4.6 4v runners are a bit too small in cross section for 5.4 4v, but for 2v, they will work great..

 

since i'm waiting on hood and bumper to be painted/put on i'm gonna try to get some LT's and possibly a lower lightning intake. i start a nite job at an auto parts store this week so i might wait for dynotime to get the last 2 things i wanted before the tune.

 

Hey guys.. sorry if I'm off topic, I'm new to this but I'm interested in the 5.4 drop in my 03 stang. Never heard about it till now. So a 5.4 would fit in an 03 with no problems? Just an adapter plate? everything else bolts right in? I am talking about 5.4 2v by the way also. Would I need to change out my hood? With my old 4.6... basicly just sell it or do I need parts off of it for the 5.4? If somone could let me know I'd really appreciate it. Thanks alot.

 

if you go with 2v the hood will have to go. if you can find a 96-98 cobra intake and adapters i think it's at least better. i have seen stock intakes poke out of 4" cowl hoods.

 

Hey R3d you think I'll need to notch the pistons on the 5.4 for my 278AHs? or will their be more room on the 5.4?

BTW I'm still wanting to buy your NOSzle kit just need about three weeks.

 

Hood stays the same but you'll have to notch 1 little part (I have pics from an article 5.0&SF did... super minor). You'll need adapter plates, your stock exhaust manifolds or FRPP shorties or one of our sets of custom longtubes, a 4.6 oil pan and pickup.

You can easily slap a canton oil pan on and finding stock manifolds is pretty easy. You'll also have to do some bending of an EGR tube or disable the EGR. Neither is difficult. Don't worry.. it's a simple swap that you can pull off. I plan on selling my 4.6 after the swap is done.


No notching will be required. The pistons are pretty far down the hole. As long as your cam timing is correct there'll be no problems even with the huge duration of the 278's. I'd use crower's stage 3 cam if you're looking that aggressive.

NOSzle kit sold yesterday. Sorry... I sold all of my nitrous stuff.




Dude that needed flexplate: take one from any stock 5.4. Try calling:
http://www.ddperformance.com/images/ford_flywheels.htm

They deal with manuals but I'll bet they can find you a good deal on a flexplate.

 

I found a billet aluminum flexplate made by Reactor, the only problem is it says its for a C-4 or Powerglide transmission, but its 8bolt and has 164 teeth. Wouldn't that work with a 4R70W? This is my only dilemma right now, I don't want to use the stock one because the condition is horrible.

I have a stock 5.4 flexplate, but it needs some major cleaning.

 

clean your stock 5.4 unit. otherwise you'll need to probably find a flexplate from a mach1 with an auto. IIRC those are 8 bolt and we know they'll hook up to a 4r70w

 

these are pics of the runners i cut off of a stock manifold. i am goipng to plastic weld a flange and bolt it to a stainless sheetmetal plenum with integral throttle body mount. this is the start of stage 3. the runners are 8.5" long. good for 7200 peak.

 

maybe just the angles in the pics but it looks like the entrances to the runners is kinda small. Have you considered modifying them for larger overall volume and bigger entrances?

 

i was thinking, cut the egr tube and put some high temp exaust hose and clamp it on to the egr tube would work and give it some play so it would be easy to work with

 

Naw , right now i'm 4.6 2v. I'm throwing so many ideas around in my head that i'm about to bust. I can't make my mind up, but more than likely the way its looking i'm going to take the cheap rout and go with a 5.4 2v and just keep my auto and then do the plates, exaust fix, and tune and i'm driving... since its my d.d. it can't have a lot of down time ya know.

 

wow, thats neat. Wish i had the guts to "plastic weild" i've never heard of it but it dont sound to fun to me lol. But good luck with your project man

 

That's a damned good idea. I was planning on just bending and flaring a pipe custom for the application but your idea seems easier. I'll have to check it out.

that's why I went the way I did. I started aiming at a v10 swap about 6 years ago. I made it to 5.4 2v for cost, complexity and downtime. I can always add power later.


Kinda like putting together a model. Just 1000x harder to do it right. I'm an aluminum fan myself. It's just easier for me to work with. I gotta give props too for taking the initiative on the plastic intake. That's ballzy.

 

a cobra 'r' intake only has a 1.8" section intake. that's a 2.54 square inches or around 6000 rpm peak torque rpms. this intake opening is 2.25" square or around 5200 rpm peak torque. that's independant of length or taper. the picture isn't referenced. it's plenty big.

as good as the cobra 'r' intake seems, it really only has a coeficient of 1.2. any decent tapered runner intake will murder that.

FAST is probably going to give up on a 4.6 3v intake. the stock intake flows well enough where only ported heads can use a better one. it isn't like the ls-1 where the intake sucks compared to the head flow.

i have considered using a band saw and cutting along the runner length and adding taper that way. i haven't figured a good way to fill in the gap.

 

lol thats way over my head... wish we could some how copy the ls1 head and use it on our motors lol, i know it isn't possible and its sacralige for saying but lol that would be cool.

 

I've used sheetmetal to patch holes in plastic panels. You have to get the edges hot and use the heat to get the metal to embed. It's a little tricky sometimes to keep the angle of the dangle correct but it's doable. A little epoxy and bango. This is of course with the right kind of plastic... key point. I don't know if the intake is thermoplastic or thermoset and what happens to that specific blend after remelting. You should have some chunks laying around... experiment.

 

i know the mustang manifolds can take a good bit of heat. i used a cracked one to experiment with powdercoating one by heating it up to 250 degrees then coating it and it didn't hurt the plastic at all.

 

i looked and couldn't find it. who here was doing the fab work to make long tube headers fit on the 5.4?

 

When using the adjustable cam gear, what do you do to remove the VCT? Is it just slap on the gears, degree the cams and be done?

Where is there information on this? Do you have some writeup for this?

DAvid

 

the intakes are xytel from dupont. they are treated with a softener and friction welded together. essenially they are nylon. they have just a high enough melting point to handle engine compartments.

 

the adjustable gear goes in place and the solenoid /spool stay in place. degree it and run it.

 

BBR and boss330racing.com sells the gears.

 

wonder with a supercharger or turbo if the incoming air can be hot enought to melt the plastic or the underhood turbo putting off serious heat. ever heard of one melting??

 

no they won't melt without several hundred degrees.

 

I was thinking about doing a 5.4 2 valve swap or a 4.6 3 valve swap. With Reichard Racing making the adaptor plates for a 5.4 3 vavle I am now throwing around the idea of a 5.4 3 valve swap. I got a question though, what headers specifically long tubes are going to work on a 5.4 3 valve swap?

 

Hey,
I'm looking at buying the T-trim. But is there a real difference between the CW/CCW and straight or curve...does it really matter or is it just personal choice...and they have a kit for the S-trim but how do you sub..the T-trim do you have to call them to do that...thanks for taking the time to read this...

 

you are not going to find off the shelf headers to fit 5.4 period. but no need to concern over 3v. the factory cast iron headers are within a few HP of after market shorties. essentailly they ARE headers. they aren't like 2v or 4v logs. magazines will call them logs to sell the products they are pushing. i know for a fact that 3v cast iron is good to 370-390 rwhp in a 5.4 3v.

 

Unless they are talking about 5.4 2v's. In which case I have several sets that will fit a 5.4, ready to ship. They just need to be coated.

 

assasinator does that mean you used the exhaust manifolds from a 05+ mustang. Were any modifications required or do they fit well right of the bat.