View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Voters: 220. You may not vote on this poll
Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
#2701
Flash rust isn't really scally or lose. Just apears when you have bare metal w/o protection. For a pic of it: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/02/projectFE/
Now, the total engine damage isn't due to flash rust but you can see what it looks like.
Now, the total engine damage isn't due to flash rust but you can see what it looks like.
#2703
It worked out great! oil drain line was a little closer to the ground then I liked but i didnt get a chance to make an oil pan for the turbo before my rod let go. Most of the pipes are cut from a summit x-pipe. The motor in the pic is a 4.6L, my 5.4 is still in the shop, I'm waiting on my BHJ honing plate, It wont be here till the 15th theyhad to machine it, and my engine builder runs TopAlky funny car and is going to be out of town anyways till the 14th. Once he gets back it should be just a matter of days before I have the short block back. I am trying to decide on stage III head and cams. I know for sure about the heads but is it possible to get a nasty idle and still be turbo friendly?
#2705
rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
#2706
rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
I was reading my spec sheet last night from the machinist because he polished up the cam bearings all nice and he had some notes on there for me about the bearings.
#2710
you guys wouldn't be upset with me if i were to get a 94-95 GT and go tall deck windsor would you?
the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves.
ok, back to the 5.4l 2v awsomeness
the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves.
ok, back to the 5.4l 2v awsomeness
#2712
clev-sor FTW!
I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.
I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.
#2714
Oddly enough the #4 and #6 cylinders are the ones I've also seen the most rod breakage on... wonder why.
In any case, the stock iron manifolds do NOT suffer from the same interference fitting as the FRPP shorties so in a head to head comparison if you don't fix the tubes up in the FRPP's I think the stockers will outperform them. After the fix, there should be a little benefit on the shortie side from a pure flow perspective.
Last edited by r3dn3ck; 10-07-2007 at 10:28 AM.
#2716
I have a pair of solutions ready to go. My stock clutch disc and pressure plate and a 8 bolt sintered iron flywheel from an 03 cobra if I want to stay with 11", I also bought a Apex Motorsports DF kevlar disc, 10.5" king cobra pressure plate and a fidanza aluminum flywheel . I should be able to make at least one of them work.
#2722
Is any one freeze plug better then another ? Perhaps a different material or something, or should I just pick up some stockers from ford ?
Also I found a bug on my site not letting any of you guys see the pics I was posting - thats all fixed now.
#2723
vegas... sweet. Stayin at your place for SEMA then (I may have a freebie trip to SEMA coming my way).
In that climate.. I'd replace them out of a concern of corrosion on the interior side. Ford parts would be my choice. I know for a fact they'll work.
Thanks for fixing the bug...it was killing me.
In that climate.. I'd replace them out of a concern of corrosion on the interior side. Ford parts would be my choice. I know for a fact they'll work.
Thanks for fixing the bug...it was killing me.
#2724
#2726
It made short work of the exterior of the block, a little CLR and a big wire brush cut right through 90% of the crap on the block (you can see in one of the pics I posted of the... um... well I'd say lifter valley but its a modular).
The cooling jackets was another story, I was unable to find a good wire brush/pipe cleaner that had strong enough bristles to do a little scrubbing. I'm still unsure what to do there short of buying a few gallons of CLR and filling the jackets up to the top and letting them soak a bit before hitting with the brush.
The cooling jackets was another story, I was unable to find a good wire brush/pipe cleaner that had strong enough bristles to do a little scrubbing. I'm still unsure what to do there short of buying a few gallons of CLR and filling the jackets up to the top and letting them soak a bit before hitting with the brush.