Well I got the cash for a complete nitrous set up.

Which company should I go with? One of the bigger companies? lesser known, but high quality ones?

let me know your guys's experience with different systems...aall adivce and and opinion is greatly appreciated!

the only thing I ask is people who don't have personal experience with a system, don't just repeat something you heard on the internet please. I'm trying to make the most informed, best desicion I can, and I don't wan't any "well my freind's girlfreinds aunt's son ran the NX EFI kit with only a 50 shot, but the nozzle clogged and it exploded...and we found out that they ALL do that" or something like that

 

well i have the venom 1000, its a good kit but you wont see as much power as you would with a NX kit, the good thing about the venom is its easy to install and you dont need all the switchs and things that go along with other kits, venom is a sfae reliable kit for beginners, if you get anything else just be careful, dont over do it and DONT spray all the time especially when you first get it and do not spray with timing advanded and read alllllllll you can on nitorus

 

wrong place..

I would go with any company you like, like i told you before they all for the most part get there noids from the same place. I would look at places that have lifetime warrenty like compucar,NX (thats all i got off the top of my head.). go with a wet kit and use a 100-125 and you will be safe and make great power.

 

I have an Zex wet kit, it was a piece of cake to install, but you will see more power with NX on a the same shot.

 

i ran the zex wet kit on my toyota. ran a 75 shot and had no issues. the 75 hp jets is rated at the flywheel so it is a tad lower at the wheels. i know nx jets are closer to the wheels with their hp claims. also the zex was a snap to install. all in all i would buy zex again for quality.

 

Jon, they way I see it is you have two general options:

1 - A "trick kit" such as a Zex or a Venom. These kits are computer controlled and you can get the job done for $600. Add a warmer, some guages and the price increases.

2 - A nice wet setup from NX. By the time you are all said and done, you will be well over $2 grand unless you piece meal used parts. But you will need a dyno tune etc.... When it comes to nitrous, everyone forgets about all the extras.

Want my advice? Go with either #1 or by a buy a blower. Others will dissagree, but those are my thoughts....comming from an experienced nitrous user who is now using a Novi.

 

i have no idea how a nitrous kit costs over 2 grand. I dont have over 600 in mine and i have every saftey peice. All of it is new also.

 

I ran a compucar kit on my mine of a while...install was easy and I liked the perforance, plus its got a great warrenty!

 

Yea you already know what im going to say.......NX all the way. They have the highest quality solenoids on the market. The new lightning ones are carbon fiber, thats just killer. IMO, NOS makes the best fittings and braided lines, but NX makes the PLATE! Thats where you wanna go with it if at all possible. An 100 shot gives you enough power to slay stock 03 cobras with supporting mods such as exhaust.

Its a completely integrated system if you set it up properly and requires NO maintenence. No adjusting the nozzle. Speaking from experience you definately want to buy the best parts you can so you KNOW that you will be satisfied.

2K for an NX kit?? Come on I dont even have that in mine......

1.NX 4.6 Plate Kit $550
2.NOS Progressive Controller $240
3.Bottle Heater $100
4.Fuel Safety Switch $50

Total: $940 for everything you need to run 50-300 hp with traction........

+ Tune: $250 = $1190

Its soft power and you can tune it for a maximum power level of say.....420rwhp All that includes a tune, fuel pressure switch, window switch, WOT switch, progressive power, and pretty much all you ever want in an n20 system. GO NX

 

compucar kit for the win!
kit with full bottle and guage=$445
Fuel pressure saftey switch=$30
MSD digital window switch=$80
total=$555

and its totaly safe, and hits hard. I think you cant beat any of the big market kits really, i just like the fact that with a lifetime warrenty if it breaks send it in you get a new one. You cant beat that.

 

Yea but the problem is, you have to send all the stuff in. With NX pretty much all nitrous dealers have their parts in stock. I just walk in the store with my broken part and walk out 5 mins later with a new one free of charge......

If you want to talk about a budget system.......
NX Mainline Wet Kit $350
FPSS $30
Buy my MSD window switch for $40 shipped
Total= $420 for 100+rwhp!

 

I've narrowed it down to either the Compucar or NX kits. Both wet, and both single nozzle.

 

I was told with the plate system, when it hit's the engine goes REALLY lean..danerously lean

 

You have to send the noids in even for NX unless they changed it this year. The dealer doenst deal with that part, they just sell kits.

 

This is what I mean by cost:

Last time I checked, a brand new, out of the box NX kit with purge and warmer etc... is about $1200. Throw in a nitrous gauge...those things are expensive, a tuner (which he may already have), and a dyno time and you are over 2 large.

Perhaps I am wrong....

 

$2K for a nitrous setup? Thats ridiculously high.

NX Kit -$520
NX Gen X 2 Kit - $375
Dyno Tune Xcal 2 - $500

 

I just checked one site:

The nitrous express Stage i kit was $699, remote bottle opener is $269, Purge valve is $150, Bottle warmer is $125, if you get decent switch plate $85, Tuner $350, dyno time and custom tune is $250, electronic nitrous gauge (your only option is you don't want nitrous in the cab) and pod is $300.

That all adds up to $2100 or so. Do you need everything? No. But, most people seem to add components as they go. Plus, each time you spray costs about $4.00 to $5.00.

 

Why try to quote the ABSOLUTE highest prices for those items. You and I both know that one can buy a simple bottle warmer for at the most $100. $85 for a switch plate!? jeez were not all rolling around with $85 switch plates in our cars...lol, though it would be nice. You can find a stage 1 NX kit just about anywhere other than that site for $550, and who said he wanted a bottle opener........ Also, doesnt he already have a tuner/chip in the car?

