well get some stickies, add some juice, and lay into it.......

 

[QUOTE=chip6990]well get some stickies, add some juice, and lay into it.......

Sounds good to me..

 

Well I finally got a chance to inspect my bores in all my blocks so I could pick one. I've got 1 block with a good solid standard bore so I'll be starting the assembly over the next few weeks.

Heads are being ported and I'm still wating for rods and my new valves and springs. I can't wait.

 

take pix and keep us posted

 

Sweet! I can't wait either.

 

any updates on the numbers these motors are puttin out?? looking into a 324 bb but after reading all 14 pages of this looks like a 5.4 would be a better option....what exact crank in the 5.4 is forged...also would vt stage 2 cams be a good selection?? any more information would be greatly appreciated

 

After i finish my dyno tune, i will post some numbers up. Should be around 300HP to the wheels and around 380 TQ to the wheels when i'm done. But I have bolt on's and stage 2 heads.
If you had it stock, it would pump out around (depends on auto or manual) for manual 230 HP and 330 TQ. Almost like the 4.6 HP but bigger TQ gains from the 5.4 They come with cast cranks now, when they first came out they weren't. I was told not to go over 450HP to the wheels on the stock internals.
Also the stage 2 cams would be great, i don't think you have to worry about the PTV issue on that. i plan on getting some non pi comp cams 102300.
And if you get a block, get an 2002 and up block.
324BB??

 

324bb is a big bore 4.6....i would use a newer block....just don't know where to get a forged rotating assembly..would have the vt stage 2's or 3's....and worked over heads...either fox lake or TEA....have all the boltons already to go on another motor....was looking at either an intake from hpturbos or a kenne bell 2.2

 

man i should have never opened this thread... Now i am seriously thinking about doing this... how about this engine??? with some cams.....


brand new 4 valve dohc 5.4 for 3300
probably would have trouble closing the hood

 

What year(s) and model did the 5.4l/2v come standard on?

 

They first came out in 1997 in the F-150's then later in the Expeditons and Navigators(4V) and all the way till now, but now they have the 3V motors with 300 HP stock.

One thing i like about mine, it's not done dynotuned, and driving in second gear doing 30-35 MPH, if i lay on it, it will go sideways easily and i have 295 meats on the rear!! And it's a heavy A$$ convertible!! with half atank of gas.....

 

what is that motor out of a navi 5.4 4V? $3300? dont sound right...too cheap

 

yep navigator engine brand new here is the link- they highered it to 3400 now

http://karkraft.com/new_engines.htm

 

just a lil out of my $$$ range

 

yeah its a bit expensive, but it also a brand new engine, i would do this but i want the internals to be forged so i am just going to build up my motor

 

Why not go with a built SVT block for 3K?

http://karkraft.com/long_blocks.htm

 

01gtblown....i just read your sig.....i am afraid to ask what happened

 

How about the GT motor for "only" 45K. You know Kenne Bell made a supercharger upgrade for it. But seroiusly now, that gets back into the 2V-4V debate. While I could throw that in my car, A GT won't accept without computer changes. Not a bad site to watch, try and catch a deal on a motor take out, although without forged internals you'll prob end up rebuilding anyway, so you might as well get a locked one cheap since it's coming apart anyway. In that case, you might as well click on the used engines link. They currently have an 02 5.4L 4V for 2800 instead of 3500 for a new motor you plan to rebuild anyway. I find it a little odd they only have 4V 5.4s, then 4.6s, but maybe thats just timing. Not a bad find though.

 

like we've discussed at length, slapping a 4V 5.4 into a stang is quite possible but due to all the wire harness issues, doing it on anything but a car that started life as a 4V V8 is simply too much hassle. We're all in this for minimal effort and maximum returns. With minimal changes to anything a 2V will go right in. Soon all the intake worries will be crushed and we'll have a purpose built 5.4L mustang intake manifold. Reichard makes both 2V and 4V intake adapter plates though I don't know how much longer they'll have the 2V's available or if they even have any left now.

