Man I searched for about an hour through the thread and could not find the place. Unless it was ProPowerParts.com? I had that written down on my notes from months ago, but wasn't sure if they had them.

 

the 5.4 comes with a knock sensor that the 4.6 pcm doesn't use. Is there some way to use that to monitor for detonation? with a gauge or something?

 

Thats a good question, i'm doing the pi head swap right now and i'm using some 5.4L heads and it has the sensor but i was wondering the same thing.

 

I'm working on a guage setup as we speak. It's pretty simple to setup a guage to monitor but pretty hard to test what's good and what's bad so I don't know that it'll be much use. I just wanted to make it work for the sake of it.

assassin ... I got to see some underhood pics. cmon... hook a brutha up.

 

Well guys, I decided to buy a house and pick up this project later.

So my 5.4 is for sale.

98 Block w/ forged crank, .20 over, manley/mmr pistons and rods, speedpro rings

$2500 for any here, $3000 for anyone else and paying $100 finders fee to you guys.


My car is for sale also if your interested.

 

What are the specs on the pistons and what should the compression be, and is it already assembled or just the parts?

 

18CC dished, and allready assembled.

 

sorry to hear it man, good luck on the house. It's a better investment anyway.

 

I'll be back in no time, I have every intention of picking up where I'm leaving off.

 

go to stangnet in 'tech' and talk. type in my username and they are there. all of them. the whole process.

 

oh my username in stangnet is billfisher

 

i couldn't find it man, could you post up a linky linky.

 

http://forums.wildhorsesclub.com/showthread.php?t=19118

I knew I recognized the numbers. Welcome billy. You know I've been a WH member for like 5-6 years.

 

that looks cool, i was just curious but how do you dismount the plenum? it looks like you had to weild it one with the plate bolted down??? Also, just curious, but i was thinking that the 3v would turn out more rwheel hp than 250? maybe i'm wrong though.

 

you have to realize that a stock 5.4 3v without vct is handicapped. if you have a dyno sim try advancing the cams to 9 degrees. it help only low rpms. anything above 4000 is lost. then add an intake with runners designed for 3500 - 4000. if you go and do a search in 'corral' for usernamr EDO you will find the SVT engineer i talked with about doing this. he ran 11.4 @ 119 mph with a 5.4 3v. not radical. 11.7:1, cams, the same intake mod i did, etc. that's about 370-390 rwhp. he turned it 6900.


i chose to do a step by step instead of just jumping to the end. oh there is a better way for the intake. a power pipe 90* elbow and 90mm TB would be best for power. i am sticking with the stock hood. i have a 4" cobra 'r' hood in the shed. that's for when i pull the motor and forge it. 5.4 3v come with a forged crank. they are good to 8400 rpm with prep. rod and piston are all i need. and .020 over.

so the power is there. just not yet. that 250 rwhp is with an automatic and at only 4250 rpm.

 

some pics may be lost

http://www.f150online.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=223805


http://home.att.net/~bill.fisher/index2.htm

 

I'm not trying to diss your swap at all dude, i was just curious thats all. But you kinda answered my question anyway, when you said that its using the truck intake. That kills it right there in my opinion but it isn't an opinion you should trust. It would just seem more pratical to power that you put the mustang intake on with some adapter plates. But hey its all good. On that f150 site there seems to be a lot of haters lol.

 

the truck intake is something of a handicap anyway. nonetheless you've managed to significantly modify one in a way even I didn't have the guts for. Kudos for being ballsy.

It seems you've got the skills needed to fabricate a full blown sheet metal design... why not do it. really all you need is some 3v adapter plates as bases and then weld up some runners and a common plenum. Stick the plenum down nice and low and make yourself a TB mount like the one you've done but with a curved long side to smooth the flow.

CRO62832-2 in-490 ex-502 in- 278º ex- 294º cams would probably REALLY help. Your intake will help maintain the low end tq but this cam will let you zip the peak up to 5000+rpm with the accompanying gains. Tq gains wouldn't surprise me thanks to overall power improvement.

 

ok got the money coming up in the next pay check i need the plates for the intake can someone email me and tell me where to get them or if you got some for sale
steven46-50@hotmail.com thanks

 

call up bob at hiperformancesolutions.com. Get a set of those. They should be about 375.. tell bob Colin sent you.

