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How low should I go?

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  #61  
Old 04-29-2009 | 12:18 PM
Black Sunshine's Avatar
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By demons be driven.
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Originally Posted by knife13
IMO. you shouldn't waste your money on anything other than springs if you never go WOT or race it. Buying all those mods and doing that is like buying a million dollar track ready supercar and only sunday driving it to the grocery store and back.
I understand what you mean, but this isn't about racing. It's about improving the upon the handling because the car is incredibly bumpy and bouncy during normal city/highway driving. I feel like I'm going to lose control of the car just going over a railroad track at normal speed. That's why I only want to get the parts that are necessary to tone down the bounciness and the wheel hop from the stock suspension.

Just because I don't race my car, that doesn't mean I don't want it to handle better.
 
  #62  
Old 04-29-2009 | 12:21 PM
Teufelshunde3/5's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Black Sunshine
Is UPR's stuff any good? Decent quality?

Okay. I found this on Stangsuspension.com. They are having a sale on some of the stuff I need and it has free shipping.

S/S:
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=1416
LCA's:
http://www.stangsuspension.com/store/comersus_viewitem.asp?idproduct=639


This is what I plan to get from AM.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda...arm-05-08.html

Do I really need to get springs? I know you said those shocks and struts would work with my stock springs, but the combination of those S&S with the stock springs wouldn't make the car sit any higher or anything?

Is there anything completely necessary that I would need?

My apologies for all these questions. Suspension is not my strong suit. I know what all of this **** does to a certain extent, but my understanding of how it works together is limited at best.

I'd suggest going with these instead of the ones you listed http://www.hotpart.com/shop/index.ph...ct_detail&p=45 The 3 piece polly ball bushings are supposed to be better at preventing bind.


The SS look like a good deal. I have the same (although correct model for my year) on my car. The SS will work just fine with your setup & will not raise or lower your car at all. SS are only dampeners that help absorb road shock. Ride hight is determined by the springs not SS.

Also before you spend a lot of time and money on the Rear upper control arms you might want to see how the car handles with just the lowers and new SS. I know the uppers will make some differance but, from what I've been told by the techs at the shop I go to ( GTR High Performance) that the lowers make the biggest noticable differance.

Your car is newer than mine so maybe the change is more noticable.
 

Last edited by Teufelshunde3/5; 04-29-2009 at 12:31 PM. Reason: change link.
  #63  
Old 04-29-2009 | 12:29 PM
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By demons be driven.
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Originally Posted by Teufelshunde3/5
I'd suggest going with these instead of the ones you listed http://www.americanmuscle.com/extrem...trol-arms.html

Because of the spherical bearing vs just the polly bushings. Maybe call J&M to see if their other LCA comes with the same 3piece polly ball bushings as the 99-04 LCA's that way you don't end up with suspension bind.

The SS look like a good deal. I have the same (although correct model for my year) on my car. The SS will work just fine with your setup & will not raise or lower your car at all. SS are only dampeners that help absorb road shock. Ride hight is determined by the springs not SS.

Also before you spend a lot of time and money on the Rear upper control arms you might want to see how the car handles with just the lowers and new SS. I know the uppers will make some differance but, from what I've been told by the techs at the shop I go to ( GTR High Performance) that the lowers make the biggest noticable differance.

Your car is newer than mine so maybe the change is more noticable.
Thank you for your reply! I'm going to stay away from J&M, due to what Dustin (Spike) told me earlier about them. I know him personally and trust his judgment.

I think I will go ahead and get just the S/S and the LCA's, then. Like I said, I don't want any unecessary expenses. Thanks again for your reply and your advice. Every little bit helps!
 
  #64  
Old 04-29-2009 | 12:52 PM
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What was said about J&M? I have some on my car and was considering getting more. I've never heard anything bad about them so I'm curious.

Like you I don't race, although I'm curious about how my car would do at the track. I prefer canyon carving to straight line.
 
  #65  
Old 04-29-2009 | 01:05 PM
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By demons be driven.
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Originally Posted by Teufelshunde3/5
What was said about J&M? I have some on my car and was considering getting more. I've never heard anything bad about them so I'm curious.

