Damn you must never let out of the gas because i know i don't and i get constantly 17-19 city with 3:73s.

 

I think it was MSD that make a distributor for modulars, but if i remember correctley, it wasn't cheap. looked cool though where it sat.
Yeah i'm definitley sticking to lower than 270 cams, my luck i would have PTV problems and i it's to radical for me. i thought about the 262 also.

 

hey dude, a guy make a thread about you screwing him over. You need to get that cleared up before you post anywhere

 

SpeedDemon

LOL..I obey the traffic signs all the time...yeah. It's my boots that are heavy and makes the pedal go down.....

 

And you run this site???

A. He apologized cause he got his money back and told me that i'm great help and hope we can get by this.
B. I'm out of lights and money, which i'm still checking on at the post office.
C. What's it to you?
D. He's still a ***hole to me.

Cool?

 

Is he bad mouthing me again somewhere? again?? probably cause I gave him negative feedback on ebay, owell, he gave me a negative too, though he gained on it..

ALSO you can message me, this is about 5.4's k?

I checked buyer/seller reps and didn't see anything. know about it before you speak about it.

oh and don't worry, if you ask for help, i'll ignore it.

 

on the sullivan intakes for a 5.4. they make a intake elbow that goes forward for the carb intake. also the intake has the spots for injectors youjust have to tell them that you are going injected and my friends came ready to bolt all the FI equipment on.

 

Yes mine too. and if i didn't have to get up so early to be to work.

 

Well i finally got my motor stripped down to the block. Now i just need to save some money for pistons so i can go and have the block cleaned, bored and honed. One of my friends recommended that i wait to get my pistons before i had the block bored so the machine shop can match it perfectly.

The block is in great shape! I was told the motor was seized but when i was tearing it down i was able to turn the crank. I did notice some metal shaving from the main cap bearings but everything elsed looked great. Just thought i would give an update it's coming slowly but surely. Wanna make sure i do it right the first time.

Oh and thanks for the help Saleen S330 stripping the block.

 

Any time bro! Stuff like that is fun for me

 

This might have been covered before. Has anyone put LT headers on to the 5.4 or do they even bolt up to the 5.4? If so, which ones did you use?

 

DannyB... I don't want little fights starting in my thread. This is a place to share progress and tech help on 5.4L swaps, not to impune the reputation of one of the better people I've come across here. I'll be the police in this thread, the mods can be the judges. Everyone else is a guest. Please help us maintain that. This has been the best quality long running thread in a long time. Let's keep everything cordial. Nuff said on that.

I had similar bearing issues on one of my 5.4's that's waiting to go in for machine work. The #7 & #8 rod bearings on my 00' motor were chunking and badly worn. It hadn't scored the crank yet so I'lll probably get away with a polishing and new bearings.

This is beginning to be a repeating issue so for those that are building motors, I'd recommend investing in some upgraded crank, main and rod bearings if you plan on more than stock power (like cams, nitrous, blower, etc...).

My rods should be speeding on their way to my house now which leaves pistons. Who's up for a GP on Probe or Mahle slugs? With rings for <500.

Fitment on LT's would be tough but not impossible. I'm going with shorties just so I'm not using the stockers when I spray the motor.

 

If you can get pistons with rings for less than $500 i will try to figure out a way to get the money. How much power will they support though? Let me know.

Also I'm sure it's been said but is the crank out of a 2002 forged or no?

 

CRANKS
Ford has used two different cranks in the 5.4L, a steel forging and a cast iron version. Both have an eight bolt flange for the flywheel.


1997-’98 SOHC
The original steel crank came with a F75-E, F75-1E or F75E-AE forging number. These cranks are easy to spot because they have an eight-bolt flange and bull-nosed counterweights instead of the knife-edged ones found on the 4.6L Windsor cranks.

1999-’02 SOHC
The steel crank was replaced by a cast iron crank for all the SOHC engines (except the Lightning pickups) in ’99. It’s a XL3E-BA casting that has bull-nosed counterweights, too.

To bad they still don't come with the steel cranks.

Thank you R3dn3ck

And longtubes, maybe possible, it's a tight fit already.