 

the reason for not fabbing one is the intake port angle. on 2v and 4v the relative angle of the intake ports is 45 degrees from vertical. it allows easy intake runner fabbing. no bends necessary, or very little to a plenum. with 3v it isn't as simple. the relative angle of the ports is 0 dergrees vertical. they point straight up. good for charge filling, but bad for straight runners.


take the 4.6 3v plates. in order to adapt the intake it will require the angle at the end of the plastic to continue to the ports. there's no other way to get the extra 1" width. but what does that do to the charge when it has to make a 20 or so degrees turn into the port? it hurts flow. you lose at least 500 rpms.

i have considered splitting 1/2" pipe with a short raidus and filling the gap with sheet metal. it makes an oval runner. that still doesn't match. or bandsawing the crossection bend and welding a square runner with the bend.

my approach is to use the factory plastic runner bend and plastic welding flanges so i can screw a sheet metal plenum to them.

we will call that stage 3 intake. that's later.


by using the ends of the factory runner i eliminate sealing at the head, bolt patterns at the heads, etc. Al Papito and fourcam330 suggested 7" runners for max HP. i think 9" is best for 7200 and street use.

al had already suggested a cam profile for me. the crane .550"/.600 284/304 is close to what i need.

let me find his e-mail and i will post what he said.

my goal has always been 525 flywheel hp and streetable. at 6900.

it will require the heads to be ported to 260cfm and those cams. Al will port them for 750.00 a piece. just porting and back cutting the valves.

 

hmmm, see what i was thinking was to get a set of the plates, then i would do the 9" runners with a bell shaped intrance, but have the pipe curved about 2 inches above the plates toward the middle and then about 2 inches from the top it curves back up... so the pipes are interlocking and then make a intake around them and weild them up into it. also have the t/b pointed forward,

I just thought about it but it kinda reminds me of the old lt1 intake or something like that but i don't think the runners go the same way i'm thinking

Maybe i could show it on here but the pipe would kinda have an S shape to it

. _/
./_/
./
i know it kinda sucks but somthing like this???
it would go strait up as it exits and then curver then across and then
it would curve back up and the top would be a bell for more velocity



So what you guys think??? i think it would easily fit under a stock hood or maybe a small cowl or r hood ???

 

the only problem with straight runners is their propensity to only pulse tune. you can only get a third order pulse ram from them. adding a trumpet is, of course a good idea, but what if your trumpet ratio of length, opening dia and throat diameter is to steep. what you will get is velocity approaching sonic and airflow collapse.

for example a good runner for my app is 14 inches long with a 4 degree taper. a tunnel ram. lost low end but unbeatable hp.

these stock (4.6 2v,3v,4v)intakes have taper built into them. that's why it's hard for the aftermarket to top them. long runners with taper. torque and HP.

so before i just go with one type of tuning and throw away everything else, i will consider things longer.

do a search of short runner 96-98 cobra intakes. even trumpeted short runners fall short in everything but peak hp. they lose 20-30 lb-ft to 5500 and then only gain 20hp.

if someone has the formulas and dyno to use reflective tuning(there is a fancy name for it somewhere), and other forms then go for it.

taper, length, pulse tuning. take advantage of plenum high pressure waves to ram the next runner. how? i have no idea.

Al's making 600+rwhp now with an intake with 100's of hours of nascar style work.

 

yea, all i know about building an intake came from a guy that designes nascar intakes and such. He built my brothers intake for his svo for about 3/4 grand. thats what my thinking is off of but who knows, it has the 4 runners with the trumpets and the tunnel thing going on

 

As long as the bends in the runners are long and smooth like a german freeway it's all good. You will lose some peak rpm but I see little excuse to run a 4"+ stroke motor past 6K rpm... piston speeds are out in space there. The curves will help build runner volume as well . Why not approach it from another direction...optimize the runner size and shape so the reverse pressure waves should cancel each other out within the common plenum making harmonics a non-issue.

 

this with a sullivan intake looks like a better option than the aussie intake and considering the aussie intake is 3000+shipping from australia...also cheaper

and this puts the throttle body in the stock location instead of coming out the front with the sullivan adaptor like a 3v/ls1 so you could just put your stock intake tube or a cobra/mach1 CAI on it

http://www.proturbokits.com/store/sc...?idproduct=308

 

the aussie intake is better for NA cars. the sullivan has such a small plenum and short runners it's pretty well a high rpm blower piece. I'm sure it'll make power but the question is how much.

 

this is true but, i bet it makes a ton more power than the stock navi intake and isn't near as tall, and the price tag/availability is 100x better than the aussie and custom aluminum hat

 

it was my impression that the navi intake flowed like a gang buster but i could be wrong.

These could be some of the fixes found them on http://www.karkraft.com/new_page_1.htm

 

are you 4V void? if so you have a bazillion good options.

i didn't bother to read your config.

with 2 or 4v those bends are of little importance. make 2 four cylinder intakes with a balance tube. crap i was thinking you were 3v.