have bought a Novi2000 for my 2001 GT. Im looking at getting a Cobra engine. More less a crate built one.

I want to make sure that it has fordge rods pistons and crank.

Do any of you know who I should go with that has the best prices and which type of motor would fit my engine bay. I would like to do some of the work myself to save on some money, however will it be too difficult to do this, and should i have someone else do it?

and if i put one in, what other modifications would i need to do inorder for this to work?

I also have the cobra fuel pump and tank

 

There are several ways to tackle this.

4.6L Teksid Block B Head, 99/01 C Head, 03 Cobra Head, Fort GT/Cobra R Stock Displacement
4.6L Teksid Block +.030" over (cheapest and strongest)
5.0L Big Bore motor (Block is wet Sleeved and prepped)
5.4L Iron Block Motor any Cyl. Head
5.4L Navigator (Aluminum) from 2002 (can use Navi heads or any other DOHC Head)

If you want to try and keep costs down you can purchase a 96-98 Cobra motor (comes with Cobra Crank), or any 93-98 Lincoln Mark VIII, and some early 99 Cobra's as they all have the "Teksid" Aluminum Block (all 4.6L). This block was manufactured in Italy by the same company that makes engine blocks for Ferrari and is good for 1500+ HP. All later Aluminum blocks (save the recent Ford GT) were manufactured in Ford's Romeo plant...and aren't good but for ~500 HP.


Any block can be assembled with any different combination of Internals. Be realistic with yourself concerning your ultimate power goals. If you plan on going for the 600+ HP and run with the big boys you need Billet I beam Rods and Forged Pistons. A Stock 8-Bolt Cobra Crank is virtually indestructable. Have it polished/prepped if you so desire. Have the whole Rotating assembly balanced and blueprinted/professionally assembled.

ACCESSORIES:
-If you switch to a DOHC setup you will need a new 8 Bolt Flywheel - Fidanza Billet Aluminum or Steel (you'll need a new clutch anyway) DD Performance is who I would suggest for any Tranny/clutch needs.
Computer from whichever car you utilize (96-98 DOHC will require the 96-98 Computer to control the IMRC's unless you delete them.)
-Headers
-Midpipe/Catpack for Cobra
-Aftermarket Radiator to handle the Cooling of the new combo (500+ HP will require it)




Depending on how Tool Savvy you are you can accomplish this yourself. If you are throwing a Novi at it you need to at least speak with a reputable engine builder. And someone will have to assemble the shortblock, accessories and Engine installation you can do yourself if you feel quite comfortable about it.

Personally I would either use VT Engines or Boss330 Racing

VT Engines is a reputable builder, and they stand behind their product. Scott is a nice guy as well. They are located in Lansing, MI.

Boss's (Al Pappito) website basically just has Contact information, and you will have to call to discuss the buildup with him. He is located in Vero Beach, FL.

For what it's worth...when I do a rebuild Al Papitto (Boss330) will do my motor.

The Cobra motors are a different animal then their 2V counterparts. They love RPM's, and move an incredible amount of air and make for Big HP numbers. Stock Cams have been sufficient for Sub 9 second cars...but if you have the pockets for it go ahead and purchase a set of blower cams from Crower or Comp Cams. A custom Valvetrain, (Titanium retainers, upgraded Springs, oversized valves, Custom Headwork associated therein etc.)

Fuel system will need to be dramatically changed, Either upgrade all lines routing, and get Focus pumps and/or BAP or upgrade to the 98 and earlier Return style Fuel systems.

That's all i'll throw in for now. That's not touching Rear End, suspension, Rollcage etc. It won't be cheap, it won't be easy, but with a properly built 4.6L or greater DOHC motor and Novi 2k with sufficient Boost and you will pretty much own whichever city you reside in.

Search other mustang forums...start Here

Philip K.

 

this "Teksid" block is on all the older cobras?

 

If you have the cash let a reputable shop do all this work. Last thing you want is a fighting match between you and the shop on whos fault it is why your new block is blowing smoke. I am having 1 shop do all the work so if something is not right they are the ones that have to figure it out.

 

If you are not 100% confident in your wrenching abilities, or have little to no experience pulling motors etc. I would not attempt to do this work on your own. As Venom said, best bet is to contact whichever shop your research determines to be the best, and talk with them through it and let the pro's handle it. That way at least you'll have a warranty of some kind.

Yes that is Correct. All 96-98 Cobras and 93-98 Lincoln Mark VIII's recieved the teksid block. All 99's and a few 2001 Cobra's also had the teksid block, but check to be certain.
93-98 Teksid block - F6LZ-6010-AB
99 Teksid block - XR37-6010-AB (only difference being a change in the main bearing cap detail.)

It is cast from SAE 319 alloy aluminum. Weight is approximately 85 lbs. This is the strongest alumnium block available. If anyone is considering a build up I would purchase this block as a starting point.


And to correct my previous post...

All later blocks are known as the WAP or Windsor Aluminum Plant blocks. They weigh about 80 lbs, but are not nearly as strong as their earlier counterparts.

 

I have done an engine swap before but dont have the time anymore. I did the engine swap on my SVO but I was younger and single with more time and less $$$$

 

Lol, I hear you there. Women have a tendency to do that. Wasn't implying you didn't possess the skills.

If money isn't a factor it's always best to have a shop perform the work...unless of course...you own a shop.

Shameless Smilie plug - :Thin5: I Love Diablo

 

Brandon Alsept from Modular Depot has a sweet Boss330 built shortblock for sale. Teksid block, best of everything for some where in the $3800 range I think. Al Pappitto told me that this motor was the sh%T. Its never been fired.

Adam

 

Mmmm don't tease me.