Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine. - Page 91

r3dn3ck · 10-04-2007, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2Eighty1

FM153 main

I'm assuming

FM7250CH is for the rods ?

Whats the cost on those ? I'll have to see if I can get them through my vendors for my shop.

Normally 80ish each set.

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2Eighty1

Scale ? A quick google tells me Scale = loose, flakey rust, am I right ?

It's mostly for piece of mind that I want it cleaned up, it may not be hurting anything but I know its there.

call it what you want, the crud inside the cooling jacket is made of rust, lime, calcium and various metal salts. CLR will remove it. Hot tanking can't get it all but looks like they did a pretty good job. MMR spent a full 8 hours cleaning my block after it was tanked.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bassman97

Flash rust isn't really scally or lose. Just apears when you have bare metal w/o protection. For a pic of it: http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2001/02/projectFE/
Now, the total engine damage isn't due to flash rust but you can see what it looks like.

That's true flash rust. Bare unprotected steel getting a very fine thin layer of surface rust. You can usually scotch brite that kind off but the thicker stuff in the water jacket is kinda tough. CLR will take most of the effort out of the removal.

2Eighty1 · 10-04-2007, 03:40 PM

Hey r3d I looked up those main bearings and they have two listings.

One is std and one says -.010"

Guess I'll have to pick up some plastigauge.

cdjnight · 10-04-2007, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myillwillinc

cdjnight- thats an interesting turbo placement. congrats on the fab work. is that a 4.6 of 5.4 in the pics?

It worked out great! oil drain line was a little closer to the ground then I liked but i didnt get a chance to make an oil pan for the turbo before my rod let go. Most of the pipes are cut from a summit x-pipe. The motor in the pic is a 4.6L, my 5.4 is still in the shop, I'm waiting on my BHJ honing plate, It wont be here till the 15th theyhad to machine it, and my engine builder runs TopAlky funny car and is going to be out of town anyways till the 14th. Once he gets back it should be just a matter of days before I have the short block back. I am trying to decide on stage III head and cams. I know for sure about the heads but is it possible to get a nasty idle and still be turbo friendly?

cdjnight · 10-04-2007, 08:08 PM

Who has the best deal on main studs and head studs for the 5.4L?

r3dn3ck · 10-05-2007, 07:46 AM

rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.

summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.

2Eighty1 · 10-05-2007, 09:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3dn3ck

rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way.

summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.

Machine work is done, and I'm the builder. lol.

I was reading my spec sheet last night from the machinist because he polished up the cam bearings all nice and he had some notes on there for me about the bearings.

sidekicksurfer · 10-05-2007, 10:34 AM

will the vortech bracket off my 4.6 bolt in the same place on the 5.4? I know the answer is probably no but if anyone knows can they tell me?

myillwillinc · 10-05-2007, 10:56 AM

might be close. you might have to drill/tap new holes.... haven't gotten my vortech bracket yet to test fit it...

r3dn3ck · 10-05-2007, 01:20 PM

anything can be made to work with enough thought and work. If you want the vortech, chase it.

tooslow · 10-05-2007, 10:32 PM

you guys wouldn't be upset with me if i were to get a 94-95 GT and go tall deck windsor would you?

the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves.

ok, back to the 5.4l 2v awsomeness

bassman97 · 10-06-2007, 07:35 AM

If you do a Windsor build, throw Cleveland heads on. Even most aftermarket heads can't flow as well as stock iron Cleveland heads.

r3dn3ck · 10-06-2007, 10:51 AM

clev-sor FTW!

I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.

myillwillinc · 10-06-2007, 03:43 PM

headers are here!!!!these are the before pics. then tomarrow i'll get them under the car to measure what i need to do to modify them...

r3dn3ck · 10-07-2007, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by myillwillinc

headers are here!!!!these are the before pics. then tomarrow i'll get them under the car to measure what i need to do to modify them...

