Is there a difference between the boss 290 intake and the boss 260 intakes?? there the same wright?

Intake is still on passenger side of car just like the 290 wright?? i thought they didnt change the intake ... just wanting to make sure...

 

...i haven't even gotten my car to the dyno yet and here i am looking at turbo set ups lol



anyone think a ball bearing 88mm would be enough? thinking about getting just the 88 and having a local guy fab up the kit using stock exhaust manifolds/shorty headers flipped backwards

 

put longtubes in the mix and those numbers go way up. The longtubes will be available shortly. I don't know if you've seen the posts on that subject but it looks like between myillwillinc and I we've got 2 suppliers for 2 different grade headers.

 

If I'm not mistaken, the 260 was 3V and the 290 was 4V.

 

an 88 would probably be almost too big. Do you know the AR on each side? I can run a sim for you.

 

2 different grades eh? Question is how much trouble will they be to put on. My mac longtubes on the 4.6 in the car now is not exactily fun....as a matter of fact its the worst thing to do on my car out of everything. Thats one of the reasons i was thinkin about shorties because there is less hassle.

 

.96

 

if your doing the work on putting a 5.4 in your car the best thing to do is to rop the motor and k-member about a foot below it's mounting point and boltup the long tubes. sounds hard but it is alot easier then installing shorties on the car.

 

I've been following the thread and my reason for signing up. I have a Bullitt (if that isn't obvious from the screen name). I'm going to build the Bullitt with the 4.6. I don't want to get rid of the intake manifold, but a 2001 Cobra 5.4 4 valve would be nice down the road with a turbo setup. Any way here is a link to a lightning block for $100 bones plus shipping. Not much time left on bid.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...=p4506.c0.m245

 

woah. an 88 would be fine for HUGE numbers, depending on airflow in the motor. if the compressor map matches your motor and the exhaust turbine A/R spools right its not too big.

i am using an 80mm on my 4.5 3v build. the sky is the limit for power with it.

a ported GT40 housing with 56 trim .80 a/r and a quick spooling .84 a/r exhaust will work well down low and high. a ball bearing turbo will withstand 40psi. that housing is excellent for low airflow surging.

 

with that being said, you'll need to spin the hell out of it to use enough airflow to really get everything out of it.


a good ole 70 will do fine also.

 

i was looking more from a comparative standpoint
hellion includes a 76mm turbo as their base line turbo for the 03/04 cobra kit and make close to 1000rwhp with it...i have a forged bottom end and more cubes i figured an 88 would be good for 1300-1500rwhp but it would need a little gogo juice off the line to get it up and going....you know so it can boil the tires 100ft from the line when it hits boost lol


and i don't want twins...i like the big single turbo's they seem to be a better option for 1/4 track times

 

Yea i heard that from a guy i was talking to yesterday said the same thing. only problem is they will still need to be modified. Anyone try putting putting MAC longtubes on a 5.4? what all had to be done.

 

Just buy one of the sets being made available when they become available (soon)... modding them is a bitch of the highest order and ends up costing thousands if you can't do the welding yourself.

the 76mm is probably better suited to the task if there's any street left in the car. You'll be in a pretty sweet spot. If you've made it a track car, big works.

my point exactly.

Is that off a diesel? It's pretty loose... I'd think that a tighter AR would much improve boost response. Even with a single on a 5.4. I'd say look into something around .76 AR so it spools before 3K rpm.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/Turbo-Power-Pack...d=p3286.c0.m14

what problem is there with that set... it's just missing any piping but that's kinda obvious. Could it possibly be an actual good deal?

 

Wow, I'm finally done reading through everything. There is a ton of info in here. Thanks to those that have performed the swaps and put sooo much effort into the swap and put info out there for everyone else to gain knowledge from. I am considering doing this swap as well, but I need to complete my Bullitt project first as I stated before. After seeing what shakin is going to put down with a turbo'ed 4v 5.4, it has seriously changed my mind on doing a 2v 5.4 swap since I like to drive what I build on the streets. I'm sure 500 hp/tq will easily be obtained with a built block and single turbo setup. Any more than that it's too much for the streets IMHO.

Dumb question, but I keep seeing IIRC pop up. What does that stand for? Thanks

 

If I Recall Correctly...IIRC

Still have a 98 Navi 2V 5.4 with 68K miles sitting in the garage if anyone wants cheap $500. Comes complete with every sensor/accessory/belt... North side of baltimore MD.. almost into PA.

 

500hp at the tires is pretty easy nowadays on a well set up 5.4 2v. turbo/blower/nitrous don't matter. Comes with a good bit more than 500tq normally though.

cobra1923's making a screamin deal there. Only costs about 200 bucks to ship an engine a good long way by freight.

 

I wish I had the money to pony up for Cobra's block (Chistmans is coming). That's a good deal. Just out of curiousity has anyone done this swap on a Bullitt? I'm very adamant about keeping my intake manifold that's why I'm not too crazy about doing the swap on my Bullitt. I'm sure adapter plates would work with my manifold, but then I'm looking at getting flow restrictions possibly. Plus I'm not sure where the power band will be since the Bullitt intake manifold has longer runners. It would be an awesome swap none the less. r3d would you have a guesstimate of where the power band would be with a swap like this of course adding a built bottom end, 76 trim hair dryer, stage 2 PI heads, and custom turbo ground cams?

