.

 

Hey r3d I looked up those main bearings and they have two listings.

One is std and one says -.010"

Guess I'll have to pick up some plastigauge.

 

It worked out great! oil drain line was a little closer to the ground then I liked but i didnt get a chance to make an oil pan for the turbo before my rod let go. Most of the pipes are cut from a summit x-pipe. The motor in the pic is a 4.6L, my 5.4 is still in the shop, I'm waiting on my BHJ honing plate, It wont be here till the 15th theyhad to machine it, and my engine builder runs TopAlky funny car and is going to be out of town anyways till the 14th. Once he gets back it should be just a matter of days before I have the short block back. I am trying to decide on stage III head and cams. I know for sure about the heads but is it possible to get a nasty idle and still be turbo friendly?

 

Who has the best deal on main studs and head studs for the 5.4L?

 

rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.

summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.

 

Machine work is done, and I'm the builder. lol.

I was reading my spec sheet last night from the machinist because he polished up the cam bearings all nice and he had some notes on there for me about the bearings.

 

will the vortech bracket off my 4.6 bolt in the same place on the 5.4? I know the answer is probably no but if anyone knows can they tell me?

 

might be close. you might have to drill/tap new holes.... haven't gotten my vortech bracket yet to test fit it...

 

anything can be made to work with enough thought and work. If you want the vortech, chase it.

 

you guys wouldn't be upset with me if i were to get a 94-95 GT and go tall deck windsor would you?

the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves.

ok, back to the 5.4l 2v awsomeness

 

If you do a Windsor build, throw Cleveland heads on. Even most aftermarket heads can't flow as well as stock iron Cleveland heads.

 

clev-sor FTW!

I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.

 

headers are here!!!!these are the before pics. then tomarrow i'll get them under the car to measure what i need to do to modify them...

 

Ditto... Your old FRPP's came in over here a couple days ago. I had to port out the insides a bit on the driver side pipe (#4 & #6 cyls) but they look great. I went and stuck my finger down all the pipes and found that the dump for #4 was less than half the size it should be since it merged with the #6 pipe. there was enough interference in the flow path to cause a pretty big power hit. I just took a carbide bit on a dremel and removed the excess. I'll bet all FRPP driver side headers are like this, so if anyone wants detailed pics, let me know.

Oddly enough the #4 and #6 cylinders are the ones I've also seen the most rod breakage on... wonder why.

In any case, the stock iron manifolds do NOT suffer from the same interference fitting as the FRPP shorties so in a head to head comparison if you don't fix the tubes up in the FRPP's I think the stockers will outperform them. After the fix, there should be a little benefit on the shortie side from a pure flow perspective.

 

what clutch and pressure plate did u guys use for the 5.4?

 

I have a pair of solutions ready to go. My stock clutch disc and pressure plate and a 8 bolt sintered iron flywheel from an 03 cobra if I want to stay with 11", I also bought a Apex Motorsports DF kevlar disc, 10.5" king cobra pressure plate and a fidanza aluminum flywheel . I should be able to make at least one of them work.

 

i got a spec stage 1 clutch and spec aluminum flywheel

 

post pics of what you found in the headers... i'm curious to see it.

 

did some test fitting and started chopping away....

 

I got the grime and rust and all cleaned off my block and started to paint it.

High Temp flat black.

Pics in my sig.


What are you guys take on freeze plugs ? If they look fine, do they need to be replaced ?

 

replace anyway especially if you live in a cold climate. They're easy and cheap.

 

Cold climate ? haha, I'm in Vegas.

Is any one freeze plug better then another ? Perhaps a different material or something, or should I just pick up some stockers from ford ?

Also I found a bug on my site not letting any of you guys see the pics I was posting - thats all fixed now.

 

vegas... sweet. Stayin at your place for SEMA then (I may have a freebie trip to SEMA coming my way).

In that climate.. I'd replace them out of a concern of corrosion on the interior side. Ford parts would be my choice. I know for a fact they'll work.

Thanks for fixing the bug...it was killing me.

 

here u go, just buy a 5.4 done: http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=925693

 

hey... the CLR work like you wanted?

 

It made short work of the exterior of the block, a little CLR and a big wire brush cut right through 90% of the crap on the block (you can see in one of the pics I posted of the... um... well I'd say lifter valley but its a modular).

The cooling jackets was another story, I was unable to find a good wire brush/pipe cleaner that had strong enough bristles to do a little scrubbing. I'm still unsure what to do there short of buying a few gallons of CLR and filling the jackets up to the top and letting them soak a bit before hitting with the brush.

 

and did u guys use the belt off the 5.4?

 

Yea dude your gonna have to use the 5.4L belt because of the added height of the motor. It moves the accessories futher away from each other.

 

its like an inch longer then the 4.6 one

 

that block looks great. huge difference from before and after. good luck on the build.