 

Damn because i was thinking about reusing my stock crank guess i will have to buy a new one. I want a forged one.

 

everybody doing a 5.4 buildup please take pictures along the way as you progress thru the process of building yours. i will put on my webpage all these buildups so that people can see what everybody had to do for this project.
i have everything but my block, so i'm taking pics as i go to show it as i put it together.

 

I've been snapping a few shots here and there so far. I'll start doing it more documentary style. Good plan.

Twin, I don't see any reason to go to a forged crank unless you're planning on obscene power levels. The cranks are pretty stout even in cast form.

 

ford told me the steel crank is good for close to 700hp. that should be enough for most everybody. the navi crank is good for 1300hp. there shouldn't be a need for anything better then that.

 

BTW... it's not an if, I already have the price. I just need 5 peeps to buy slugs for 4.6/5.4 and we can all have them for less than 5 bills.

Scrape the moolah. I'm scraping mine up.

 

Are they the same pistons from before? If not exactly how much so i know what to save.

That's the forged steel crank though right? Mine is the cast aluminum so i want to replace it. Ford Racing Parts has one for $350 so that's not too bad. I am planning on putting some boost to the motor and i just want to be safe and have no worries.

 

your crank is NOT cast alum. not sure where you heard that but it is not alum.

 

OOOps meant cast iron. :bash:

 

nonetheless, your cast iron or a steel crank are good to HP levels that you'll have a hard time ever coming close to. I've never once heard of a crank snapping. Usually the main caps will walk or you'll break a rod bolt first. Don't worry about a hot crank until you really really really have to. The stock cranks are disgustingly strong even in cast form.

 

now then... oh happy day. I just got my latest part for the 5.4 swap. Are you ready for this? Are you sure.. I'm hella stoked about it myself.

Yesterday I got myself a new clutch. It's a dual friction Kevlar clutch rated to 700tq. These units are designed and spec'd by my tuner for use on really hard driven cars with lots of power. nobody even carries them as a retail part.. totally custom spec'd. You can haze the crap out of it and it's ok, you can launch on it, tow with it, whatever. Normally these are hand made 1 at a time and come out at 650 bucks each plus install. I got mine for 150 from a friend of mine. He didn't like the way it engaged (all of a sudden like) and it's got fairly stout pedal pressure that he was not down with. He put maybe 1000 miles on it, then swapped for a King Cobra. We had it gone over by the guy that builds them... he checked it out and said it was too close to new to tell much of a difference and blessed it for reinstall so it's going on my 5.4L. Best part is, replaceable kevlar friction material. never buy a new clutch, just replace the kevlar.

I also picked up 10 feet of FREE -6AN braided line. A 100 dollar value, mine for only nothing.

 

Okay well since i don't need to replace it how much would it be to have it freshned up a bit. Whatever they do to them. And where would i take it.

 

usually a polishing and oil hole chamfering is sufficient to consider it fresh but if the wear is too much then they'll undercut it .010. Usually the charge for such things is under a 100 bucks and you can have your favorite local engine machining concern take care of it. Whereever you go to get the cylinders cut, they'll be able to polish or turn the crank.

 

new info from a racer pal of mine. he recommends that we use H bearings in the mains and rods so we don't end up with the 5.4 knock. The long rod and big stroke is beating the bearings out of too many engines so i figured you guys that are building motors could use some advice there.

H bearings are just hard versions of standard bearings. they'll usually have an H after the part number. Contact your local engine shop to see if they can find some for you.

Summit has them as well. Here are a couple part numbers that may or may not suit your application.
FEM-8-7250CH
FEM-148M

 

Sounds good i will give the machine shop a call and see if they do that too.

So what's up with the pistons are they the same deal from the first ones or something new? And if it's a different deal then exactly how much?

 

Never mind that last post r3dn3ck i just saw the classifieds i will see what i can do.

I just talked to the machine shop and they said $25 for a polish on the crank and if they need to turn the crank it will be around $85 so they said they would take a look at it and see what needed to be done i think i'll swing by after work.

 

if it's still mostly shiny then you'll probably only need a polishing. If you can see or feel scoring or roughness, it'll have to be turned.