Ditto... Your old FRPP's came in over here a couple days ago. I had to port out the insides a bit on the driver side pipe (#4 & #6 cyls) but they look great. I went and stuck my finger down all the pipes and found that the dump for #4 was less than half the size it should be since it merged with the #6 pipe. there was enough interference in the flow path to cause a pretty big power hit. I just took a carbide bit on a dremel and removed the excess. I'll bet all FRPP driver side headers are like this, so if anyone wants detailed pics, let me know.

Oddly enough the #4 and #6 cylinders are the ones I've also seen the most rod breakage on... wonder why.

In any case, the stock iron manifolds do NOT suffer from the same interference fitting as the FRPP shorties so in a head to head comparison if you don't fix the tubes up in the FRPP's I think the stockers will outperform them. After the fix, there should be a little benefit on the shortie side from a pure flow perspective.

razorwire7 · 10-07-2007, 12:46 PM

what clutch and pressure plate did u guys use for the 5.4?

r3dn3ck · 10-07-2007, 12:51 PM

I have a pair of solutions ready to go. My stock clutch disc and pressure plate and a 8 bolt sintered iron flywheel from an 03 cobra if I want to stay with 11", I also bought a Apex Motorsports DF kevlar disc, 10.5" king cobra pressure plate and a fidanza aluminum flywheel . I should be able to make at least one of them work.

myillwillinc · 10-07-2007, 01:50 PM

i got a spec stage 1 clutch and spec aluminum flywheel

myillwillinc · 10-07-2007, 01:51 PM

post pics of what you found in the headers... i'm curious to see it.

myillwillinc · 10-07-2007, 05:53 PM

did some test fitting and started chopping away....

2Eighty1 · 10-07-2007, 11:50 PM

I got the grime and rust and all cleaned off my block and started to paint it.

High Temp flat black.

Pics in my sig.

What are you guys take on freeze plugs ? If they look fine, do they need to be replaced ?

r3dn3ck · 10-08-2007, 09:46 AM

replace anyway especially if you live in a cold climate. They're easy and cheap.

2Eighty1 · 10-08-2007, 09:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by r3dn3ck

replace anyway especially if you live in a cold climate. They're easy and cheap.

Cold climate ? haha, I'm in Vegas.

Is any one freeze plug better then another ? Perhaps a different material or something, or should I just pick up some stockers from ford ?

Also I found a bug on my site not letting any of you guys see the pics I was posting - thats all fixed now.

View Poll Results: What are your 5.4L swap plans?
Not swapping. You guys are nuts for trying.	0	0%
Not swapping but find the topic interesting.	0	0%
Thinking about doing the swap but not in the next year.	0	0%
Definitely going to do the swap in the next year or so.	0	0%
Doing it now. Looking for an engine or awaiting delivery.	0	0%
Doing it now. Already bought an engine.	0	0%
Done. Got my 5.4L and showin my tail lights to camaro's every day.	0	0%
Screw 5.4, I'm going 6.8L V10	0	0%
Voters: 0. You may not vote on this poll

10-04-2007, 03:40 PM	#2702 (permalink)
2Eighty1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 361	Hey r3d I looked up those main bearings and they have two listings. One is std and one says -.010" Guess I'll have to pick up some plastigauge. Last edited by 2Eighty1 : 10-04-2007 at 03:43 PM.

10-04-2007, 08:08 PM	#2704 (permalink)
cdjnight Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 116	Who has the best deal on main studs and head studs for the 5.4L? __________________ Momentum is everything till you drive off a cliff! 2003 Mustang GT, 5.4L Triton V8(LOL), Comp 270's gears and springs, Intercooled Precision T63, 42lb injectors, Flowmaster 3.5" Single Chamber, B&M Holeshot 3000, Racegate, Sniper Commando Tuning, Kenne Bell BAP,BG Mighty Sumo pump, MSD MOD6, LM1 wideband, Best e.t, 7.67@92mph in the 1/8th. on MT drag radials. No dyno tune yet. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DaJ2yQH1Ezs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1hiMJy3ezk

