Alright - before any sort of bashing goes on.

#1 I do not think I am a God. I simply had enough money to accomplish what I wanted.
#2 I'm not saying anything is perfect, and you'll run 10s or whatever with this.
#3 Even if you do run 10s, theres still going to be someone around to spank your ***.
#4 I'm more then happy to take criticism, as I am still learning, but I figured this would help.

Ok. A few general things.

BASIC MODIFICATIONS - For a v6 should be fairly simple.
Exhaust - Get rid of the Y and go to a H or X or "true dual" setup - involving no mid pipe.
CAI - Don't spend 300 bucks on one, a cheap AM one will do you fine.

As far as the exhaust goes - direct yourself to the v6 exhaust thread.

If you're actually going to spend some cash -
Under drive pullies
Gears (4.10s for auto 3.73s for manual)
Jmod - Modified the valve body on your transmission. - You can google this and it will give you more info.
Posi - (or TLOK) allows both wheels to spin, instead of the peg leg.
Tuner - (I will always use an SCT as its dyno friendly and most tuners prefer it that I know of. If you're doing gears/posi, you need it.)
Nitrous - a good power adder, for a cheap buck. Really shouldn't be used if you're a dumbass. If you're not going to sit the car on a dyno, I woudln't go over a 75 shot. And the nitrous kit should be a WET KIT. Brand doesn't matter, but in respect to a few guys - I wouldn't go with the "VENOM" kit from AM, as its a pain.
Windstar intake kit - check out vapauto.com

For someone whos going to spend a good amount and have done some bolt ons ect. PREFERABLY 8.8 SWAP.

For the guys on a single port - a split port swap is something very nice to have. I'd recommend checking out supersixmotorsports.
For v6's in general - heads/intakes/cam - Port/Polish work done to the heads and intakes. A Cam from Comp (who I used..) with a little direction from supersix.

NOTE: Before doing a cam - figure out what you're going to run - nitrous, turbo, sc, NA, this may change your cam.

Stroker - A big one, our little 3.8s NA don't have much *****, a stroker helps this out some. What consists in a stroker kit - Bigger crank - pistons - rods. This requires a bore to the block, some go .30 over some go .20 over ect. I went .20 over. You can go with a 4.2 stroker or a 4.3 stroker. Anything above that, and you're on your own.

Turbo - Turbos are amazing on a v6, people are hitting 10 second and lower quarter miles with a stroker and a turbo, and are still going strong. This includes full interior, ect. Larger pump, mass air meter, and injectors are needed for this. More information can be supplied if asked about it.

Supercharger - Vortech, Procharger, and M112 just to name. Most of the bigger power numbers I have seen come from a procharger with a stage 3 intercooler, and the pulley swapped to a bit smaller (producing more boost). There is a custom Novi kit that has been made, but as far as I know, no one actually manufactures it. M112s are becoming popular, however, the power gains aren't what they are compared to a Procharger, from what I have seen.

Nitrous - Again. A direct port kit, on a built stroker will put out some big numbers, and run. With the capability of a 150 shot safely, this route hasn't been taken too often, I am currently attempting this, numbers ect will be provided in the VERY near future. However I am currently just running a WET kit through the intake, so the shot may be lower for the time being.

Last - And extremely important still - SUSPENSION

Yes, those shocks and struts, those control arms, ect are very important, if you haven't figured it out yet. You need a way to get the power to the ground.

Lowering springs - Eibach - H&Rs are the two of the companies to name.
Along with lowering the car - Caster cambers should be replaced.
Shocks and struts - If you're going with the "crazy wtf" method above, stroker, ect, I'd recommend running 90/10 up front and 50/50s in the rear, or fully adjustable, or if you really go the cash, coilovers.
The method behind this, is to allow the rear to squat some, and the front to gradually lower itself down, with adjustables, you can adjust how much squat, and how quickly the front comes down.
Subframe connectors - because pushing big power, and having your body twist sucks.
Control arms - better control capabilities - better then stock in general. Go with fully adjustable if you buy these.
Welded torque boxes - If you're pushing a decent amount of power, the torque boxes are only tack welded, and sometimes do like to start to break, if you know a guy that can weld or you can, it only takes a few minutes to clean up down there and weld it up with a MIG.

There are things I left out in this, such as Fuel Pump, Wheels, ect, however this is simply a rough writeup as to what you CAN do. There are a number of other things you can do, and various combos, ect. I hope this gives you some sort of information, and it is up for discussion. But from what I have read, and from what I have done, this is what I've figured out.

Many things you see on the internet that swear it'll give you 10+ horsepower on your v6 is a lie. It may FEEL different, but that doesn't mean its oging to be quicker.

 

Nice post and good info.

 

good write up, not full of endless bullshit like other ones

 

so what does stroking the v6 do exactly
hp?
price estimate?

 

It'll raise the horsepower and torque substantially.

Stroker kit is about 3 thousand. Price of install, gaskets, ect, varies.