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Wide band O2 use

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Old Jul 12, 2007 | 08:35 PM
  #1  
copracr's Avatar
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Default Wide band O2 use

I'd like to get my a/f ratio looked at cause I just did some pretty major surgery to my car. My understanding is that a wideband O2 will tell me an exact a/f ratio. Can I get an approximate a/f ratio from one of those cheap gauges that hook up to my O2 sensor? I just want to watch my a/f for lean conditions, and those wide-bands are a bit over-priced.
 
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 09:10 PM
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I wouldnt put a price on making sure your a/f is in the right place.
 
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 09:36 PM
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Only way to be safe is with a wideband, the cheap ones wont give you an accurate reading. Plus I wouldn't check it myself if I was asking this question in the first place. Seek a professional!
 
Old Jul 12, 2007 | 10:19 PM
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All the cheap ones do is give you a fancy light show, they do not tell you any information that you can use.

I would buy a good wideband (Dynojet WBC, LM1, etc) or go get a dyno from a shop that can monitor your AFR through the tail pipe probe.
 
Old Jul 15, 2007 | 09:38 AM
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the narrowband sensors can't tell you anything useful. At full rich reading they're actually just telling you it's richer than 14.7:1. Wideband or nothing at all... I have the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 hooked to my Autometer A/F guage. Works great.
 
Old Jul 15, 2007 | 10:58 AM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
the narrowband sensors can't tell you anything useful. At full rich reading they're actually just telling you it's richer than 14.7:1. Wideband or nothing at all... I have the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 hooked to my Autometer A/F guage. Works great.
OK, but if I'm aiming for 12-14:1 then I'd need to be a little under 14.7:1, right?
While i'm idling or at part throttle the O2's will be switching, so they will be useless there. But when I punch it the reading will stabilize and I can correct as needed. Sounds reasonable to you?
 
Old Jul 15, 2007 | 02:50 PM
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The widebands are the only way to go. The cheap ones are just for show. I wouldnt trust the cheap ones for nothing. A wideband are the only ones to trust
 
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by copracr
OK, but if I'm aiming for 12-14:1 then I'd need to be a little under 14.7:1, right?
While i'm idling or at part throttle the O2's will be switching, so they will be useless there. But when I punch it the reading will stabilize and I can correct as needed. Sounds reasonable to you?
no... pay attention:

narrowband cannot tell you HOW MUCH below or above 14.7:1 you are.. just that you are to one side or the other. Narrowband FTL, Wideband FTW.

If you don't do wideband you're making pretty and meaningless lights appear.

I'm a cheap bastard and I'd let you cheap out if you could but you can't so please don't. Buy an LC-1 or LM-1 and when you get it, if you need help hooking it up, lemme know and I'll send you some helpful notes.
 
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
no... pay attention:

narrowband cannot tell you HOW MUCH below or above 14.7:1 you are.. just that you are to one side or the other. Narrowband FTL, Wideband FTW.

If you don't do wideband you're making pretty and meaningless lights appear.

I'm a cheap bastard and I'd let you cheap out if you could but you can't so please don't. Buy an LC-1 or LM-1 and when you get it, if you need help hooking it up, lemme know and I'll send you some helpful notes.
How do the widebands hook up, say in a permenant set up?
Do you remove your stock O2 sensors and plug in the WB unit?
Or do you drill holes in the pipes?
TIA.
 
Old Jul 16, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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[QUOTE=r3dn3ck;277303]no... pay attention:

narrowband cannot tell you HOW MUCH below or above 14.7:1 you are.. just that you are to one side or the other. Narrowband FTL, Wideband FTW.

QUOTE]

OK, this is what I needed to know. So many posts about being "a pretty light show" didn't really get at this.
 
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