Modular 4.6L TechFor all your 1996-2005+ 2V, 3V, and 4V modular motor needs.
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Yah so. Stocks are looking good. If things go the way the market analysts expect I might have about $4,000 extra after i pay off some bills.
So im trying to decide what would be the best route for me to go with upgrades.
2 obvious routes are Supercharger +130rwhp, i think twin turbo is out of my price range.
However, i dont think i really want to get a supercharger. Im thinking maybe suspension and other crap. I REALLY REALLY want to do stage 2 cams, i LOVE the lope. Drooooooool
i assume i could get stage 2 cams done for about 1,500. that leaves 2,500.
Here is what i currently have
K&N FPIK
4:10's
Diablow Tuner
Sprangz DD series.
Xpipe, no mufflers. (custom job by a local exhaust performance shop)
So here is the thing. I want a daily driver, i want engine reliability (nothing that could cause premature wear on the engine). I want a smooth nice ride, and i want to get at LEAST another 50HP at the wheels. I dont do a lot of street racing, i just like the idea of having a fast and mean car. I want that aggressive lope so cams are big on my list, and i DONT want to have to pay for a gear swap in order to do a S/C. So i think ill pass on the supercharger.
What do you all reccommend? what could get me to the 280+ RWHP range? It IS an automatic and im planning on doing a J-mod sometime in the near future.
With what i currently have, going a non supercharger route, how much power can i get with 4 grand?
3.73 or 3.90 gears and a mongoose supercharger kit from miles per hour. Dont waste your time dilly dallying with stupid crap that does nothing. Go big since youll have the cash and work your way down, once you have the extra cash. In the end youll wish you supercharged, like I did. I have k&n filter, acuffab tb/plenum, 3.90s, h&r springs, SCT XCAL 2, bbk shorty headers, slp catted xpipe, xlerator catback, cobra brakes front and back, and whatever else i forgot. thats about 2200 bucks not includding installation of headers and xpipe, and installation of gears which was 280 for both. yeah i know thats supercheap, but I work for a dealership and made buddies.
Look where its got me, mabye a second off my 1/4 time from stock. you can spend your 4000 dollars and get mabye a second off your 1/4 times and be in the 13s, or you can put down 400 at the wheels and be running a 12.5 with a decent run and tune for 4000 dolalrs.
get a blower you *****....or a really nice nitrous setup
Yah i have under 18k miles.
My whole thing is yah, i want speed, but i want attitude more than speed. Stage 2 cams pack a lot more attitude than a blower in my view. Not as much speed, def not, but a lot more attitude.
You have enough money to do cams and an n20 system........But if it were me id just switch gears and buy a supercharger.....You can be faster with the nitrous+cams but the whine of the blower is so badass.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....
My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new
yea slapster, it's lookin like we just need to get blowers. Peronsally, I HATE seeing 3 grand sitting in my account and not able to spend any of it on something worth my while. Not enough for a blower, and I just plain don't care to buy anything else, even though I can afford any of it.
It's like when I started working at the videogame store. I can try out literally ANY game that I want, for 4 days, free of charge. Thing is, I NEVER try out games, because I know that most games suck, or won't be worth my time, so I don't get ANY of them. Same with the other parts, I know they won't be worth my money, so I don't get them.
nitrous and cams end thread- blower is toooo much
whats the point of spending 4k on an ok sc, if i was going to do a sc it would be a KB, no other, instant power and tons of torque and awesome wine
dont just get a sc to get a sc get the BEST if your going to go that route
__________________
2000 GT Black on Tan, TKO 600:
370rwhp 370rwtq NA Built 3v
2004 Honda CBR 600 F4i Black/Red
2000 SVT Lightning Silver
i love jinny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!
lucky is awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
nitrous and cams end thread- blower is toooo much
whats the point of spending 4k on an ok sc, if i was going to do a sc it would be a KB, no other, instant power and tons of torque and awesome wine
dont just get a sc to get a sc get the BEST if your going to go that route
the kb doesnt give any more tq than any other equally-qualified s/c. The thing is, is gives INSTANT tq. it does max around 4k like most, a KB tq maxes more near 2. If you get a s/c and you face a week's worth of ricers/races, you'll be good to go the next week. If you get nitrous, you'll be good to go for maybe a week(of quite a few races using nitrous) but then you gotta refill. IF you think about how long you plan on keeping your car, and how much you WOULD refill the nitrous, the s/c is more worth it. For a few hundred per refill, over a course of a few years you'd spend more on the nitrous..PLUS you hafta go thru the pain of buying a new bottle and replacing. With the s/c, if you want more power, just upgrade the engine and turn up the boost!
