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Old 02-04-2005, 05:29 PM   #1 (permalink)
BLoWbyU
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i read in here somewhere the steeda u/d pullies are not the piggyback style and that seems to be a good thing, what other brands are not piggyback style? any reccomends...and is this something i can do myself?
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Old 02-04-2005, 05:44 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Go with the Steeda's, good quality and you get a nice balancer with them.
You can do them yourself with basic hand tools.
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Old 02-04-2005, 06:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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cool man thanx, that seems to be the general consensus of everything i read, just thought i better double check here.
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Old 02-04-2005, 11:48 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Piggy back bad for some reason?? I got a set of March Underdrives off Ebay for $60.
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Old 02-05-2005, 03:29 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Dont even think about using piggyback underdrive pullies, every set I have ever seen causes the balancer to wobble which reduced effectivness and can lead to crank failure. Just My .02.
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Old 02-06-2005, 06:47 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike sweeney
Dont even think about using piggyback underdrive pullies, every set I have ever seen causes the balancer to wobble which reduced effectivness and can lead to crank failure. Just My .02.
Are the MAC Performance pulleys piggyback style??? I hope not, they have the best price of all the name brand pulleys. 100 bucks shipped!!! thats great please let me know, i don't want to cut corners with these pulleys and hurt my crank.
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Old 02-06-2005, 11:42 AM   #7 (permalink)
mike sweeney
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As far as I know all MAC pullies are the piggyback style. If you shop around you can get Steeda's for not much more, and they are well worth it!
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Old 02-06-2005, 07:09 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Just spend the extra 50 bucks and get the Steedas. They arent piggyback, wont cause problems, and Ive never heard of any problems with the pulleys themselves. Just be careful when you install them to not get overzealous with torquing down the bolt, as Ive read of them snapping off and getting stuck in the crank, which is NO GOOD. Just take your time, and spend the money right the first time and go with the Steedas.
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Old 02-07-2005, 08:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmatt
Just spend the extra 50 bucks and get the Steedas. They arent piggyback, wont cause problems, and Ive never heard of any problems with the pulleys themselves. Just be careful when you install them to not get overzealous with torquing down the bolt, as Ive read of them snapping off and getting stuck in the crank, which is NO GOOD. Just take your time, and spend the money right the first time and go with the Steedas.
Thanks for the advice, ill try to find a set of Steedas at a decent price. If you see some on sale somewhere post the site.
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Old 02-07-2005, 09:25 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmatt
Just spend the extra 50 bucks and get the Steedas. They arent piggyback, wont cause problems, and Ive never heard of any problems with the pulleys themselves. Just be careful when you install them to not get overzealous with torquing down the bolt, as Ive read of them snapping off and getting stuck in the crank, which is NO GOOD. Just take your time, and spend the money right the first time and go with the Steedas.
as long as you tighten the crank bolt to spec you will have no problem, which requires a tourque wrench. The reason people snap off the head of the crank bolt is because it is a TTY (tourque to yield) bolt and is only ment to be used once, if you get a set of steeda pullies without the crank bolt, GET A NEW BOLT! your local ford dealer should have them in stock.
You can check classifieds for pullies on different boards, I scored my pullies and timing adjuster combined for 165 shipped a yeart ago on the corral.

some people have called the crank pulley a balancer, it is not, The modular motor is internally ballanced and uses a damper, which does not balance the motor but dampen any harmonic or vibritory imperfections.
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Old 02-07-2005, 01:20 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serum114
Thanks for the advice, ill try to find a set of Steedas at a decent price. If you see some on sale somewhere post the site.

maybe we can incite some sort of sale at MT b/c they sell em :toothy9:
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Old 02-23-2005, 07:09 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I put a set of BBK underdrive pullies on my 97 GT and I always had discharge problems at night when I would come to a stop. About two months later I found out from some fellow stangers that they had the same problem. I don't know about the other pullies out there, but I deffin. don't recommand the BBK.
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Old 02-23-2005, 09:02 PM   #13 (permalink)
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i think with any set of pullies you will get some kind of discharge and i have steeda pullies and my lights dim all over my car and dont get as bright as they used. a little price to pay when i expect some power gains.

and im not sure if you can even use the steeda underdrive with a supercharger set up. so you may want to keep your stockers just in case you need them one day
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Old 02-24-2005, 12:05 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanger00
. . . im not sure if you can even use the steeda underdrive with a supercharger set up. so you may want to keep your stockers just in case you need them one day
you CAN use them, but why would anyone want to underdrive thier supercharger?
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Old 02-24-2005, 03:51 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I put mine on last week, and acording to my Gtech meter, I scored and extra 8hp, The off road pipes according to the meter gave me 11hp. I didnt think the pullies were going to do anything. but wrong.

