procharger intercooler vs. vortech/novi non-intercooled
#61
12-13-2005, 10:09 AM
The more Boost the Better
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Stationed at Seymour Johnson NC
Posts: 191
Originally Posted by foncarelli
Sounds good, exempt the Walbro. You need a Focus SVT pump. Randy will be the man to see.
#62
12-13-2005, 10:14 AM
The more Boost the Better
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Stationed at Seymour Johnson NC
Posts: 191
Originally Posted by Stangdude27
I think the compressor blades are differnt than the stage 1 also stage 2 comes with 3 core A/A intercooler.
#63
12-13-2005, 10:16 AM
The more Boost the Better
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Stationed at Seymour Johnson NC
Posts: 191
Originally Posted by Stangdude27
Also I work for High Horse Performance didn't get the employee discount. After everything was said and done I've spent close to 6000 for everything else I've had to mod. 1800 New tranny 42lbs injector and 90mm Maf 400. 600.00 for SCT chip with Dyno tune. You will spend the money to get to your 360 which is judt fine for an auto. But be aware of the crap inside the AODE get a tranny cooler installed to keep temps down when you go to the track. Also I would get a new convertor and valvebody. Makes it almost as fun as having a 5 speed. Yep alot of money. But well worth it.
#64
12-13-2005, 05:35 PM
The maf and injectors that come with the procharger stage 2 kit im getting for basically 4k are 42# and Lightening Maf -Ford racing parts - what can better than that? My installer said 10lbs is good to go on stock blocks - need a super tune for 12lbs - if your not going to stomp it alot, but he wouldn't recommend it. He personally has installed over 200 prochargers ... still he might just want my money though 
#66
12-13-2005, 05:59 PM
Walbro pumps suck they tend to quit on you at WOT. Which will make your motor go kaboom. Buy either dual focus pumps or dual cobra pumps. And depending on the MAF if you buy a 90mm LMAF you might end up having to get a MAF xtender to get more gas above 5500. I know that crap diablo chip that comes in a kit will only get you to a tune shop to get a retune then you'll have to buy a new chip or Xcalibrator2. Or save your self a headache and order a mongoose kit from MPH. You get everything you need for the kit and a rock'n' tune.
#67
12-13-2005, 08:39 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
there isnt a mongoose procharger kit, Tim doesnt carry them. Also, single Focus SVT pump would be enough if your going to stay under 400RWHP. If you get a dual focus SVT, you have to get the 03/04 cobra tank, just like if u got the cobra pumps.
#68
12-14-2005, 05:11 AM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
there isnt a mongoose procharger kit, Tim doesnt carry them. Also, single Focus SVT pump would be enough if your going to stay under 400RWHP. If you get a dual focus SVT, you have to get the 03/04 cobra tank, just like if u got the cobra pumps.
stangdude is right about the maf pegging at 5500 mine does but the injectors are staying open to keep my af at 12.0 till 6k rpms
#69
12-14-2005, 05:24 AM
Originally Posted by stanger00
the pump wont support a 400 rwhp auto. thats what i found out and had to buy a kenne bell BAP.
stangdude is right about the maf pegging at 5500 mine does but the injectors are staying open to keep my af at 12.0 till 6k rpms
stangdude is right about the maf pegging at 5500 mine does but the injectors are staying open to keep my af at 12.0 till 6k rpms
#70
12-14-2005, 12:39 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
Ok. So what Maf would be recommended. The 90mm SCT Big Air Mass. This looks pretty damn good. And, what pumps?? Will dual Focus or dual Steeda work with the stock GT tank??
#71
12-14-2005, 03:58 PM
[QUOTE=whitethunder46]Ok. So what Maf would be recommended. The 90mm SCT Big Air Mass. This looks pretty damn good. And, what pumps?? Will dual Focus or dual Steeda work with the stock GT tank??[/QUOTE
We are just trying to save you some money and time since we have already been through the trial and error stages with Procharged automatics. I would definately recommend SCT meter, Cobra Tank w/pumps. Better yet if you could get down to MPH that would be even better but i thought i read earlier that you already have someone for the install. But most importanly a safe tune to keep that hp level right at 400 unless you can afford a rebuild.
We are just trying to save you some money and time since we have already been through the trial and error stages with Procharged automatics. I would definately recommend SCT meter, Cobra Tank w/pumps. Better yet if you could get down to MPH that would be even better but i thought i read earlier that you already have someone for the install. But most importanly a safe tune to keep that hp level right at 400 unless you can afford a rebuild.
