I've had an issue with my Steering Column for months now, because I've been to lazy and I don't feel like paying a lot of money for something that seems simple. I some how broke the rod or the hook, whatever it's called to the switch box. Pretty much I can't use my key to start or turn off the car, I have to manually turn on/off my car with the switch box.

Question: How hard is it to take out the Steering Column and what's the worse that can happen? Has anyone else have this problem?

Question 2: How much oil does a 1995 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 (I'm pretty sure it's a T-5) for the Transmission and rear end (Gears I think?)?

Thank you!

 

So you can't use the key to start or stop it, but you have a switch hooked up? what your wrote is kinda confusing.

 

T5 you fill until it pours out the fill hole and the rear end is 2 quarts (I believe).

 

Do you know what a Switch Box looks like? I'm very confusing because I suck at making sense. LoL

My mechanic said to fill them both until they pour out, but I was going to have him help me this Friday. I just need to know how many I should get, because I don't want to many and I don't want to less.

I'm getting
Royal Purple Synchromax Manual Transmission Fluid
&
Royal Purple Max Gear 75w90 Gear Oil

Someone said that I might have to re-seal the rear end because it probably doesn't have a drain plug or anything. Is this true?

 

Make sure the MTL is for ATF manual transmissions, as the T5 requires Mercon. As for the diff, I've seen 75W-140 and 80W-90 being the recommended grades. I'd go w/ the lighter 75W-140. And lastly, draining requires you to remove the cover as there is no drain plug, so buy a tube of silicone.

 

How many quarts should I get? What's MTL and ATF??

http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal-...ion-fluid.html
and
http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal-...-gear-oil.html

I only found out because of Ziggy
https://mustangboards.com/reference-...syncromax.html

 

MTL- Manual Trans Lube
ATF- Auto Trans Fluid

The synchromax should be fine though. Not sure on quarts but it should be between 3-4.

 

It's like 2 1/2 for the Manual Transmission and 1 1/2 for the Rear End. What weight should I get for the rear end?

Remember I'm really rough and hard on my car, I put full use to my baby and I run it hard, always racing. LOL

I'm going to pick up Syncro Max right now.

 

my manual called for Mercon 5 in my T-45. works like a charm.

 

Take you're pick between 75W-140 and 80W-90

 

What would you go with? I like your opinions. LOL

 

Doesn't matter, Ford has recommended both from 86-present for the 8.8".

 

But the way I drive my car what would you recommend? I trust your opinion more then my mechanic and a lot of others. Since you understand me better. LOL I just asked my mechanic and he said 80w-90, but he also said I need to get some posi traction oil/lube or something?

Ps. I found an easier way to put oil in for the tranny, take out the shifter. Thanks to AMNick, I had to message him for something and he said to do it that way, way easier. I was asking for a pump from AmericanMuscle since I'm about to order my oil, they're giving me a good deal. SCORE

Since I'm doing it from the Shifter, would it matter if I went above the hole on the side or not? LOL

Edit: They don't have 80w-90 on AmericanMuscle. Only 75W-90 (3 reviews) and 75W-140 (1 review).

What about (How many would it take?)
Royal Purple 'Purple Ice' Super Coolant (3 reviews)
http://www.americanmuscle.com/royal-...r-coolant.html

 

I just got home, I was out racing and skating tonight. I was suppose to go on a bike ride, but it was to far and already to late. Hopefully tomarrow we will meet and go do some moutaing/curves/corners or something. Anyways since I was looking at the Coolant and read one of the reviews about how it cools your car down. I was racing and my car gets pretty **** hot. Like I can feel it from the inside of the car as well. So I need to do something about that. I'm not having any problems, but would be nicer to have my engine not get so HOT. Just thought I would through that in there.

 

Is it actually getting hot on the gauge or you just feel more heat, because you might just have some holes in your firewall that are letting heat through to the cabin.

And I run straight water with some Purple Ice in my 1954 MG TF and it helps out. It runs a little bit cooler and doesn't boil over now. Where as with straight coolant/water mix it ran very hot and would boil over on long trips. Plus one bottle lasts a long time. As you don't need much added to the cooling system to help it out. I wouldn't run straight water on a DD though so don't do that.

 

I rarely look at the gauge, so I'm not really sure. I do know it doesn't even go half way on warm up or driving around. but then again I never pay attention because it doesn't give me any problems. It's just you can feel the heat coming through the car when driving. I don't think it's something bad, but I'm sure I can help it a little better. I know when I got home I opened the hood and POOF a good amount of hot air comes out fast. I haven't changed the coolant or added any since I got the car last year in May (2008) or so. I figured since I'm changing everything to Royal Purple I would go with that coolant.

Do you think I can use all Purple Ice for coolant or should I mix it and with what? I don't even know if mine in there now is straight water or mixed. It had a rough time going through the very cold storm that hit us around December. I didn't drive it period, but I kept trying to warm it up every day at least once and it didn't like it one bit.

 

I would still fill the trans until the fluid starts coming out the fill hole.

As for the rear end, if you're set on American Muscle as your supplier, get 75W-140. Another site worth checking out is synlubes.com. I haven't found any place cheaper than them for Redline. Otherwise, I'd stick w/ 80W-90 if you can find it.

 

I already answered pretty much every question for you via PM, but I guess you needed to ask two or three times.. Anyway.

Simple terms:





Rear End:

• 2 Quarts - Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, Lucas doesn't really matter, those are all good brands.
• 75w90, 75w140 or 80w90, pick your poison, doesn't matter.
• There are only a few brands that DO NOT have "slip lock" additive already mixxed in now. I know for a fact that Royal Purple, Lucas & Mobil 1 need no additive, they are already pre-mixxed.
• Your "mechanic" should know how to re-seal the diff. cover, but I recommend using the Ford brand Ultra Gray silicone, it's used for diesels and I guarantee that it won't leak. Get it at the Ford stealership, you'll need a caulk gun to use it.

Cooling:


Your car is not a weekend warrior and I assume isn't stored in a temperature controlled garage therefore you need to use coolant/anti-freeze. Go to Auto Zone and get:

• One bottle of Red Line "Water Wetter" (Get it at Auto Zone/ Advanced, etc.)
• One Bottle of Prestone Anti-Freeze full strength, not 50/50. (You'll fill the rest with Water.)
• If you're planning on doing the flush/fill yourself, get a prestone flush/fill kit and a bottle of prestone flush cleaner.

 

I'm just dumb, it's been a proven fact and yeah. LoL Thank you! BUt you forgot about how many quarts for the Transmission. Just giving you ****. haha thanks though for sure.

But using Redline and Prestone will that help keep my car cooled down? It's like seriously hot like no other. I don't like it at all. LOL

I know if I race really hard, red lining it and my car is way to hot it idle up and down, trying to kill it's self or whatever. No, I don't look at the temp gage.

 

If your car is getting THAT hot, you probably have another problem like a f'ed up thermostat, broken radiator or something along those lines.

I just flushed the Radiator in My car about 3 weeks ago and went to the tail of the dragon the week after. I ran the **** out of my car (2nd gear running up to 7k +) and for the majority of the time the needle stayed to the left (cool side) of the "Normal" mark on the Temp. Gauge, at it's hottest it was dead center of the "Normal" mark on the gauge.