Anyone intrested in 5.4L swaps, in here. Need you to opine.
Modular 4.6L TechFor all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.
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Pics of what will top my already installed 5.4l in the '96
The 5.4l is a new block stock bore/stroke
Steel crank
Aftermarket rods
Stock flat top pistons/rings
Steen racing NON-PI heads
Stock PI cams
Frpp shotie headers
EGR delete
H-pipe
Thrush mufflers (quiet)
The Holley carb'd blower is a 144(2.4l) with a 2.75" pulley
Intercooled intake
6.75" drive pulley
The alt had to come from a Cobra. They are the skinny alternators. Should have been used in the design of the HPS intake. An entire 1" of space could have been used compare to the stock atl.
What I need is a heat exchanger, intercooler pump, SCT programer, fuel pressure regulator.
The install is fairly basic and not built for the S/c, but whats a man to do with no aftermarket made parts. I'm not looking for all out HP, just a fun build. The s/c was added to the list when an intake was impossible for the engines.
What you guys think? If I've over looked something let me know.
Last edited by 96blackgt54; 09-13-2008 at 05:48 AM..
well, when bob called me around 3pm yesterday he had the three prototypes in his hand and was test fitting them the make sure they fit then i hope i'll see them mid week.......
well, when bob called me around 3pm yesterday he had the three prototypes in his hand and was test fitting them the make sure they fit then i hope i'll see them mid week.......
woo getting exciting now!!! cant wait to see it and hear how it goes on the dyno!!! Do we have a stock 2v 5.4l set up for a dyno run so we know what to expect if its a stock setup ???
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Steven Schildt
My Swap 3.8L v6 to 4.6L SOHC V8 - (DEAD) 5.4L SOHC v8 Bored .030 Over - Running
ok noob question you guys probably answered somewhere in this mess of like 1500 posts. So you guys recommend doing this with a 2 valve as apposed to a 4, but anybody tried this with a 3 valve?Same complications as a 4 valve?
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Yeah I kno, get a GT heard ya the first time,
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackThe Ripper
I refuse to look at the s!@# in my toilet and reflect on what a wonderful lunch it was yesterday.
we recommend no such thing. 2v is the simplest for a 2v v8 car to start with. That's all. And there's 4,839 posts. Give credit where credit is due.
lol,
I thought about the 3 valve option, but the 3 valve was just as expensive to do as the 4v, and you would need a 3 valve 5.4 timing cover in stead of the usuall and common 4v 5.4 timing cover... So i went 4 valve.. also the parts are EVERYWHERE for 4 valves... so just seemed practical for me to do a 4 valve swap since the numbers are amazing on 4 valves.. but 3 valve is getting alot better
Plus no intake for 3 valves or intake adapters yet but im sure RR will make you some....
K i was just wondering saw a few 3 valve 5.4's on ebay and sry i dont know where i got 1500 posts from lol. oh and by recommend i ment if i was already commited to doing this which would be the easiest thats all
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Yeah I kno, get a GT heard ya the first time,
Quote:
Originally Posted by JackThe Ripper
I refuse to look at the s!@# in my toilet and reflect on what a wonderful lunch it was yesterday.
just bustin yer ballz. In any case a well done 3v could be worth a lot of power in a compact head package but it's fraught with the perils of there being no support available for you really. 2v is cheap and plenty fun, 4v is the beez kneez but it's costlier. Power returns with 4v can get nasty.
For the average guy, I recommend 4v if you can afford it. Otherwise, 2v. In a year or so maybe a 3v intake will be available and then I'll just outright say, go 3v.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
now with bob making the magic happen all u need for a 2v swap is the intake. 800 bucks might seen alot , but when you look at how one $800 part can make the swap happen it doesn't seem all that bad...
2 valve is the way i should have went... the power gains from a 4 valve are ridiculous... and a 2 valve would of been sufficient for alot less money.. i should of stayed 2 valve lol
my twin turbo'd 4 valve is going to produce more power then i really wanted.. roughly on 10 pounds of boost abotu 700HP with twin turbos... is what im looking at... little higher then i was wanting but ohh well i guess...
Do the budget build, N/A with that intake and longtubes, and you will have a quick car for a good price... a damn good price...
R3D and them have done alot of work to get parts and pieces, and there is enough of us that check this forum everyday that can help you out as well... and i have some spare 2 valve pieces around my house if anyone needs them i will sell to you for same price i bought them for... i got some FRPP headers, 2 valve timing cover, and tensioner.. some other bits and pieces too.. holor at me if you need something but those are the big pieces to get...