#72
12-14-2005, 05:53 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
I didn't mean to sound rude or anything, just mean to ask which is recommended, sry if it came out otherwise. I'm only going to be running 8lbs. I doubt I'll get close to 400RWHP with an auto
#73
12-14-2005, 09:37 PM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
I didn't mean to sound rude or anything, just mean to ask which is recommended, sry if it came out otherwise. I'm only going to be running 8lbs. I doubt I'll get close to 400RWHP with an auto
Do an overkill on the fuel set up.
#74
12-14-2005, 10:06 PM
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally Posted by foncarelli
I know you werent trying to be rude and neither was i. All i am saying is, that when you get advice from people that have superchargers make sure they have the same transmission as you because as you can see, they react differently. If you get two or three guys telling you the same thing then its got to be true.
Do an overkill on the fuel set up.
Do an overkill on the fuel set up.
#75
12-14-2005, 10:16 PM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
I have an AODE, haha.
If I didnt supercharge right away, what should I do for good fun fast car?
3.90 gears? 75mm TB/Plenum? stall convertor, tranny cooler? Suspension kit?
What can I do to the engine that will be less tahn 1500 or so that will give me decent power?
If I didnt supercharge right away, what should I do for good fun fast car?
3.90 gears? 75mm TB/Plenum? stall convertor, tranny cooler? Suspension kit?
What can I do to the engine that will be less tahn 1500 or so that will give me decent power?
#77
12-15-2005, 11:05 AM
Originally Posted by whitethunder46
I have an AODE, haha.
If I didnt supercharge right away, what should I do for good fun fast car?
3.90 gears? 75mm TB/Plenum? stall convertor, tranny cooler? Suspension kit?
What can I do to the engine that will be less tahn 1500 or so that will give me decent power?
If I didnt supercharge right away, what should I do for good fun fast car?
3.90 gears? 75mm TB/Plenum? stall convertor, tranny cooler? Suspension kit?
What can I do to the engine that will be less tahn 1500 or so that will give me decent power?
#78
12-15-2005, 11:12 AM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
Well just got home from my tuner. Here's our plan: 1) Steeda Underdrive Pulleys 2) Accufab 75mm TB/Plenum 3) 2800 Stall Convertor - livid, likid, some company that starts with an "L" if know which, let me know 4) 4.10 Ford Racing gears 5) tranny cooler
Hoping that will get me mid 13's at least.
What else can I do to add some more power to the car?
Are cams too much of a hassle to do? 600 dollars isn't bad, but how bad is the install?
Hoping that will get me mid 13's at least.
What else can I do to add some more power to the car?
Are cams too much of a hassle to do? 600 dollars isn't bad, but how bad is the install?
#79
12-15-2005, 11:17 AM
install of cams is a big hassle and cost is a little high. lentech is the name. if your getting a deal on the pullies then get them otherwise dont even bother because they will have to come right back off when you install the charger.
my car was at 13.4 (without a tune) before the blower and i had less mods then you. without the gears it was a 13.6.
when i put a diablo mail order tune on my car to correct the speedo and to give me some more power i was slower at the track. i think it had to do with weather and the 275 tire that i put on.
my car was at 13.4 (without a tune) before the blower and i had less mods then you. without the gears it was a 13.6.
when i put a diablo mail order tune on my car to correct the speedo and to give me some more power i was slower at the track. i think it had to do with weather and the 275 tire that i put on.
#80
12-15-2005, 11:42 AM
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Dayton, OH
Posts: 3,556
Well the whole point of those mods above, was putting off the supercharger. What else could I do besides those performance mods above, or have I basically come to a dead end unless I supercharge?
#81
12-21-2005, 07:23 PM
get a 4200 stall and make sure you get the precision industries. you can use a single disk NA. also get 4.30 gears. also get a valve body. the street strip from perf auto or lentech is a good choice as if the full race version like i have. lastly, do cams if you wanna spend the time. stage one vt's i recommend since you wont have to do a valvepsring swap. youll be in a whole new car after these mods.
#82
12-27-2005, 10:30 PM
actually procharger comes with 42 and is alot cheaper to instal also.. face it the procharger is better just shut the hell up! 