10-05-2007, 10:56 AM	#2708 (permalink)
myillwillinc Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 618	might be close. you might have to drill/tap new holes.... haven't gotten my vortech bracket yet to test fit it... __________________ 5.4 project in progress linky-> http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm T-Rods Coatings - Custom all the way.... http://www.illwillinc.com/

10-05-2007, 10:32 PM	#2710 (permalink)
tooslow Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Posts: 165	you guys wouldn't be upset with me if i were to get a 94-95 GT and go tall deck windsor would you? the sn-95 is by far my favorite late model stang. so i'm doing an all out sn-95 as the next project i take. the 5.4l route is starting to gain speed, and that is awsome. I'm just starting to miss push-rods, high flow heads, and big cubes. Its 50/50 right now. Regardless, i love the progress that this thread has brought to the 5.4l stangs. and i'll continue to keep up with the swaps being done and research more into it myself as i've been doing. The outcome of all the builds here and the HPS intake will be big deciding factors for me. I'm not really interested in 4v cars so i doupt i ever go 4.6l 4v or even 5.4l 4v. i only want 2 valves. ok, back to the 5.4l 2v awsomeness __________________ ______ 98 GT

10-05-2007, 07:46 AM	#2705 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,856	rod/main bearing size: That's entirely up to your machinist and engine builder. You should wait until after all machine work has finished to get the bearings and then you're engine builder will have size requirements for you. It's easier that way. summit has about the best prices I've seen for studs. You may want to check out MMR (www.modularmustangracing.com) as well.

10-05-2007, 10:34 AM	#2707 (permalink)
sidekicksurfer Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 47	will the vortech bracket off my 4.6 bolt in the same place on the 5.4? I know the answer is probably no but if anyone knows can they tell me?

10-05-2007, 01:20 PM	#2709 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,856	anything can be made to work with enough thought and work. If you want the vortech, chase it.

10-06-2007, 07:35 AM	#2711 (permalink)
bassman97 blank Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: North Jersey Posts: 1,420	If you do a Windsor build, throw Cleveland heads on. Even most aftermarket heads can't flow as well as stock iron Cleveland heads.

10-06-2007, 10:51 AM	#2712 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,856	clev-sor FTW! I learned a while back that once you've decided on a route it's best to stick with it or the cost goes through the roof. Either a pushrod or a OHC motor... build what makes you happy.

10-07-2007, 12:46 PM	#2715 (permalink)
razorwire7 5.4L in progress Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 29	what clutch and pressure plate did u guys use for the 5.4?

10-07-2007, 12:51 PM	#2716 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,856	I have a pair of solutions ready to go. My stock clutch disc and pressure plate and a 8 bolt sintered iron flywheel from an 03 cobra if I want to stay with 11", I also bought a Apex Motorsports DF kevlar disc, 10.5" king cobra pressure plate and a fidanza aluminum flywheel . I should be able to make at least one of them work.

10-07-2007, 01:50 PM	#2717 (permalink)
myillwillinc Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 618	i got a spec stage 1 clutch and spec aluminum flywheel __________________ 5.4 project in progress linky-> http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm T-Rods Coatings - Custom all the way.... http://www.illwillinc.com/

10-07-2007, 01:51 PM	#2718 (permalink)
myillwillinc Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 618	post pics of what you found in the headers... i'm curious to see it. __________________ 5.4 project in progress linky-> http://www.illwillinc.com/97mustang.htm T-Rods Coatings - Custom all the way.... http://www.illwillinc.com/

10-07-2007, 11:50 PM	#2720 (permalink)
2Eighty1 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Posts: 361	I got the grime and rust and all cleaned off my block and started to paint it. High Temp flat black. Pics in my sig. What are you guys take on freeze plugs ? If they look fine, do they need to be replaced ? __________________ 5.4L 3v '04 GT Buildup In Progress... For Photos visit: http://www.whitemustangregistry.com/...AGT-t1625.html

10-08-2007, 09:46 AM	#2721 (permalink)
r3dn3ck Wowbagger hates me too! Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Magrathea/California Posts: 6,856	replace anyway especially if you live in a cold climate. They're easy and cheap.