Can you run two sims for me? One with the above setup running around 15#s and one with stock everything running 10-12#s. I'm thinking that the Hellion setup would fit with a little bit of elbow grease on one hot side pipe.

 

your bullit manifold will be almost inconsequential in terms of your power band with a t76 in place and the other mods you mentioned. It flows plenty well for a lot of HP so I wouldn't trip on that much. Adapter plates are not optimal but they'll do fine for you with pressurized air moving through. Would it be slightly better with maybe an HPS intake.. yeah proabably but if you want to keep the bullit intake, you'll be just as happy when you mash the go pedal so I say have at it.

Guessing power on that combo is terribly difficult. I can run a sim but the cam selection is vital on a turbo motor. If you can find the specs for the cam you expect to use then I can take a whack at a sim (which as we've discussed previously is only an educated guess itself) and probably get closer to the actual numbers you may see.

In any case you'll make plenty of power from the boost hit to redline.

 

k... did a few sims. With a proper cam and really nice ported PI heads you could see up around 500rwhp on 10#'s. 10psi seems to be a sweet spot as gains above that point in the sims were slow in coming. I was able to see some nice gains in the sim when I bumped your intake manifold flow a bit but I think overall head flow is holding it back after that. I also had to guess at your turbo specs so I used a pretty big turbo since it looks like you'll be running a single.

So figure with all the best goodies you should be able see that magical 500rwhp peak with a grotesquely vertical power ramp from 2000rpm to 6000rpm.

 

And finally... if a 500 dollar pop for a motor is nasty, wait till you get the bill for the exhaust. You'll fuggin faint.

 

[quote=r3dn3ck;355565]Just buy one of the sets being made available when they become available (soon)... modding them is a bitch of the highest order and ends up costing thousands if you can't do the welding yourself.

How soon is soon?

 

mine are under construction... so in theory you could call up and get em... or we can harang myillwillinc to see how long his guy would take.

 

Thanks for the SIMs. It gives me a good idea of what is possible with the above mentioned setup. Still not sure if I'll do that to the Bullitt. I still have a blower for the Bullitt, so I might finish that up real quick and pay it all off with the money I'll be receiving if I get a nice injury settlement out of a car accident. If that's the case then I'm going to find a high mileage GT and do the swap in it with the HPS intake.

Need some thoughts on this contemplation I'm having. Is it cheaper to build a short block or buy one outright from someone like MMR? I have no experience building a block and I wouldn't mind learning. I'm fairly mechanically inclined and I figure if I can read I can do the build myself minus the machine work and balancing. If I build my own (much more rewarding) I'll probably buy stage 2 heads with a custom ground trubo cam outright from a reliable shop (modular powerhouse probably) and put it together myself. If it's going to cost the same I might as well have someone build it and send it to me (not as rewarding). If I decide to build my own I'll make it the infamous r3dn3ck special 5.5L and I can build it a piece at a time while I'm finishing up the Bullitt. Soooo, many choices...my head is going to explode. I would really like to dive right in and build my own to get my boy scout engine building badge, lol. If I build it seems that a 00-01 block is the ticket as far as weight goes from what I read. Is there any other benefits from one year to the next other than weight?

 

buying one already done up is usually cheaper if you're going for a built motor. MMR's work was ok, their communication lacked a little and they took longer than I'd have liked but the engine was right when I got it.

Buying the parts and then assembling them is great for broke asses like me that needed to stretch out the schedule a bit but if you can swing a $2-3K pop you can have a mighty strong motor. You should pick up a used, even scrap, longblock to yank little bits like timing cover, reluctor wheel, lower timing gears, dowel pins and such from... you also end up with a mock-up motor which is worth its weight in gold for making sure things will work the first time.

Boring it .020 over like I and many others is a pretty good plan. Builds up the CID, helps unshroud the intake valve a bit and effectively gives you brand new cylinder walls. Might as well eh.

Before you decide on anything, decide what power level you want. We can certainly give you a parts list that will make it cheap and easy to deal with.

I would NOT assemble your own bottom end. Leave it to the guys that do modulars every day. It requires a lot of special tools to do as good a job as the pros. Guys like assassinator that know engines back and forth have an easier time of it but the manual does not replace experience.

 

GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!!!!!!!






j/k i was gonna do a 4v bored and stroked to a 6.0L with twin 62mm hairdryers. but decided that it would do nothing more then roast tires everytime i gave it any gas....

 

Duelly noted! Thanks! I plan on building a single turbo 500rwhp/???rwtq street beast. I know torque will be a lot higher. If the RWHP falls under 500 I'm cool with that, too. I definitely want to hit 500rwtq. Also, a t-56 w/ stock 3.27s will be nice for get up and go without spinning like crazy plus doing decent rpms on the highway in 6th gear.

I wish I had 2-3k to drop on a built motor.

 

ya... after i found out how huge my numbers were going to be i was like wow.... i should of just stayed 2 valve and had that broad torque curve.... would of been cheaper and easier to do... but since i have the heads ported polished and built.... would cost me as much to go back to 2 valve as it would to just finish this project... so im continuing on with the 4 valve... looking at a boss intake now... may get rid of the sullivan....

 

My F150 5.4 2v will be for sale if anyone near me is thinking of swapping. Runs strong but is burning a little oil, should be an easy fix. Can include adapter plates if interested, I have one set left that just needs a little work to be ready. I'm thinking around $600 for complete motor minus exhaust, accesories, and throttle body and elbow.