Like you I don't race, although I'm curious about how my car would do at the track. I prefer canyon carving to straight line.
On the 2nd page, Dustin said none of their **** fit right and he had to modify it. Might not be true for all of their parts, but I'll take his word for it. I was looking at BMR stuff, anyway.
 
  #66  
Old 04-29-2009 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Black Sunshine
I understand what you mean, but this isn't about racing. It's about improving the upon the handling because the car is incredibly bumpy and bouncy during normal city/highway driving. I feel like I'm going to lose control of the car just going over a railroad track at normal speed. That's why I only want to get the parts that are necessary to tone down the bounciness and the wheel hop from the stock suspension.

Just because I don't race my car, that doesn't mean I don't want it to handle better.
If you aren't pushing the car to its limits, please explain how will it "handle better"? How exactly do you get wheel hop in the same respect?
Im not trying to be a dick or a naysayer, what im saying is my opinion is that if you don't race your car then you don't need all sorts hardcore suspension parts (you dont need 5way adjustable shocks/struts or hardcore lcas), get something thats made for the street (street springs and non-adjustable shocks/struts . Buying all these hardcore upgrades is a waste of money for your application and on top of that its not going to ride better than it does now, but in the end if the 3v plans on growing a set of ***** sometime in its life then go for it, it is afterall your car and your cash.

I've heard good things about:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/
products
 

Last edited by knife13; 04-29-2009 at 03:13 PM.
  #67  
Old 04-29-2009 | 06:00 PM
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J&M is terrible. I had nothing but problems with their products and they are just shitty cheap parts. My stainless lines sucked and did not fit correctly, and my subframe connectors did not fit correctly and had to be modded also.

If I was you I would get the lowers first and see how you feel after that. The lowers are gonna make the biggest difference in traction and wheel hop. Even my car with subframes,lower control arms, and adjustable shocks/struts, lowered 1" jumps around over rail road tracks. Every car is gonna do that no matter what just because of the way the road is around the tracks.
 
  #68  
Old 04-30-2009 | 08:39 AM
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By demons be driven.
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Originally Posted by knife13
If you aren't pushing the car to its limits, please explain how will it "handle better"? How exactly do you get wheel hop in the same respect?
Every time I go over a railroad track at 65mph on the highway or come to bumps/depressions in the road, the thing is so goddman bouncy, I feel like I'm going to lose control over it. When I drive my other car, it is not nearly this bad, even at the same speeds. I hate how bouncy it is and makes the car a lot less enjoyable to drive, even on short distances.

In regards to the wheel hop; you remember that area we lost you guys in in Lakeland? I work/hang out there and when I get the chance to pull out in traffic, I do, and I put it down the road. That's when I get wheel hop. I don't get it all the time, though. However, that isn't as bad as the bounciness is to me.

Im not trying to be a dick or a naysayer, what im saying is my opinion is that if you don't race your car then you don't need all sorts hardcore suspension parts (you dont need 5way adjustable shocks/struts or hardcore lcas), get something thats made for the street (street springs and non-adjustable shocks/struts . Buying all these hardcore upgrades is a waste of money for your application and on top of that its not going to ride better than it does now, but in the end if the 3v plans on growing a set of ***** sometime in its life then go for it, it is afterall your car and your cash.

I've heard good things about:
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/
products
I know you're not trying to be a dick, Brandon. I understand what you're saying and that's why I made this thread, to get opinions and ideas on what I need and what is best for me.

I'm not going to get those adjustable ones because I did more reading up on them last night and they're unnecessary for my style of driving and I really don't have the money to waste on them. I'll just stick to regular street driving parts if I end up doing this.

Originally Posted by spike_africa
If I was you I would get the lowers first and see how you feel after that. The lowers are gonna make the biggest difference in traction and wheel hop. Even my car with subframes,lower control arms, and adjustable shocks/struts, lowered 1" jumps around over rail road tracks. Every car is gonna do that no matter what just because of the way the road is around the tracks.
Will it at least decrease some of the bounciness? I'm not expecting a miracle or for there to be no floatiness/bounciness at all. If you don't think it will at least help some, then it is definitely not worth it to do this. I can deal with the wheel hop, even though when it does happen, it aggravates me, but this bounciness drives me ******* crazy.
 
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