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Modular 4.6L Tech For all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.

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Old 05-29-2005, 02:44 PM   #1 (permalink)
Badfish
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Default some questions (pullies)

I just ordered SLP Loudmouth, SLP O/R x-pipe, Diablo Sport Tuner, Steeda Pullies, Ford racing springs (c-springs), FRPP 3.73 gears, and a K&N CAI.

I'm going to install the CAI and pullies my self and have a buddy help with the rest. Since I'm going to install the pullies by my self. What do I need, and need to know before doing it. I've searched and so far all ive got is "Remove the washer between the crankshaft bolt and stock blancer" and "use silicone sealer (RTV) in keyway when you install the crank pulley"

I just want to be sure i dont mess up anything :violent5: , so everything goes perfect.
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Old 05-29-2005, 03:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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its pretty easy you do need a impact gun (air tools) to get the alt pulley off though. the water pump is held on by 4 10mm bolts i think it is and they just coem off with regular tools. the crank needs a harmonic balencer pulley puller to get it off. Every auto parts store has this and most let you rent it so you dont need to buy it. thats all you need. the only advice i can think of right now is that you should leave the belt on when taking the water pump pulley off as it keeps it from spinning when you take the bolts off.
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Old 05-29-2005, 03:32 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spike_africa
its pretty easy you do need a impact gun (air tools) to get the alt pulley off though. the water pump is held on by 4 10mm bolts i think it is and they just coem off with regular tools. the crank needs a harmonic balencer pulley puller to get it off. Every auto parts store has this and most let you rent it so you dont need to buy it. thats all you need. the only advice i can think of right now is that you should leave the belt on when taking the water pump pulley off as it keeps it from spinning when you take the bolts off.
Everything he says plus leave the belt on and tight for the alt.nut also.It helps to have a line drawing of the belt routeing too.
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Old 05-29-2005, 04:05 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks...mabey ill just have my bud put them on then...cus i dont have any power tools, and its probably just easier letting a freind do it while i observe :glasses10
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Old 05-29-2005, 06:39 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Also, on the ford racing c-springs...ive heard the people cut off the end on the back springs? I kind of want to have my stang look just a lil higher in the back...but not to the point that its really ugly and for now im keeping stock tires 245/45/17's do you think i should leave the springs the way they are or cut them?
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Old 05-29-2005, 08:00 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I think people cut them just to level them out. Its really trial and error to see what you like the best. You may have to pull them out to see if you wanna cut them more. Thats a lot of parts lol. Have fun, it will be a whole new car.
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Old 05-29-2005, 08:21 PM   #7 (permalink)
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yeah i know...itll be sweet
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Old 05-30-2005, 09:38 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Here are the directions that I followed and they were good.

http://www.mustangworld.com/ourpics/fcar/pull1.htm

You will not have to boil the pulley and all that because you are installing the Steeda's which use a new crank pulley.

I definetly needed the universal joint!! Also if you don't have impact tools you can take the alternator off and take it to an auto parts store and they will remove the pulley for you.

It is really easy!! Only thing that tripped me up was the washer on the crank pulley, but I see you already found that one :-)
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:10 PM   #9 (permalink)
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thanks for the link thats helpful!
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Old 05-30-2005, 04:45 PM   #10 (permalink)
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That is what I used and was very good.. If you run into any questions let me know and I try to help you out.. Plus there are a lot of people on the forum who have also installed them!
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Old 05-30-2005, 09:38 PM   #11 (permalink)
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okay, this is a dumb question here but does the pulley puller go on the crank when you are taking it off or what? Never did a pulley install before on a 4.6.
Do you put the pulley puller on, then take it off or ?????

I was not sure what was what when I tried to pull it off.

I think I just found the answer, on the mustangworld right up it states you have to have it on to get the pulley off.

Okay, since that is the answer I was looking for, once the Harmonic balencer puller is on, how easy it the crank pulley to remove form that point? Should it just be a good turn and it will come lose?
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Old 05-31-2005, 03:44 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raindamier
okay, this is a dumb question here but does the pulley puller go on the crank when you are taking it off or what? Never did a pulley install before on a 4.6.
Do you put the pulley puller on, then take it off or ?????

I was not sure what was what when I tried to pull it off.

I think I just found the answer, on the mustangworld right up it states you have to have it on to get the pulley off.

Okay, since that is the answer I was looking for, once the Harmonic balencer puller is on, how easy it the crank pulley to remove form that point? Should it just be a good turn and it will come lose?

Yes the puller has three screws that thread into the crank pulley and a bigger screw that pushes against the crank. When you screw in the middle screw it pushes against the crank and pushes the pulley away from the crank/engine. It is not hard to do (just make sure to remove the washer!!), about 5-10 full turns and you should be good, you will feel and see it move. Once it comes off you will then have to remove the puller from the pulley.
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254.66 RWHP 297.80 TQ on 89 Octane
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Old 06-03-2005, 02:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Trying to install mine but the damn crank bolt wont come off for s*it. Any words of advise?
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Old 06-03-2005, 02:05 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Yes you remove the crank bolt first. The puller actually uses the hole where the bolt was to put pressure on the crank to pull the pulley off.

I used an impact to get the crank bolt off. I think on autos you have to use an impact, I have a 5 speed. Also I read that you need to put the car in 5th if you have a 5 speed so that the crank won't turn. Might be time to get out the cheater pipe :evil6:
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Installed:
[size=1]- Steeda Tri-Ax, Steeda Underdrive Pulleys, Flowmaster 40 series weld-ins, Steeda Sport Springs, Tokico "Mach 1" struts/shocks, Steeda CAI, Dragon Plenum, Accufab 70mm TB, Steeda Strut Tower Brace, Grille Delete, xcal2 dyno tune

254.66 RWHP 297.80 TQ on 89 Octane
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Old 06-04-2005, 02:49 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Cursed by not owning any impact tools :sad1:
Thanks for the help.
Lamotta Performance here I come
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Old 06-04-2005, 04:47 AM   #16 (permalink)
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When it comes to pullies, I always tell people to have them installed by a shop. Most shops charge about $50 for the job. A lot less hassle and time, and it will get done right. Too many people try doing these on their own, and unless you have the right tools AND know what you are doing, it only becomes a problem.
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