To dry cars I use the flooding method, then electric leaf blower, then a waffle weave (microfiber) to get any remaining water. If the car is maintained correctly, then there should be very little water left after the leaf blower.

 

forced air works well for getting water out of the cracks like on a door handle and stuff, but I like using compressed air because its filtered, I don't really trust a leaf blower even though its probably safe and other people use them.

I'd really recommend a sealant, it has very durable protection that can last at least a year without needing to be re-applied, and looks good but not as "warm" as wax does.


Oh and if you aren't sure what flooding is, it basically is where you take the nozzle off your water hose so it flows high volume low pressure and start on the roof and just let the water almost pour onto the car so that it can "roll" off the car. It works well to remove the majority of the water to start off with.

 

That is not true. It depends on which sealant you're using, how often and what you use to wash the car with, how often you drive it, the weather conditions, method of applying it, etc., etc.

 

yeah i was thinking about just getting it done by a pro. and then just keepin up with it after that,

 

That would be a good idea. Some people will say to just do it yourself and not waste the money. Well realistically, the majority of those people are only scratching the surface when it comes to detailing compared to what a GOOD detailer does.

 

yeah i was just gona have it done and then keep up with it after it has a good detail.

 

oh does like 125 for a full outside detail seem ok people tell me this guy is the best in town. its 125 for outside, and 175 for outside and inside and a engine cleaning. so idk i might just get the outside done

 

i payed 135 for my outback to be done out side only, for 175 i would go for the whole deal.

 

well the inside is like perfect, i keep it clean and stuff so idk but yeah its like not that much more for the entire car in and out. so idk

 

I can give you a guy in NJ. I dont know anyone in PA.

 

this guy does a really good job on my boss 04 gt i think its worth it.

 

lol..you really love this guy in New Jersey huh?

 

Well hes one of the few legit detailers who doesnt take short cuts. Just trying to look out for you guys.

 

i know a guy here in washington. the only one i go to.

 

Aaron?

 

Klasse makes a good sealant and they advertise it lasts 6-12 months.

 

Just because they advertise that doesnt mean its 100% true. Same thing goes with mods and how much hp THEY say you gain. Who knows how they tested it?

 

haha thanks for watchin out for us man. and this guy seems liget i only hear good things,

 

The question is, who do you hear good things from?

 

some other mustangs he has worked on. ive seen his work and it looks good. not that that means he does not cut ne cornors. so idk

 

Theres a guy in MD that wetsands and buffs the entire car for $230.00. I've seen his work several times and I'm going to have mine done in the spring; it's amazing what a wetsand will do to for black car.

 

Wet sanding an entire car for $230, wow. Are you getting your daily driver wet sanded, factory paint job? Thats not a very good idea if so. Who is the guy?

 

and just when i thought winter was over it snows like half a foot. dam well ill get her clean sooner or later.
haha

 

i just washed both my cars finaly was above freezing

 

is it safe to use a snow brush on the painted parts of the car, ie roof and hood and trunk? i cant see that that is ok. but what other choice do i have. i wish i could put it in a garage. wat to do

 

It's probably not good for it, but like you said, what can you do. It's hard on your car to drive in the winter anyways, but it happens. There is a different level of care for a show car that never sees the road, and your DD or something you drive quite often.

 

I use the SAME exact method. I learned it on my own. Its really the easiest way to dry your car.

 

ill just have to be realy careful

 

Sorry i took so long, yes my daily driver with factory paint. Why is it a bad idea?

 

Unless its a show car with several layers of clear, I wouldn't wet sand it to remove orange peel. Why? The clear coat is supposed to protect the paint. Removing even very little can/ will remove the UV protection in the clear. Also, lets say you go ahead and wet sand it. Well you've removed clear now and what happens if you get a deep scratch? Are you going to wet sand again and risk going through the clear? You also run into issues polishing the car after you've wet sanded it, because polishing removes very little amounts of clear too. But if you've got very little to start off with... well you get the point.

There are a lot of different opinions and situations where it should/ could and shouldn't be done. But I think more often then not its best to just live with it.