So if you do the swap just holor at one of us and we can help you out
I can send you the link if you shoot me your email address to a solid 5.4 build as well. this guy did his super cheap as well and loves it..
woo getting exciting now!!! cant wait to see it and hear how it goes on the dyno!!! Do we have a stock 2v 5.4l set up for a dyno run so we know what to expect if its a stock setup ???
Mine untuned made 270/370 IIRC. I never did get it tuned on motor, but on a 75 shot ended up with 370/495, I finally had it bumped up to a 200 shot and it made mid 500's and around 650rwtq(made right at 625rwtq on a 175 IIRC, so may have been higher I cant remember). FWIW, anyone who says these things want hold power, mine held a full dyno pull on a 175 shot with NO extra fuel(had a clogged fuel jet).
Not bad for ALL stock parts. I think I eventually had a tb, cai and plenum on the car. With a proper tune, more timing and racegas Id guess it would have made 570/700tq. Friggin nuts on a truely stock 2v with a small 200 shot IMO. Would probaly have made 300/400 on motor.
Mine untuned made 270/370 IIRC. I never did get it tuned on motor, but on a 75 shot ended up with 370/495, I finally had it bumped up to a 200 shot and it made mid 500's and around 650rwtq(made right at 625rwtq on a 175 IIRC, so may have been higher I cant remember). FWIW, anyone who says these things want hold power, mine held a full dyno pull on a 175 shot with NO extra fuel(had a clogged fuel jet).
Not bad for ALL stock parts. I think I eventually had a tb, cai and plenum on the car. With a proper tune, more timing and racegas Id guess it would have made 570/700tq. Friggin nuts on a truely stock 2v with a small 200 shot IMO. Would probaly have made 300/400 on motor.
More importent than the peak numbers, IMO, can you recall what it make at say 2000, 3000, 4000? My 4.6 is great and it's almost stock at 225hp ('98 Mustang GT). It would be a near perfect street/strip car to me if it had ~300+ wheel hp and ~375-400 wheel ft-lbs. Numbers I am sure a 5.4 2V can exceed with CNC heads, specific purpose designed cams and a full proper intake package and headers. By 5000-5500 rpm I don't care anymore because on the street it's difficult to get to those revs.
More importent than the peak numbers, IMO, can you recall what it make at say 2000, 3000, 4000? My 4.6 is great and it's almost stock at 225hp ('98 Mustang GT). It would be a near perfect street/strip car to me if it had ~300+ wheel hp and ~375-400 wheel ft-lbs. Numbers I am sure a 5.4 2V can exceed with CNC heads, specific purpose designed cams and a full proper intake package and headers. By 5000-5500 rpm I don't care anymore because on the street it's difficult to get to those revs.
Honestly, all the motor runs were DONE by 4400, DONE. Made peak hp somewhere around 38-3900. On nitrous moved the peak to around 47-4800. I am trying to go by memory here(as Ive had a few other cars since then). The SINGLE BIGGEST and BEST bolton a 5.4 needs is A DIFF INTAKE. I cant stress that enough! I never installed one(PI and adapter plates) and for a while I thought I had hit a wall(stopped making more hp on the nitrous) but it turned out to be another issue. However, and I cant stress this enough you do need an intake you will want to atleast still be making some power at 5500, mine dropped like a ROCK after peak, to the point it sucked
myillwill, I had a high comp 5.4 stock shortblock out of a navi(true flat tops), full exhaust minus stock headers. Really not much at all. And that was untuned with an A/F of 10 or so. I leanred two things with that engine swap. A 5.4 LOVES compression and nitrous. Im sure the high comp made the n20 that much better.
A thing to point out was I had a badass nitrous setup. I had a tnt nozzle setup, BIG NX seliniods, standalone fuel system for nitrous(custom fuel cell, supra intank pump, aeromotive regulator and all -6 braided lines) The largest jet I had was a drilled out set of 175's(so it could have been a 225 shot for all I know). I sold the car shortly after making the last dyno pulls when everything was finally working correctly
with shorty headers, cams, ported heads and 4.6 HPS intake and ported plates my peak power moved out to 5000-5200rpm from the normal 38-3900 and peak tq moved to 3750-4000 from the typical 2900.
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Built 5.5L 2v and Maximum Motorsports Max Grip box. www.squarerootofone.com
It has come time to part ways with my ride and find something better fitting for year-round driving and occasional trips to the racetrack. I have my car listed over in the classifides if anyone is interested in a nicely built up 5.4L car that still handles well.
for the guys doing the swap and looking at exhaust. the mac prochamber for 99-04 is a direct fit, no cutting or bending needed. i put sleepingGT's on with no issues, just put it all up the loose and tighten the bolts from the front to the back and it fits perectly with no leaks i can see.
5.4L SOHC v8 Bored .030 Over - Running
lol 
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