The Good news:

My GT is strapped down to a dynojet as I am typing this, finally getting tuned.
It has a forged short block, P&P'd heads, and Bullitt intake. It still has stock cams, air inlet and exhaust manifold, so we're not yet able to realize the full potential of the heads. The stock air inlet and exhaust manifold is very restrictive. My mechanic is telling me its getting around 240 rwhp / 265 rwtq. When I get the sheets, I'll post them. We talked about putting a CAI on it, but honestly, in 6 months, it'll have a procharger D1-SC, so I didn't want to waste the money and just keep it in the bank. I'll be doing mid length headers at the same time. I would have liked to have seen more power, but for an automatic, I'm certainly not dissappointed either.
Its a very solid engine with a 9:1 CR, and I'm shooting for 450-480 rwhp when the F/I is installed, so I've got my eyes on the end game. I've stuck to my game plan pretty well. The last upgrades I wanted done before adding on the power, were the brakes, full length SFCs and built rear end. So now it has Mach 1 brakes, MM C/C plates and SFCs and FRPP HD 31-spline LSD w/ 31-spline Moser axles.

The Bad news:

Against better judgement and the wise advice from R3d, when I had the P&P heads machined and valve job done, I didn't go with new lifters. I had a set of used ones thrown in trying as I could to cut corners and save some money. That was just stupid and now I have a lifter going out and Kirk is going to have to tear down the heads and replace them. So, I'll still end up buying new ones, along with the additional cost of labor to fix my bad, bad, bad decision.

 

sounds good... ya cant blame a fella for wanting to cut some corners here and there(especially with somethin so pricey) but if R3d recomends it, i'd go with it...

 

im just curious why the D1SC?

why not go with an F1-A? or an F1-R? you can get some wicked numbers with those, and especially since you have a forged motor, you could bump the boost up as high as you want it.

480 hp sounds good, but im just thinking it might not be enough for you

 

sucks that your valves took a dump on you but lessons are always learned hard. me i had my car back less than a day and i shredded a belt making a spirited U-turn.

i see that the D1SC from rpmoutlet <----(the devil) has kits for 4500-4800 i think they cost around that much. the D1 will make more than enough power for a tamed street machine.

i would get a KB 2.6H but to each his own. the KB 2.6 is really expensive once you figure in the costs of the 8 rib kit, 99 timing cover so you can run 18 psi, the intercooler and bigger heat exhanger and resevoir. all that stuff will make the cost of the D1 look real good.

running 450-480 hp will give you time to save some more money for a built tranny and the fuel system you will later need when you up the boost for the mid 500 and maybe 600 on some race fuel. the stock fuel system as in a single ford GT pump and 42# injectors with a 40 amp BAP should get you to 500's. 480hp in the auto is about 500-510 in a manual.

 

I got a brand new set of lifters that got the best of the best parts(everything hand chosen and hand assembled) Ill let them go if interested

 

We are doing the same build except Im using a 4v. Sucks with the valves but you live and learn. My biggest worry is the tranny as Im hoping that granny shifting will extend the life a bit.

 

My tranny is my biggest concern now. I'm just hoping it lasts long enough, 2-3 years at least, before it grenades. Everything else has been built, may end up with a TKO or something, who knows, hopefully won't have to deal with it for a while.

 

Thanks for the offer, we already ordered the parts yesterday.

 

Since you're already tearing it down, you should swap the cams out!

 

Valid point. I've been thinking about this all day since I read your post. Still waiting to hear from my mechanic concerning the current valve train.

My question atm is, would Comp XE262H cams work well if installed even though the air intake is restrictive and I don't have headers installed, or would I be wasting more money and time?

If installed, would they still be viable when I get the supercharger installed or would they need to be changed to something else?

I know they are a pretty mild, streetable cam, designed as a stock replacement, but can they be installed without changing the oem ford valve springs? I did a little searching trying to find the specs on stock Ford valve springs for a 2V, but no luck so far, I will continue my endeavor...

Comp XE262H specs: $589.95

Intake Duration: 224
Exhaust Duration: 232
Advertised Intake Duration: 262
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 270
Advertised Duration: 262 int./270 exh.
Intake Valve Lift: 0.500"
Exhaust Valve Lift: 0.500"
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.500 int./0.500 exh. lift
Lobe Separation: 114


What I don't want to do is make another huge mistake like before and get it done right this time and not cut any corners. Input and advice would be appreciated.

 

Email from my mechanic this morning...

"Skelly (my GT) had a bad lash adjuster cyl #8, exhaust valve.
In fact, the damn rocker had come off and was laying down off the valve, very scary.

we changed out the lash-adjuster and rocker also... put it together and it is quiet and runs on all 8, but there is a slight miss now and according to the computer, Injector #8 had a circuit malfunction code. I think it was damaged. I cleared the code but it has not thrown it again, although there still is a miss. I hope the damn exhaust valve did not get smacked by the piston. if that is the case, then your plans for cams and springs would come into play. if the injector is causing the cyl miss then I would hold off or if you want, change to crower stage 1 cams. these cams will and can use the OEM springs and hardware and they work considerably well for what they are. Just my 2 cents and with a blower @ 14PSI... will work well!"

He didn't need to tear down the heads yet and will be replacing the #8 injector monday, so pray for me and my engine

 

good luck

 

Well, fixed the cyl#8 lasher by replacing it, but during a test drive, another lasher came loose. So now, cams are coming out and we're getting a set of new lashers to replace all of the used ones that were installed. Also, going to be going with the Crower Stage I cams. I didn't even ask for the dyno sheets from the tuner, they're not accurate since the #8 cyl wasn't functioning correctly and it'll need to be retuned after the cams are installed.

Edit: Injector was replaced and works fine.