I got the march pullies off ebay from someone for $50 shipped. It was missing the crank bolt which is longer than stock, so i ordered another one from March Performance for $3.45. They are a very strange metric thread, I could not buy the bolt at any hardware or automotive store. It is Metric 12x1.50x90mm The 1.5 is the thread pitch and not stocked anywhere, not even any online bolt stores.

My alternator pulley on the March is 1/4 inch bigger i guess to help charging. I've not seen any problems. but i havnt put the monster stereo in yet. Im just going to use a single Kicker 6 channel Amp and a nice Rockford Fosgate Sub thats custom molded to fit the trunk and comes with bolts that bolt it down through the body on the right side. Pretty slick.

Looks like this.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT

it molds perfectly and you cant even tell it's there. the speaker isnt visable, but a bass port through the bottom. Now where to mount the Amp it's 30" long. Got a ebay deal on it too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT
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Old 02-25-2005, 05:52 AM   #16 (permalink)
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hmmm, i just bought a set of piggeyback's not knowing this info. Didnt install them yet but i am also running a 60x4 watt alpine head, 600 watt crunch amp, and 3 10" mtx competition subs. DONT tell im gonna lose my sound system when they're installed.....lol, am i?
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Old 02-25-2005, 09:14 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I had a system in my stang also. Head unti, speakers, amps, and subs. When I had the it had it discgarged even worse. Good Luck
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Old 02-25-2005, 10:17 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyStangs
hmmm, i just bought a set of piggeyback's not knowing this info. Didnt install them yet but i am also running a 60x4 watt alpine head, 600 watt crunch amp, and 3 10" mtx competition subs. DONT tell im gonna lose my sound system when they're installed.....lol, am i?
If your having any problems, put the stock alternator pulley back on, it will help a bit, you shouldnt have any charging problems unless you idleing all the time. Also get the highest Cranking Amp battery you can get or upgrade to a higher output alternator. I have the highest amp die hard Gold i could fit in there.

Im putting in my system today. I really doubt i will have a problem. EFI mustangs pull a lot of juice compared to carb mustangs. If i remember like 70 amps more.

Staying under 1000 watts i doubt you'll have a problem with a quality battery. Watch your battery gauge with it cranked up and see if it's fluctuating or pulling hard.
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Old 02-25-2005, 02:45 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Default .

can you point me in a direction online where to find these parts? i am interested. Also, would i have these issues even if i ran a non-piggeyback pulley system? i may just sell these and buy some steeda's. Also, what's a CAI? I see that alot on this forum. Thanks alot.
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- Mach 1 Grille Delete and Lip Spoiler (Painted To Match)
- Side View Mirrors (Painted To Match)
- 18x9/18x10 Chrome Saleen Wheels w/ Nitto Tires
- Brembo Drilled/Slotted Rotors
- Steeda Tri-Ax Short Shifter
- Brake Calipers (Painted To Match)
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Old 02-25-2005, 06:31 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyStangs
can you point me in a direction online where to find these parts? i am interested. Also, would i have these issues even if i ran a non-piggeyback pulley system? i may just sell these and buy some steeda's. Also, what's a CAI? I see that alot on this forum. Thanks alot.
CAI is cold air induction, the stainless steel tubes you see on everyone's car that put's your air filter in the fenderwell. Mine had one on it when i bought it. I'd rather have the stock one. Easier to change and clean the filter.
Some people say they add HP, but i dont think it!!!

I talked to the guy at march performance pullies because i needed a crank bolt i lost and asked him about getting another bottom pully instead of piggyback, He said they just sell the bottom for about $110 shipped if i would like to upgrade, but talked me out of it. He's the tech dept head and told me he hasnt had one person call with a failure?? I bought mine for $50 shipped. If i was buying new and the closeness of the price then i wouldnt go piggyback, just because it looks so Jerry rigged.
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Old 03-04-2005, 09:38 PM   #21 (permalink)
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I have march u/d's and from what I have learned is that the only downside to piggy back style u/d's is that you can't use the steeda timing adjuster. If you have a chip it doesn't matter, or MAC sells an adjuster that is nearly identical to steeda's for less money and it works with piggy backs. Also like someone stated before, you need a new crank bolt (should come with the pullies) and a harmonic dampner puller (autozone for 12 bucks), as well as some high temp silicone RTV and loc tite. As far as your sound systems go, take your stang to a performance car audio shop and have them install an inline capacitor or get one yourself ($50-120), that will eliminate your fade problems, however I have not noticed the need. Even at idle with headlights, a/c and radio way up, I only notice a slight dim.
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