Wow am I glad I found this thread! I have 1996 Mustang GT with well over 150k miles on it. She's running strong but just recently started burning just a tad bit of oil. Instead of going with built 4.6 I am gonna go with the 5.4!

I know this doesn't go in line with the theme of this thread, but since I am going to be building the 5.4 does anyone know how much I can bore out the cylinders and still be safe? Would it be possible to punch it out to say a 6.0??

I am very excited after reading this thread as I was looking at building a stroker 4.6. Now I want all the 5.4 goodness I can get

 

It's totally in line with the thread. I'm doing a high compression blower motor, others are building up what they want too. The 2V part is what we're most concerned with as that's the crux of this being an easy swap. We try to stay off the 4V discussion much (but 4V guys are totally welcome to come and chat... it's still 5.4 in a stang) just to keep the topic fresh and useful.

Yes, you can punch it out to 6.0L, there's a couple kits on the market but you're getting kinda deep into boring at that point (more on this in a second), and the heads are really maxed out at 5.4L so it really makes the most sense to do 6.0L in a 4V. Still, you'll get a boost out of it in tq production no matter what.

The other downside to doing the poke and punch to 6.0 is that the crank throw and rods are are already pretty long and you'd be stretching it even further to where it affects cylinder longevity as it will tend to exacerbate the issue of cylinder side-wall wear that we deal with anyway thanks to the long rod.

I'd avoid punching it more than .030 over. I hear a lot of reports of heat issues with more than that. Still at 30 over you've got 336cid which is plenty in a high revving engine that can easily break the tires loose in 3rd gear as it sits.

I've got a thread in the classified section for a group purchase for rods and pistons. You'll never get a deal like this on the rods so if you're serious, jump on it while you can. The pistons haven't had any takers so I'm about to pull them from the offerings list.

 

Man... I wished I had the money right now. I have got some calls in to several local wrecking yards to see what they have available. If I can get into this for what you guys were buying your motors for. Man, I can just imagine the possibilities!

 

Found me 1997 5.4L for $150. Quoted me as $80-$90 shipped. This is the shortblock. Looks like I may be joining the club "soon"!!!

 

Also, for those of you looking for used engines, check car-part.com .

 

JFOR441, you will not be disappointed with the 5.4, good HP and lots of TQ. Some cams and heads and it's even better.

I put in for Korea, so I can get out of Shaw AFB and go to another place that i like better. It wasn't to bad last time i was there. also i was a weapons troop on the F-16's and now i'll be going back working on phones, so my hours won't be so crazy or crazy long.

If i'm here next year and and it's planned to meet up, i'm down for it. Kentucky would be nice and closer.

 

i am boring mine right now for .20 over and thats all i would go with if your gonna really run it alot. the walls will have enought metal in them to keep it together and not warp or over heat. but .30 would be cool if you keep an eye on it. i'm all for a meet. tn or ky would be easier on me but i'll still try to make it. as for my number, i never really did any track times or dyno. just never got to finish it for that. this time tho i'm gonna do it all up front and see what comes from it. so far i have probe .20" forged slugs, zoom aluminium flywheel, new PI heads, miezere electric water pump, heavy duty steel crank. possibly a blower and cams if money comes thru.

 

Now that you've got a block, buy a set of rods. 265 for a set of forged H beams.. you can't touch that. Deal goes away in a week or two.

Check the ad in the classifieds.

 

I know the intake is different from the 4.6 to the 5.4. I currently have a KB on my 4.6. If I do this swap I wouldn't be able to use my KB, right? I read something about adapting the intakes to work with the 5.4 but I don't know if that is really the best way to go. What is your opinion on this? Anyone? Sell the KB?

 

Keep the KB.... don't make me come over there and say mean things to you by selling it.

The adapter plates are good for this. Or, you can buy a lightning lower intake which should make the whole thing really easy. I'd call KB and ask them how much it'll take. No matter what you'll still have traction issues in 4th gear.

Oh yeah... don't supercharge on the stock rods. You'll just end up shooting one out the side. The stock rods are fine for trucks but not for hot rods with power adders.

 

I e-mailed Reichard Racing about the adaptor plates working with Kenne Bell. I didn't get an answer, but I would say theoretically yes. Since the Kenne Bell fits with stock heads, it "mimics", if you will, the intake. Therefore, since the adaptor plates fit from 4.6 intake to heads in a 5.4 (again, same heads, just further apart) is SHOULD work. Emphasis on the should. I would like to hear from Reichard about compatability, and I would personally be concerned about the extra gaps under compression, but I guess you could always get gaskets customed fabbed if you need to make it work. Since you have the stock hood I assume you got the 1.7L kit. Just out of curiosity, 6 psi or 9psi intercooled?

As far as bore, I was also curious about how far out you could safely take is, I was a little curious myself. Since it's essentially the same as a 4.6, I didn't assume it would be much, the 4.6 isnt popular for overboring either. Another thing I was curious about would be for a forced induction application, could shorter rods be ordered to help lower compression? I understand dished pistons are a better way to go, but if trying to push upwards of 15psi and the pistons only get you to say 8.5 compression because of the longer stroke. I know this will sacrifice TQ, but if your still over 300 cid and supercharged? It'd essentially still be a stroked 4.6 to a lesser degree.

