First Post here...Some Questions....Thanks
#1
02-06-2006, 06:10 PM
First Post here...Some Questions....Thanks
Hello all. I introduced myself in the newbie forum, now I wanna hear from the experts. I have a 4.6L V8 and was wondering what the best exhaust and CAI are for my car. The year is 03. Does anyone know the Stock HP/TQ that my car is running??? I want to compare when I get it dynoed. I want to raise my HP to at least 320-350 RANGE and run at least a 11.20 1/4 Mile. I've been dragging bikes for awhile (ZX10R) 10.72 @ 136MPH that is on a stock bike just being lowerd and strapped. I just need some advice from the experts. Thanks
Bragg
Bragg
#2
02-06-2006, 06:52 PM
you can run that time with that Hp if you can drive, its stick shift, and has traction.
As per the cai and exhuast. you want Long tube headers,a shorty mid pipe, and a catback.
they are all close in power so choose the headers and catback off your budget (and sound for the catback).
Me i would go full mac and save the money you didnt spend towards a nitrous kit or blower.
As per the cai and exhuast. you want Long tube headers,a shorty mid pipe, and a catback.
they are all close in power so choose the headers and catback off your budget (and sound for the catback).
Me i would go full mac and save the money you didnt spend towards a nitrous kit or blower.
#3
02-06-2006, 07:21 PM
If I read your thread right you have an 03 GT....so stock flywheel hp is 260 with the standard 15% drive train loss puts you at 221 rwhp & 255rwtq give or take. If you want 320-350rwhp your going to have spend some serious cash. It's pretty hard for a 2 valve GT to get those kind of numbers without some sort of power adder like nitrous and boltons......I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but there are N/A GT's on this site with just about all the boltons, including long tube headers and probably are still in that
280rwhp range, which is pretty damn good.
280rwhp range, which is pretty damn good.
#4
02-06-2006, 08:39 PM
The only way to get that high of numbers is you would also have to do cams and heads along with bolt ons. I would think some pretty heavily suspension modifications would also have to be done to hit that low of a 1/4 mile time with only 340RWHP.
As far as exhaust I personally have full SLP, very impressed and love it. A bit pricey but IMO well well worth it. If you want to do a full CAI I think a straight JLT is the only option here.
As far as exhaust I personally have full SLP, very impressed and love it. A bit pricey but IMO well well worth it. If you want to do a full CAI I think a straight JLT is the only option here.
#5
02-07-2006, 08:37 AM
a manual with all the bolt on's and cams can go over 300rwhp. But you dont need that much power to run those times with gears full bolt on's and a set of cams i dont see why you cant go that fast. Me i would just do gears,nitrous,tune,tires, some bolt on's and call it a day.
#6
02-07-2006, 08:59 AM
www.modularpowerhouse.com
Look for the Mongoose Supercharger kit. That is all you need for 400 rwhp.
That or nitrous.
/thread
Welcome by the way.
Look for the Mongoose Supercharger kit. That is all you need for 400 rwhp.
That or nitrous.
/thread
Welcome by the way.
#8
02-07-2006, 04:11 PM
First things first: You have a goal. To reach that goal you need:
Suspension upgrades
Chassis upgrades
forged bottom end (or you'll walk home someday)
upgraded clutch
power adder.
Suspension is where I'd put your money first. You can do more with good suspension than any amount of power. A good drag launch setup with adjustable RLCA's and properly spec'd coil overs all the way around will drop lots of weight and plant the tires a lot better.
You need subframe bracing to keep the torque focused at the ground and not twisting the chassis. Not mandatory but they help more than you'd think.
Forged bottom end. If you have to ask why, go read the FAQ's.
The clutch, you'll need more clamping power to make consistent 11 second runs and have a reliable ride. Not to mention the amount of power you're looking for justifies it.
Power adder. You ain't going to see 350 rwhp from a 2V unless you have a magic wand and a lot of money or a power adder. Nitrous can be turned off and has the highest bang for the buck but can be dangerous in the hands of kids, blowers are easy enough to use but expensive and hard to install and you can't just shut them off when you don't need them. Centris are cheaper, positive displacement make more torque and cost a bundle.
Upgrade your brakes. you can never go wrong with upgraded brakes.