#83
12-30-2005, 01:39 AM
omg - the truth revealed!!! - why do people talk **** about stuff they don't know about?
anyway - proflow is not a good fuel pump @255lph ... but the kit im getting comes with a chip tuner and 42lbs injectors (ford racing green tops)
anyway - proflow is not a good fuel pump @255lph ... but the kit im getting comes with a chip tuner and 42lbs injectors (ford racing green tops)
#85
01-09-2006, 01:09 AM
Originally Posted by BRANSDAMAN
The stage 2 is a different setup - don't buy the H.O. get the stage 2 - texashotrodshop on ebay has them - so does rpmoutlet.com at very good prices for complete setups. As per your question GT motors are worth 450 hp more than that isnt safe - so 8lbs is completely safe on the intercooled procharger and get you in the high 11's if you drive it right - also 10lbs is very very safe with a good tune - make sure you get the procharger diablo chip in the kit or get it dyno tuned locally - over 10lbs is not recommended - you can do 12lbs but your pushing your luck - if your going to beat it all the time 8lbs may be better but for a daily driver - mostly easy driving and a strip appearance every once in a while the 10lbs is the way to go bc u can run low and mid 11's and feel confident that your car is reliable. I know a guy who ran 14lbs for 2 yrs - still runs but is about to blow lol - long story short Im going with 10lbs as it is safe with incredible performance gains - make sure you get the 42# injectors and a lighting 90mm maf to go with - worth xtra 20hp - my goal is going to be around 405-425 to the wheels - so about 475 hp - bc I have long tube headers - throttle body and pullies - basically the more horsepower u can get for the boost is what you want - the culprit to engine failure isnt really horsepower - its the boost so the engine is safe for 10lbs and you can make over 450 hp with that 10lbs then go for it- as the motor isn't really going under any more stress than any other 10lbs setup - the difference bigger its flowing better bc of the other mods. A stock GT - (w/cat backs) and performance street tires can run high 11's and low 12's on 93 - with no other modifcations
SUMMATION: BAD ***
SUMMATION: BAD ***
im sorry if i skipped something later in the topic. but, i have to dissagree on this statement. the reason two different units my produce the same amount of BOOST#'s but one has higher hp numbers, its not do to more mods, it may have something to do with one unit may flow more CFM of air then a different one. you need to look at that too, more cfm under same amount of preassue is really not good if you car can not handle that much air in the cylinders. just because its the same amount of boots levels doesnt make it same amount of air in the chambers/cylinders. too much air will create too much cylinder preasure causing engine failure. sorry, but thats just my two cents, and i know this subject has been beat to death i just wanted that to be known before certain things were overlooked
#86
01-09-2006, 04:24 AM
Originally Posted by loosenut
im sorry if i skipped something later in the topic. but, i have to dissagree on this statement. the reason two different units my produce the same amount of BOOST#'s but one has higher hp numbers, its not do to more mods, it may have something to do with one unit may flow more CFM of air then a different one. you need to look at that too, more cfm under same amount of preassue is really not good if you car can not handle that much air in the cylinders. just because its the same amount of boots levels doesnt make it same amount of air in the chambers/cylinders. too much air will create too much cylinder preasure causing engine failure. sorry, but thats just my two cents, and i know this subject has been beat to death i just wanted that to be known before certain things were overlooked
#87
01-09-2006, 10:30 PM
With an auto you can make it a very fun car. Just watchout for the bull**** mods you don't need and listen to these guys aout ways to go. I hated my car when it was slower I've gone thru alot of crap just to get to 360 hp and 377tq. I'll tell ya your better off waiting on the S/C route until you get a motor set-up with lower compression to see some good gain from a S/C. After all the money I've spent I still have another 15k to go before my car will be perfect for me. Go with some weight saving mods and get a N/A tune get bigger injectors and a KB BAP, new maf,gears, headers, valvebody, struts and shocks. Make it a nice docile ride until you can afford a motor. I bet with the stuff I put up here you could make your car pretty damn quick and have a better foundation to work with when you go the S/C route my .02 on that. It's your car your money C to it how ever you want.
#90
01-17-2006, 12:49 AM
I must make a correction however .. our motors are limited my their rods at around 450 crank hp.... to be safe... any higher and the future is vague... some GTs pull 540 rwhp with stock blocks ... however they could blow tommorow or never ... thats the risk = BTW take a p1sc and d1sc .... same boost level the d-1sc has about 200 or more cfm advatage dependent upon rpm... bc its larger the whole boost cfm hp relationship is kinda difficult to understand
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
2000, dyno, help, intercooled, intercooler, intercooling, nonintercooled, novi, paxton, procharger, s197, setup, supercharger, vortech, vs