I wouldn't try to do much of anything on the stock internals. The number 1 cause of death to them stock is the rods giving out and poking holes all over the place. No power adders on those rods for me thank you. Build them up with cams and heads and bolt-on parts all you want but stay off the power adders until you at minimum replace the rods wtih something much stouter.

2800 for a used motor is a bit tall to me but I'm that way. I waited till I found a deal and got my motors for less than a 500 each. In one case, for 80 bucks. If you are ok with paying a little more for having it right now, cool. That's why 7-11 exists.

I chose to build my motor the first time for all I'm really ever going to want from it. Having a car that makes peak torque at moderate engine speeds makes for an extremely exciting ride. Just the thought of being traction limited into 4th gear gives me total wood. Imagine, cruising up a 18% grade in 5th gear with power to spare.

 

Thats by SpinMedia, i just thought it was funny as hell!! I'd go into more detail but i'll leave it alone...

 

good call.

 

thanx....i prefer you did?

 

I bought mine used, 10K miles on it for 1100 bucks and it's a 2003. After the intake and cams, i'll be done with her till she get's some more mileage on her, maybe 80K miles, then it's time to rebuild with forge internals and power adder.Yeah the 4V is a little to expensive for me,well... I could have went that route, but i would not have been done as soon as I was, and proabably less new parts that i bought while my stang was down for the 5.4 transplant, like tubular k member, all new hoses, new sensors, new radiator, new trannsmission, subframes new injectors, new intake, bla bla bla, ya know what i mean. And probably lots of stress. Like r3dn3ck said, 4V to 4V sure, not 2V to 4V.

 

Is there a company online that sells forged internal components and what not?

 

Can you use an aftermarket tubular k-member for a 4.6 for a 5.4? Has anyone done it?

 

Yes you can, i put a QA1 tubular k member in when i did my swap. The 5.4 is 25 pds heavier than the 4.6 and the tubular K dropped around 28 pounds.

 

There are hundreds of companies that retail forged internals for 5.4's. The 5.4 is the same bore as a 4.6 but a half inch taller with the necessary longer stroke crank and longer rods. Just like the 302 and 351 windsors. For rods, Manley makes a perfect H-beam that's plenty strong. You can use any piston you could use on a 4.6. The stock cranks are plenty strong for pretty much any power you're likely to see. If you need a forged crank to feel good they're about 350 bucks on ebay.

Not only can you use most aftermarket bolt-on parts for a 4.6 but, most bolt-on parts that would help a 4.6 make even bigger gains on a 5.4 thanks to the greater intake and exhaust flow needs of the very tall 5.4L cylinder. If you get a little bigger cam than the stock PI units it really really wakes them up.

 

Hey r3dn3ck, any idea what it would cost to have forged rods and pistons installed on a 4.6 2v?

I found H-beams on Summit, as well as pistons. Just curious what the bill to have them put in would be like.

 

it'll cost whatever your engine builder charges. It's going to cost me exactly zero since I'll do much of it myself. Figure it'll cost about 800 bucks for the average engine builder to do a really bang up job. You can do most of it yourself. It's not difficult to build a motor.

 

The common idea is not to swap your motor straight out, but get your 5.4 cheap, build it, then put it in once complete. As far as installing crank/rods/pistons yourself, like r3dn3ck said, easy. The motor should be drained, but keep some rags handy to clean everything anyway. All you need to do is unbolt the oil pan, and the crank is held in by caps spread across the block. remove the capscrews, lift the cap, and carefully raise the crank. This will pul the rods and pistons with. Romoving the wrist pin in the pistons seperates the rods and pistons, and two more cap screws per rod seperates them from the crank. Install in reverse order, making sure to lightly oil the crank, caps, rods, wrist pins, and pistons at contact points. Get your torque specs for the capscrews, r3dn3ck or saleen may know.