Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
Modular 4.6L TechFor all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.
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Yup, thats what I was remembering, you've got a little bit of taper/radius, but the tall sharp edges are going to inhibit flow from the sides. I'd either cut them down to around 1/4", lay them back, and epoxy around the outsides, or just grind/mill the little stacks out completely. My questions there, though, would be is there enough meat in the casting to then create a decent radius without breaking through.....
the towers themselves aren't thick enough at the bases to make a good radius of their own accord but a little epoxy massage oil could fix that.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
so now that you have it bolted on, i'm wondering, how tall is it compared to the factory intake? i ask because i've got a 2V with a custom brackets and a factory mach shaker setup. so i'm wondering what mods i'll need to do to make if fit.
so now that you have it bolted on, i'm wondering, how tall is it compared to the factory intake? i ask because i've got a 2V with a custom brackets and a factory mach shaker setup. so i'm wondering what mods i'll need to do to make if fit.
i think it actually sits just slightly shorter than the stock intake, i have the nx plate on the car that goes between the upper plenum and manifold and it still didn't even touch the padding on the underside of the hood, the 4.6 pi manifold just barely touched the padding with the plate
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TEA headed
Modularpower house cam'd
nitrous fed
5.5l 2v
and that might just allow 4.6 2v strut tower braces to work. Hood clearance was one of the things bob and I beat against for hours on the phone getting it sorted out. Glad it worked like I thought it would.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
since i finally remembered my login and pw i had one more question for you 5.4 guys. i did indeed read every single post of this thread but i can't remember if i saw this answered or not. will a JLT cold-air intake still fit with the wider block? even with the 4.6 some people has slight fitment issues since it bumps up against the oil fill cap on some models. and if it dosen't fit, which CAI would you guys that have already done the swap recomend?
since i finally remembered my login and pw i had one more question for you 5.4 guys. i did indeed read every single post of this thread but i can't remember if i saw this answered or not. will a JLT cold-air intake still fit with the wider block? even with the 4.6 some people has slight fitment issues since it bumps up against the oil fill cap on some models. and if it dosen't fit, which CAI would you guys that have already done the swap recomend?
Cant answer for all but on mine, with the JLT it hit the hood. It would close mind you, but it was in a bind, but wasnt bad. Had I kept the car, I would have just clearanced the hood a little(was in a support brace IIRC)
after thought about the intake that might be a good optional upgrade for it
put blow out plugs in it incase of nitrous backfire...because with a forged bottom end and big nitrous an accident is inevitable if you live long enough
a standard sized freeze plug or something like that with like 3-4 in the underside of the intake so that the blast blows out the plugs and into the valley instead of blowing up the intake/throttle body/maf or screwing up other stuff under the hood, i know the intake was built to withstand nitrous backfire but withstanding a 100/150 shot backfire is one thing, doing dual 200 stages etc is a little more risky
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TEA headed
Modularpower house cam'd
nitrous fed
5.5l 2v
Anyone want to make any guesses what a 5.4 with a pi intake and spacers and ford racing shorty headers will make with a 125 wet shot from a zex kit? May do this just for now. Do u guys think the shot will be to big and need to bring it down?
We already know about what it'll make from anecdotal references. shorty headers won't help pretty much at all. So with stock heads and cams you should see probably 220-250rwhp and 330-350tq with typical bolt on's and a PI intake on adapter plates. Add ported heads and cams and a aftermarket intake on those plates and you'll see 260-280rwhp.
Add the 125 shot and you should see 350rwhp and around 475-500rwtq. Have a good clutch.
Don't waste time on adapter plates. That's almost half the cost of the intake right there. Save for 2 more months and you'll have the HPS intake and plenty of clearance and no adapter plates messing up the air which = more power.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
First off, thanks to all who basically pioneered this 5.4 idea. I have read about half way through this thread, and decided a 5.4 is definetly for me. It will be a slow buildup, but when it is done, it will be done right. I know its been said before, but what type of forged pistons/rods should i go with, and where should i look for them? I would like your opinions, because you obviously know what you are doing. Thanks
kinda depends on how much power you plan on making. different parts are best for different applications. For the average street oriented build-up, call up TMD (951) 369-0200 and ask for their h-beam and mahle piston deal. Comes with rings.
The thanks goes to turbox2 for pioneering the swap. Without some of his initial efforts we'd have never gotten this far.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
Thanks. I am planning on turboing it after i get it built. But i have none of the parts now, so i would be startin from scratch. I plan on buyin the new block from kar kraft shortly, then savin up for the forged internals.
friendly advice...just buy a used complete 5.4 longblock with front cover. It'll save you a few hassles and you can usually find a rebuild-able one for <1000 bucks at local salvage yards. make sure it didn't throw a rod.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
We already know about what it'll make from anecdotal references. shorty headers won't help pretty much at all. So with stock heads and cams you should see probably 220-250rwhp and 330-350tq with typical bolt on's and a PI intake on adapter plates. Add ported heads and cams and a aftermarket intake on those plates and you'll see 260-280rwhp.
Add the 125 shot and you should see 350rwhp and around 475-500rwtq. Have a good clutch.
Don't waste time on adapter plates. That's almost half the cost of the intake right there. Save for 2 more months and you'll have the HPS intake and plenty of clearance and no adapter plates messing up the air which = more power.
yea i already knew what it would make on the motor. i have the adapter plates already and just planed on porting them. i was kinda thinking about getting the victor jr. intake for the 4.6 and try it out on the 5.4
i was hopeing for more hp with the 125 shot but ill take what i can get.
also i have a spec stage 3 clutch so it should hold.
Also i dont want shorttubes but dont want to go through all the trouble of makeing longtubes fit so im just gonna bite the bullet and think about how much less trouble the shorties will be.
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