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#1 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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Yeah so apparently i suck at teh model building. <rofl>
I got a 99 cobra model, i got through the painting on it and everything was looking good! Then it came to the assembly. Well, apparently the glue i bought (at the model section at hobby lobby, you know, the **** MADE for model construction) has a nasty ability to strip the paint i used(testors, also sold at the ****ing model isle in hobby lobby) So every time i tried to glue something it would mix with the dried paint(dried over 24hours) and would turn into this nasty gummy mass and really diddnt want to dry. Needless to say, my cobra looks like something springsstang might make after a good hit to the head. All you model builders, am i doing something wrong? is there a better type of glue that will not melt the ****ing paint and plastic? i diddnt expect it to turn out perfect, this is the first model i have done in 2 decades, but i diddnt remember the glue gelling the paint and mixing together and never drying. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Always Detailin'
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When I was youger I did a lot of model cars. I also used Tester's and yes the glue will eat that paint alive. Basicaly use little glue as possible and just put little dots where u need them. I used a tootpick when doing mine. Once your press down whatever it is thats being glued, DO NOT move it around or twist and turn it. Other than that, just practice.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 47
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or wht i used to do was glue it together frist, let it dry then paint it, th paint wont come out as well but looks better then a big blob
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Slappy,
Been building models for years, here's some tips. 1 As stated above, use as little glue as possible. 2. On all painted or chormed pieces, use your exacto knife to scrape the pint or chrome off the area to be glued. 3. Don't be in a rush to complete it in one day/night. Let the glue dry before moving on. 4. Test fit all part before appling glue.. Hope this helps Rada
__________________
01 Oxford White GT GO: MAC Cold Air Intake Accufab 70mm Throttlebody & Plenum Steeda T45 Short Throw Shifter Steeda Underdrive Pulleys Flowmaster Delta 40s 3.73 Gears MAC 2.5" Dual Catalytic H-Pipes 18x9 & 18x10 Black/Chrome Bullitts w/ Sumitomo HTRZ IIs Back: 285/35/R18 Front: 265/35/R18 SHOW: Mach 1 Grill Delete Chin Spoiler Sequential Tailights Redline QuickLIFT Elite Hood Struts Honeycomb Trim Panel Black Reflective "MUSTANG" lettering RADA's CarDomain Page |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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Thanks everyone, yeah i was deinfatly overglueing the hell out of it. Good idea about scraping some areas with exacto. I also need to be more patient. sometimes i have a hard time putting that stuff down.
Once i get a couple cars done and happy with the way they come out, im gonna try moving up to an oldschool boat with the sails and masts and all that stuff. keel;haul and walk the plany ye scurvy seadawgs |
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#7 (permalink) |
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&quot;kill or be killed&quot;
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HAHA, i read the title and was like NOOOOOOOO ....need some pic's :foot:
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#8 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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Ill see what i can do. Heh, it looks a LOT like my car. Stripes and everything./\
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#9 (permalink) | |
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Built models for years too. Lots of fun, but patience and a little trial-and-error are part of what makes it fun. Here's a shot of the last model I completed: Shelby GT350. ![]() Currently working(slowly) on a 65 fastback. Got a GT500 waiting in the box yet too. |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Everyday Im Hustlin
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Ecorse, Michigan
Posts: 3,654
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Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
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Listen to reggae.
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i tried once. I lack the patience, i got pissed when i was holding a part down with glue and came apart when i let go, i threw it at the wall in fury, then punched a baby in the face
J/K! i really didn't throw it at the wall
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