grind off the nub on the timing cover.....

it's the one between the crank pulley and water pump pulley

 

the whole nub? dont need it? what was its purpose of it if u know off hand

 

i smoothed mine out before i powdercoated it so it looks like it was never there. i have no idea what it is for anyway...


- weight reduction

 

lol... ya what would u say, extra 40HP to the wheels, of course with the powdercoat

 

 

hey myillwill... lemme get those FRPP shorties from you. I'll give you a good price...get you that much closer to buying those longtubes.

 

pm me an offer bro.... i'm game...


maybe a even swap for a 5.4 intake???

 

sorry .. edited your response instead of mine... hahahah no changes made


PM sent. I'm already planning on a "special" deal for you.

 

how about a 105mm turbo? that should get me into the 10's........

 

question: what should i have for psi on the fuel rail at idle? i have 12psi znd i know that is wrong. i thought it was supposed to be 40ish. someone wanna chime in?

 

the fuel pressure in mine (99+) is static at around 39-40. The 96-98 with returnless varied pressure according to vacuum. Since you have a 278 cam you're pulling significantly less idle vacuum (if I'm right.. could be wrong) and that would cause the fuel pressure to drop with the FPR thinking that it should be droppping pressure.

A couple turns of a FPR adj screw will fix the pressure at idle but I'm pretty sure that would also crank up pressure under full load and run you pig rich. Gunna have to call in the tuner guns on this one. Never had to deal with a cam that big on a return style fuel system.

Do you have any way of determining manifold vacuum at idle and WOT? That could help.

A 105mm I don't think would work well. It'd probably be pretty inefficient until very high rpm on a 2v. 76-80mm should be plenty with the right ratios.

 

i have return style system in my 97. i have a kirben apr but i'm gonna put the stock one back on to test it...

 

with low vacuum the pressure rises to max, just like WOT. it varies with vacuum, so if he has 14 in/hg it could rise 5 psi from static idle.

12psi should barely run. something is wrong with either the gauge, regualtor, fuel filter, or fuel pump.

mine runs 55psi idle /65psi at WOT with a 255lph pump. but i have a custom MAF. so i need higher pressures to get A/F right open loop.

 

manifold vacuum at WOT is ideally 1"hg. but it is usually higher with intake restrictions at higher rpms..

 

i'm going to guess that the pump or reg is bad they are the only two things i've changed. i'll put the stock reg back on it and retest it.

 

I have a spare brand new SVT focus pump if you're interested.

 

what volume are they?

 

they're like 225 or so... plenty for most blower cars.

 

i had a walbro 255 but i guess it isn't to happy. i still need to test the kirben fpr. there is a good amount of vacum there when i put my finger on it.

 

he can't use PWM pumps on his 97.

 

assasinator, have you dyno'd yours yet with the new mods?

 

hey, is the 5.4 belt tensioner supposed to be grooved or smooth? and what kind of motor mounts should i use... when i pulled my motor out the passenger side was completly broken...

 

smooth.

poly, energy suspension makes good units.

 

i used soild and it doesn't vibrate much in the car....

 

i dynod it but the A/F was 18:1 to 16:1. my fuel pump was quitting. it's replaced now.

i'm going to the track dyno friday night.

this year with mismatched combo i ran

9.13 AT 79mph. that's about 240 rwhp. i lost .1 in 60ft from last year. the early combo had the 20" exhaust and cam timing jumped. totally lost low end and the 60' showed it.

judging by the dyno results and fixed A/F now, it will get into the 8's.

the launch technique i used last year was to flash it from idle. 2.0 60' with 3.08 gears.

early this year it had so little low end flashing didn't work. 2.44 60' times from an idle and 3.90 gears.

2.102 60' from fully stalled and 3.90 gears and low torque.

i never ran it with the 340 rwtq combo. but street runs put me several lengths on 05 gts'. that's what 60 rwtq more will do.

so what do i expect you say?

1.95 - 2.0 60' from idle(i have a lot of the torque back)
8.8 at 81 mph = 275rwhp

that's a .3/3mph gain over this years best low torque/hp run = 35rwhp more.

if so, my rwhp gains over the big torque dyno will be 25 rwhp. no matter what i lost 30+ rwtq from combo changes. so it's torque curve is more like an stock LS-1. just a little lower.

 

If anybody wanted to know, Kar Kraft is selling the Cobra R lower intake but be prepared for the price. Also, browsing through their site and read up on the Ford GT heads, looks like the new Bullitt is going to use those heads which probably means the new Bullitt is going to have a 5.4 in it.

 

what do u guys think is the easiest way to drop the motor in... with the mounts on the motor or the frame?

 

Definately on the engine.

 

On the engine for sure. Also, I would upgrade to the polyurethane mounts if it were mine.

 

I'd put it in from the bottom. mooey easier. Attach to k-member and tranny and bolt the whole shootin' match up at once. Takes like 4 guys but way fast.