Now then, you can get into the low 12's on 350rwhp but I don't see you hitting 11.20's with anything short of 475rwhp. I know a perfect launch and skilled driving blah blah blah... the math says you need 475 at the wheels to get a 3500lb object to see the end of 1320 feet in 11.2 seconds.
At that, an 11second car as heavy as a 03GT is going to shred trannies and diffs and turn axles into twizzlers, so you might as well pop in a 9" rear and a TKO500 so you can do that kind of beating on your car and still drive it home. The best you should be hoping for on 350rwhp is about 12.4 in the 1/4.
Good luck.
End the voice of reason.
Suspension upgrades
Chassis upgrades
forged bottom end (or you'll walk home someday)
upgraded clutch
power adder.
Suspension is where I'd put your money first. You can do more with good suspension than any amount of power. A good drag launch setup with adjustable RLCA's and properly spec'd coil overs all the way around will drop lots of weight and plant the tires a lot better.
You need subframe bracing to keep the torque focused at the ground and not twisting the chassis. Not mandatory but they help more than you'd think.
Forged bottom end. If you have to ask why, go read the FAQ's.
The clutch, you'll need more clamping power to make consistent 11 second runs and have a reliable ride. Not to mention the amount of power you're looking for justifies it.
Power adder. You ain't going to see 350 rwhp from a 2V unless you have a magic wand and a lot of money or a power adder. Nitrous can be turned off and has the highest bang for the buck but can be dangerous in the hands of kids, blowers are easy enough to use but expensive and hard to install and you can't just shut them off when you don't need them. Centris are cheaper, positive displacement make more torque and cost a bundle.
Upgrade your brakes. you can never go wrong with upgraded brakes.
Now then, you can get into the low 12's on 350rwhp but I don't see you hitting 11.20's with anything short of 475rwhp. I know a perfect launch and skilled driving blah blah blah... the math says you need 475 at the wheels to get a 3500lb object to see the end of 1320 feet in 11.2 seconds.
At that, an 11second car as heavy as a 03GT is going to shred trannies and diffs and turn axles into twizzlers, so you might as well pop in a 9" rear and a TKO500 so you can do that kind of beating on your car and still drive it home. The best you should be hoping for on 350rwhp is about 12.4 in the 1/4.
Good luck.
End the voice of reason.
#9
02-07-2006, 04:17 PM
FWIW, the best I've seen from a well massaged 2V is 314hp/302tq at the wheels. That was with an intake, stout cams, P&P heads, bigger valves, a compression bump, exhaust and a tune. That guy is staring high 11's in the face but he's a mad man and doesn't mind breaking things near as I can tell... he breaks things a lot.
#10
02-07-2006, 04:28 PM
i have bassani catted x pipe and borla race catback and i am going to get bassani equal lenth headers. to hit 340-350rwhp you want you r going to have to do heads, cams, intake and some major suspension mods to hit the 1/4 mile times good luck
#11
02-07-2006, 04:54 PM
You also have a 4V. Way more punch than a 2V. Even with 2 1/2 heads from MPH, aggressive cams, and a goooood intake you're still only gonna be at 340RWHP. That imparticular combo is 4000 bux BEFORE installing.
I think it's very possible to hit mid 11's with only 350RWHP. You'd have to do some serious weight reduction and suspension mods.
The power adder would obviously be the best and easiest but in no way would you HAVE to get a new block. A SAFE tune is perfectly fine on the stock block with 8psi. A guy I know has run a Vortech S-trim for 90,000 miles on his stang now with no problems.
I think it's very possible to hit mid 11's with only 350RWHP. You'd have to do some serious weight reduction and suspension mods.
The power adder would obviously be the best and easiest but in no way would you HAVE to get a new block. A SAFE tune is perfectly fine on the stock block with 8psi. A guy I know has run a Vortech S-trim for 90,000 miles on his stang now with no problems.
#12
02-07-2006, 06:25 PM
A little about me!
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
First things first: You have a goal. To reach that goal you need:
Suspension upgrades
Chassis upgrades
forged bottom end (or you'll walk home someday)
upgraded clutch
power adder.
