Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
Modular 4.6L TechFor all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.
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Whats the cost on those ? I'll have to see if I can get them through my vendors for my shop.
Normally 80ish each set.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2Eighty1
Scale ? A quick google tells me Scale = loose, flakey rust, am I right ?
It's mostly for piece of mind that I want it cleaned up, it may not be hurting anything but I know its there.
call it what you want, the crud inside the cooling jacket is made of rust, lime, calcium and various metal salts. CLR will remove it. Hot tanking can't get it all but looks like they did a pretty good job. MMR spent a full 8 hours cleaning my block after it was tanked.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman97
Flash rust isn't really scally or lose. Just apears when you have bare metal w/o protection. For a pic of it: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/02/projectFE/
Now, the total engine damage isn't due to flash rust but you can see what it looks like.
That's true flash rust. Bare unprotected steel getting a very fine thin layer of surface rust. You can usually scotch brite that kind off but the thicker stuff in the water jacket is kinda tough. CLR will take most of the effort out of the removal.
cdjnight- thats an interesting turbo placement. congrats on the fab work. is that a 4.6 of 5.4 in the pics?
It worked out great! oil drain line was a little closer to the ground then I liked but i didnt get a chance to make an oil pan for the turbo before my rod let go. Most of the pipes are cut from a summit x-pipe. The motor in the pic is a 4.6L, my 5.4 is still in the shop, I'm waiting on my BHJ honing plate, It wont be here till the 15th theyhad to machine it, and my engine builder runs TopAlky funny car and is going to be out of town anyways till the 14th. Once he gets back it should be just a matter of days before I have the short block back. I am trying to decide on stage III head and cams. I know for sure about the heads but is it possible to get a nasty idle and still be turbo friendly?
__________________ Momentum is everything till you drive off a cliff!
2003 Mustang GT, 5.4L Triton V8(LOL), Comp 270's gears and springs, Intercooled Turbonetics T72, 60lb injectors, Flowmaster 3.5" Single Chamber, ArtCarr powerglide and 9" converter, Racegate, Sniper Commando Tuning, Magna fuel system, MSD MOD6, LM1 wideband, Strange shocks and struts, Basline pro rear susepension, Tubular front. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaJ2yQH1Ezs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1hiMJy3ezk
rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.
summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.
Machine work is done, and I'm the builder. lol.
I was reading my spec sheet last night from the machinist because he polished up the cam bearings all nice and he had some notes on there for me about the bearings.
you guys wouldn't be upset with me if i were to get a 94-95 GT and go tall deck windsor would you?
the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves.
I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.
headers are here!!!!these are the before pics. then tomarrow i'll get them under the car to measure what i need to do to modify them...
Ditto... Your old FRPP's came in over here a couple days ago. I had to port out the insides a bit on the driver side pipe (#4 & #6 cyls) but they look great. I went and stuck my finger down all the pipes and found that the dump for #4 was less than half the size it should be since it merged with the #6 pipe. there was enough interference in the flow path to cause a pretty big power hit. I just took a carbide bit on a dremel and removed the excess. I'll bet all FRPP driver side headers are like this, so if anyone wants detailed pics, let me know.
Oddly enough the #4 and #6 cylinders are the ones I've also seen the most rod breakage on... wonder why.
In any case, the stock iron manifolds do NOT suffer from the same interference fitting as the FRPP shorties so in a head to head comparison if you don't fix the tubes up in the FRPP's I think the stockers will outperform them. After the fix, there should be a little benefit on the shortie side from a pure flow perspective.
I have a pair of solutions ready to go. My stock clutch disc and pressure plate and a 8 bolt sintered iron flywheel from an 03 cobra if I want to stay with 11", I also bought a Apex Motorsports DF kevlar disc, 10.5" king cobra pressure plate and a fidanza aluminum flywheel . I should be able to make at least one of them work.
It made short work of the exterior of the block, a little CLR and a big wire brush cut right through 90% of the crap on the block (you can see in one of the pics I posted of the... um... well I'd say lifter valley but its a modular).
The cooling jackets was another story, I was unable to find a good wire brush/pipe cleaner that had strong enough bristles to do a little scrubbing. I'm still unsure what to do there short of buying a few gallons of CLR and filling the jackets up to the top and letting them soak a bit before hitting with the brush.
Momentum is everything till you drive off a cliff!
(I may have a freebie trip to SEMA coming my way). 
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