Just buy the badass NX kit, slap it on with a window switch, heater. and a tune, then your pretty much good to go whoop some fast cars. Forget all the bottle heaters and purge and all that if your on a budget. You dont want to buy something just because its cheaper. You can have the best now and just build on it as time goes. Thats the same thing youll end up doing with any other kit.

 

The spike is not harmful to the motor as long as your stock tune is not out of whack. ANY n20 system will have a lean spike at the initial hit. The only reason it is more noticeable with the plate is because the plate is injecting the n20 further down the intake so the n20 gets to the cylinders faster. The plate is more efficient at distributing the n20 than the nozzle especially at high rpms. I have run mine for going on a year with NO problems. The car hasnt even missed a beat....If you have the car tuned, you can get rid of the lean spike. That shouldnt be your deciding factor.

 

Well i decided that I can't afford a SC right now so I might aswell get some nitrous. Can anyone that has the venom kit give me some advice. I just want a basic kit and run a small shot 100HP or less. Is Venom what I shoulld go with and how easy is it to install?

I was also looking at this kit:
http://www.nitrousexpress.com/Pages/...ularPlate.htm#

 

You dont need a remote bottle opener, just open the bottle after you get to where you are racing, get out and close it when your done.

Like I priced out the base NX kit was not $699, that is the MSRP not the street price. The Gen X 2 kit comes with the purge, blow down, heater, safety switch, etc. All total they are at most $975. Then if you get a dyno tune (which isnt required) you are at $500 including the Xcal. If you want a rpm window switch add a few hundred to that. So even if you get all the bells and whistles you arent near $2K.

 

Taken from summitracing.com

MSD-8969 RPM Activated Switch, LED Push Button Adjustment, $89.88

NEX-20922-10 Nitrous Oxide System, EFI Single Nozzle, Wet $589.95

NEX-GENX-2 Nitrous Upgrade, GenX-2, Bottle Heater, Pressure Gauge, Fuel Pressure Safety Switch, Blo-Down Tube, Kit $389.95

Add another ~$95 for a focus pump and at least another $250 for just the tune WHICH IS NECESSARY when running a 75 shot or greater. If not then please at least put your car on a dyno and check everything. Then you have to add on the price of a chip or tuner.

So thats around $1414.78 plus shipping (not including the chip or tuner). Plus add on all the little things you need just to install the kit because we all know stuff like this doesnt go on without needing anything else. Also who wants to put the nozzle in the stock rubber inlet tube? Also other things such as gauges. And what if you cant install everything yourself? Thats going to cost a lot which will put you over the 2k mark. So yes, nitrous is expensive when you do it the right way. Now you could always be cheap and not get a lot of this stuff, but then you're risking your motor which could cost you up to 7k to fix. So if you dont have the money to add a power adder, then dont do it. Otherwise you could be paying 5x as much to fix your stupid mistake.

 

The best part of a nitrous kit is you cna add these things as you go. I didnt have a window swtich or FPSS at first those were added 2 months later when i had funds for them.

Just get one and install it and have fun, you will love the power of nitrous. Nothing like it, just boom pushes you into the seat its lots of fun.

 

jus run the Compucar "Nitrous in a bag" kit....it's a dry shot, but is soo much fun since it's soo undetectible. You pop your hood and everyone is looking for braided lines and the solenoids. With this kit...the braided line is about 5" long and the solenoid is right at the bottle, along with it plugs right into the cigarette lighter with a stretch cord push button. The actual line the nitrous goes through is a hard nylon type line thats black and pooks like a normal line under the hood. I run this kit and with a 80-dry shot....it only adds about 60hp to the wheels but makes a world of difference and everyone around my area runs nitrous and no one knows my car is on the bottle. even when given a flash light so they can look for the lines. cost is about $325

 

what's a blow down tube?

 

I have another question..

how necessary is an a/f ratio guage or wideband? because I'm probably gonna get the A-pillar guage holder for two guages...one will have a fuel pressure guage and i don't know what to put in the other..because the nitrous pressure guage will be on the bottle

 

and what about plugs? i understand that for every 50 shot I need to go 2 stages colder

but how would startups be 7 months down the road in the heart of winter?

 

OK sure that is great if you want just 60hp and not be able to show it off. What Badfish should do is ask if he really will be satisfied with that or not. I know myself and others feel the little 60 and then they want more, especially when 100 is a pretty safe shot......

Do you really want or need for the n20 to be undetectable? I know I like showing my braided lines off and people love to stop and take a look at it. Everyone is going to eventually find out that you have it and then the cats outta the bag. Also youd have to be a complete noob if you cant notice that a car is SO much faster than you when theyre not supposed to be. Dont be one of those guys riding around not telling what size shot hes running, or the guy who tells you its stock and he has a 100 shot on it......

Dry kit < Wet Kit

wet makes more power and is safer IMO.

 

Install NGK TR6's gapped at .035 and youll be fine all year round and while N/A.

 

If the pressure of the bottle gets too high itll explode. Well instead of this happening the blow down tube releases the extra pressure. You need this to run at most tracks.

IMO a wideband is very necessary when running any power adder. The a/f is very important and should be monitered. Go with a wideband, not an autometer a/f gauge. Since you dont want a nitrous pressure gauge on the pillar, then put in a fuel pressure and wideband gauge.

You dont need to go down 2 steps colder per 50 shot. I believe you're thinking of timing. Im running NGK TR6 plugs with my 100 shot. They are 1 step colder. If you run a 150 shot then 2 step colder plugs would probably be better. Also, everyone says to gap them to .035. I talked to Ed Clark about this who is doing my tuning, and he said gap them to .030.