Suspension is where I'd put your money first. You can do more with good suspension than any amount of power. A good drag launch setup with adjustable RLCA's and properly spec'd coil overs all the way around will drop lots of weight and plant the tires a lot better.
You need subframe bracing to keep the torque focused at the ground and not twisting the chassis. Not mandatory but they help more than you'd think.
Forged bottom end. If you have to ask why, go read the FAQ's.
The clutch, you'll need more clamping power to make consistent 11 second runs and have a reliable ride. Not to mention the amount of power you're looking for justifies it.
Power adder. You ain't going to see 350 rwhp from a 2V unless you have a magic wand and a lot of money or a power adder. Nitrous can be turned off and has the highest bang for the buck but can be dangerous in the hands of kids, blowers are easy enough to use but expensive and hard to install and you can't just shut them off when you don't need them. Centris are cheaper, positive displacement make more torque and cost a bundle.
Upgrade your brakes. you can never go wrong with upgraded brakes.
Now then, you can get into the low 12's on 350rwhp but I don't see you hitting 11.20's with anything short of 475rwhp. I know a perfect launch and skilled driving blah blah blah... the math says you need 475 at the wheels to get a 3500lb object to see the end of 1320 feet in 11.2 seconds.
At that, an 11second car as heavy as a 03GT is going to shred trannies and diffs and turn axles into twizzlers, so you might as well pop in a 9" rear and a TKO500 so you can do that kind of beating on your car and still drive it home. The best you should be hoping for on 350rwhp is about 12.4 in the 1/4.
Good luck.
End the voice of reason.
Suspension upgrades
Chassis upgrades
forged bottom end (or you'll walk home someday)
upgraded clutch
power adder.
Suspension is where I'd put your money first. You can do more with good suspension than any amount of power. A good drag launch setup with adjustable RLCA's and properly spec'd coil overs all the way around will drop lots of weight and plant the tires a lot better.
You need subframe bracing to keep the torque focused at the ground and not twisting the chassis. Not mandatory but they help more than you'd think.
Forged bottom end. If you have to ask why, go read the FAQ's.
The clutch, you'll need more clamping power to make consistent 11 second runs and have a reliable ride. Not to mention the amount of power you're looking for justifies it.
Power adder. You ain't going to see 350 rwhp from a 2V unless you have a magic wand and a lot of money or a power adder. Nitrous can be turned off and has the highest bang for the buck but can be dangerous in the hands of kids, blowers are easy enough to use but expensive and hard to install and you can't just shut them off when you don't need them. Centris are cheaper, positive displacement make more torque and cost a bundle.
Upgrade your brakes. you can never go wrong with upgraded brakes.
Now then, you can get into the low 12's on 350rwhp but I don't see you hitting 11.20's with anything short of 475rwhp. I know a perfect launch and skilled driving blah blah blah... the math says you need 475 at the wheels to get a 3500lb object to see the end of 1320 feet in 11.2 seconds.
At that, an 11second car as heavy as a 03GT is going to shred trannies and diffs and turn axles into twizzlers, so you might as well pop in a 9" rear and a TKO500 so you can do that kind of beating on your car and still drive it home. The best you should be hoping for on 350rwhp is about 12.4 in the 1/4.
Good luck.
End the voice of reason.
#13
02-07-2006, 06:31 PM
If you do headers, midpipe, catback, throttle body and plenum, reprogrammer, 4.30 gears, slicks, 31 spline axles, pullies, and a nice drag setup, 12.90s is reachable with a great run once you learn the car and the track.
#14
02-07-2006, 07:18 PM
Originally Posted by BraggStang
First off i'm not a kid...I'm 33 years old. I am in the Military and this Car I just bought is a TOY!! Do I have money??? Enough!!!! I just thought It would be fun to build a 4.6 to run 11.2's!!! There are many mustangs in NC that run 11's, Some run 10's!!!! So it is not far fetched! I thank you all for your input. I will research until I can come up with a combination that allows me to run what I'm looking for! I bought the Mustang to show my pride for America!!! American Muscle rules and I want to show it on the track!!! Thanks again!!!!!
The stock block should be limited to 420rwhp. Thats not gonna get you 11.20s. You can run a good high 11 with it but I dont see 11.20s. The turbo kit will give you enough boost for up to like 800 hp if you have a forged block.