You should add a SC then later on get a cam for you blower setup, it will be a rougher idle than a NA cam. After I get everything done next year I plan on get a KB and cams. I could of just dropped new cams in their now but it would run like crap without the blower and Im unsure when I will be adding the SC as I want to go a couple of other things before that happen. I have never met someone that said I should of never added a SC.
Before you buy anything sit down a make a list of what you want to achieve.
Answer a few questions for us.
1. Do you race at a track or on the street or both.
2. If you race at a track how fast do you want to go?
(Remember that you can only go 11.50 before you have to add a roll bar).
4. How important is gas mileage and driveablilty?
here is what you can expect:
n/a skip ported heads and just do a mild cam on a stock block. With a good cam, longtubes, 4.10's, tune at full weight mid 12's.
Nitrous: A NX 100 shot with 4.10's and a good tune 11.5-12.00
Blower: a KB 1.7 with 3.73's low 12's and very good street manners.
Nitrous is the cheapest to set up but at 60 bucks a bottle it could get expensive if you plan on a little street action. N/A is next cost wise but also makes the least amount of power. Blower is the most costly but you make big power all the time ( no worries about botlle pressure, temp.)
You may have noticed that I have left out centrifugal super chargers (Vortech, Paxton etc.) that is because they need to be rev'd up higher than a twin screw and you increase the likelyhood of spinning a bearing when making big HP at high rpm. If you intend on building a forged bottom end they make great power and the cost is a little less than a KB. This is just a personal preference so all of you with Mongoose kits should take no offense.
It's all in what your ultimate goal really is.. if you only want around 300rwhp then do the cams and everything else. but if that's not going to make you happy then do the s/c and get the blower cams later like venom said.
OK im making new law here - SUPERCHARGERS ARE GAY!!!! - if your not FR, T trim - 2000 or better (blowers) STFU! they suck... end of story - the single turbos are so much better - especially with the varible blades they have now - meaning zero lag - turbo had better rwtq than NOS and more HP than s/c - never have to fill it and it sounds cooler 2! - not to mention its the same price or even cheaper than KB's - if I hAD 4g's it'd be a turbo no doubt! not to mention they are sick fast on the highway.
The rush from boost or nitrous is addicting. Very addicting......thats why they say once you go blown you never go back. I know the car would be really fast with maybe some ported heads and cams but its a whole different feeling when your pushed back in the seat by forced induction.
Well if your just set on staying N/a then I think you should do ported heads cams and longtubes. Since you will have a good amount of money then I would definately do all of these mods at one time. Youll need bigger injectors and have it tuned though. Still it can be done with 4,000. This is another option for me in the future if I dont buy an S-trim. I am starting to like my nitrous system alot and I dont know if I wanna cough up all that money for the whine. I can make more power with ported heads, cams, longtubes, and a 100 shot from the plate than I can with just a vortech s-trim.
__________________
2003 DSG GT 5-speed
Hellion 62mm and Flowmaster catback.....
My bonestock 2v engine had been through 2 years of NX 100 shot, 3 years running 8-12lbs vortech s-trim, got into boost daily while racing on the weekends, had 157,000 miles on it, and was running like new
go twin turbo, thats the route im gonna go with my '04 since it's only got 20k on it....bye bye 100k warranty lol.
__________________ New toys '07 F-150 black on black and completely blacked out!
'96 Mitsu eclipse RS: 'jus your average 2nd gen with a small block 331c.i. and a few bolt-on goodies(175shot) and rwd...1st one to be done! SOLD 2004 GT Annv. edition.
Custom Exhaust: o/r X pipe: Eibach Sportline full suspension: Clutchmasters stage 4 clutch: K&N filter: Steeda Tri-ax shifter: Mach 1 shift knob: BFG Drag radials: Compucar "nitrous-n-a-bag" 80-shot Stage I, Compucar Wet kit 125shot stage II
Need direction on the upgrades.
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