 

The RR plates would certainly work. No question in my mind. The added runner length won't hurt power much if at all.

It would be much easier and cheaper to just get a deeper dish in the pistons.. like 23cc instead of 18. Shortening the rod would be a way to increase displacement but that would probably also yank the piston skirt right out of the bore and you'll hate that.

You can run 15psi on 8.5:1 all you want.. you just have to build the rest of the motor to handle it. Lots of lightning guys run upwards of 20psi on 8.5:1 though engine life is shortened somewhat, it'll still run. Another downside to shorter rods is that the piston would not be able to force all the exhaust gasses out of the cylinder efficiently and you'd end up with seriously comprimised power production due to the fouled air charge (that'll also lower temeratures which is actually good for the motor to a point).

All in all, not the way to go. For lower compression, just get a deeper dish, or stay at 8.5 cuz that's all you'll need.

 

Do ya'll know of any other links to message boards where guys are doing the 5.4 swap? Only other thing I have found concerning a 5.4 swap was way back in 2002 and it 4v 5.4.

 

We are basically authoritative on the subject right now. Other boards tended to poo-poo the idea because we weren't focusing on 4V but it really caught on here with the 2v.

Pretty much any of the boards will have one of my threads on the subject but this is where you'll find the most info as far as I can find.

 

the only other i know of is modular depot under the 5.4 thread, but it aint as good as this one imho....i did a google search to find this thread and then i joined the site

 

I have the 9psi kit intercooled. I love the power but I know that I will need a new SB eventually so I figured I may as well go with the 5.4.

 

stop it ... I'm gettin wood just readin that.

 

Of course, if your doing a rebuild or new block, why not go 5.4. If the plates work and you jump on r3dn3ck's rod and piston sale (or just rods), you have a rotating assembly ready to go. If the 9 psi kit is rated for an extra 160 HP at the wheels (405 with NO OTHER MODS), and 135 lbs TQ (427), I'm just imagining a 5.4 at 9 psi w/ headers, o/r X, and catback. Heck, a Cobra/Mach 1 take off is good to 560 HP, imagine an SLP, 75mm TB, and suspension and tires to handle it. And if you could still hide it under the stock hood? Excuse me, I'm picturing all the ricers in shock...

 

sorry for not being too up on this offer yet. This thread is forever long and I didn't read the whole thing. Tell me what I need to get. I know rods are a must, what pistons should I get? Where should I get a block? Can I get one that is already built? Sorry for all the questions but........well, I'm sure you can understand. I have moved from the WANT stage to the NEED stage and that is a dangerous thing.

 

here the articles from the magizines i scanned for a forum in my area. like i said i'll answer any questions you have have about my swap.
link: http://forums.qwiksnake.com/faq.php?...em#faq_54_swap

i doubt you need to be a member of this board to view the info.

 

You can buy a complete motor or just a block or a short block.

Pistons are up to your combo choice. I'd go with forged stock replacements like TRW L2608F or any other good forged piston in the appropriate bore size. You'll probably have to do an overbore if you get a used block and that'll dictate what piston you have to buy. Don't overbore more than .030 over. You'll have heat problems.

Rods, check out my GP in the classified. They're good rods at a screaming price. You can get higher end rods if you're looking for mega-hp but those will do until you hit about 650-700 or so. For 265 a set you can't go too wrong. Hell they're even 4340 not 5140 so they're not a "cheap" rod.

Block from any ol' wrecking yard or MMR.

Call up reichard racing for a set of plates, and get a 8 bolt clutch and flywheel. After that... it's pretty much a short block replacement that bolts right up.

 

thanks for all the info. Sounds like a pretty easy swap. I just have to get the funds up to get it going now.

 

like the rest of us... one piece at a time makes it hurt less.

 

my motor went south when i loaned it to a so-called friend. here are what pics i have from the original swap 2 years ago. i'll take pics of my build and install this time around.

 

dude went out and beat on it did he... that's a shame.

 

he did more then beat on it. he broke a rod and kept driving till he got to work a mile or two away.

 

So this guy is paying for the short block right? I would be P O'd if he broke my car and didn't at least offer to pay for some of it, if not all.

 

just imagine a fully forged DSS 5.4 w/ patriot stage II heads , holding a set of comp cams stage II cams xe270's, a bullitt intake, mac headers, dr gas x-pipe and 2 chamber flows.....with a D1SC putting out 14-16#'s boost and a 75 shot of the go-go juice for fun......

wait a minute, its gonna be a reality!!!!!!!!!!

 

With that much power, would you even feel the 75 shot?

 

i dunno...i got 3 friends with 03-04 cobra's 2 whipple'sand 1 bell,
1 whipple...625hp/595tq
1 bell...640hp/610tq
1whipple...615hp/580tq....on a 50 shot....680hp/720tq

i want them to laugh at it, smoke them, then look at thier face