After you get the turbo kit on you will need a built bottom end to handle a hard launch. The rearend will cost you around $900 said and done.
Next you need a new clutch. If your going past 500hp you should get a stronger tranny.
After all that youll have a badass freakin mustang and I want the first ride.
#15
02-08-2006, 06:53 AM
Originally Posted by r3dn3ck
FWIW, the best I've seen from a well massaged 2V is 314hp/302tq at the wheels. That was with an intake, stout cams, P&P heads, bigger valves, a compression bump, exhaust and a tune. That guy is staring high 11's in the face but he's a mad man and doesn't mind breaking things near as I can tell... he breaks things a lot.
#16
02-08-2006, 08:13 AM
Spike, I'm only quoting those things I have direct seen-it-do-it kind of knowledge of. There's more in that motor but, it's a street car and I don't think the owner wanted to do a full tilt tune for off track work. 320rw on motor for a 2V just screams losing tq but I'm probably wrong and the motor makes killer tq too..
bragg... it reads like you've gotten upset with something I've typed. So to clarify, I'm not treating you or addressing you like a kid, and I meant no disrespect, so just take it for the advice that it was. You'd think I kicked your dog and called you Nancy the way you dropped those exclamations.
Fact of the matter is: YOU WANT A POWER LEVEL THAT WILL NOT YEILD THE TIMES YOU ASKED TO TARGET. You may want to revisit your time goals or your power goals but you'll not see those times with under 450rwhp and that's the way it is because Isaac Newton said so.
So, all of the mods I listed are expensive and usually hard to install. They all require a good bit of planning to make them work together. They all are not required to see 11.2 second time slips but, you'll sure want them all.
You have money, cool, let me help you spend it.
VT Engines Shortblock: 4K
P&P heads + cams: 2K
kenne Bell blower: 7K
MM Launch box: 4K
Other MM goodies: 1K
Cage: 1K
Rear end: 2K
Clutch and little stuff: 1K
Fuel System: 2500
Looks like about 24K for 11.2's with a reliable package you can drive home afterward.
I realize you said it's a toy but, I never liked it when my GI Joe's broke because I hit them with a hammer. It was still my fault for using them in a manner inconsistent with their design. The same could be said of dragging 11.2's in a GT without beefing up the parts that will break. I'd sure want to try steering that bad boy once or twice down the track when you finish.
BTW, American Muscle rules and jeredan2003 is correct about a turbo being a quick way to big power but I wouldn't even consider a kitted version for you. I'd think about a custom setup with a big compressor. I'd still use the Kenne Bell since they're cheaper to install.
peece owt broh.
bragg... it reads like you've gotten upset with something I've typed. So to clarify, I'm not treating you or addressing you like a kid, and I meant no disrespect, so just take it for the advice that it was. You'd think I kicked your dog and called you Nancy the way you dropped those exclamations.
Fact of the matter is: YOU WANT A POWER LEVEL THAT WILL NOT YEILD THE TIMES YOU ASKED TO TARGET. You may want to revisit your time goals or your power goals but you'll not see those times with under 450rwhp and that's the way it is because Isaac Newton said so.
So, all of the mods I listed are expensive and usually hard to install. They all require a good bit of planning to make them work together. They all are not required to see 11.2 second time slips but, you'll sure want them all.
You have money, cool, let me help you spend it.
VT Engines Shortblock: 4K
P&P heads + cams: 2K
kenne Bell blower: 7K
MM Launch box: 4K
Other MM goodies: 1K
Cage: 1K
Rear end: 2K
Clutch and little stuff: 1K
Fuel System: 2500
Looks like about 24K for 11.2's with a reliable package you can drive home afterward.
I realize you said it's a toy but, I never liked it when my GI Joe's broke because I hit them with a hammer. It was still my fault for using them in a manner inconsistent with their design. The same could be said of dragging 11.2's in a GT without beefing up the parts that will break. I'd sure want to try steering that bad boy once or twice down the track when you finish.
BTW, American Muscle rules and jeredan2003 is correct about a turbo being a quick way to big power but I wouldn't even consider a kitted version for you. I'd think about a custom setup with a big compressor. I'd still use the Kenne Bell since they're cheaper to install.
peece owt broh.
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