post pics...

 

You'll have to wait till saturday. I live an hour away from my car till I get it running. It's at my dad's house and I'll be going in to work on it this weekend.

 

same boat as me....

 

I don't know if this will post from this link or not.

 

Got the block and RA back. Cleaned the block, painted it, and filed the rings. Putting the crank and rods in next week.

I do have a question though. The coolant line that comes out the block behind the water pump....where does that go? On my 4.6 block it goes to the back of the DS head. I take it this 5.4 is the same? Car does not have a heater core if that matters. Thanks.

 

It's supposed to go to the heater core, so I'd just hook it up the same as the 4.6.

 

I'm trying to figure out where to run the line from my heater core too. On the 2v it went to the intake, now I don't know where to put it.

 

So after seeing an interesting idea on a modular fox car, I've decided to delete my a/c and move my alternator where the compressor goes. Then I'll be turning my intake around and I won't have to modify anything else and can use a stock style CAI that I made. This oversimplifies everything and as soon as I can address this head cooling issue, I should have no more problems.

 

Another thing I've been thinking about today. As far as vacuum lines go. I know I'll have one going from my pcv valve on one of my cam covers to the intake manifold and the line that runs from my intake pipe to the manifold. With no AC, do I have any other lines to worry about or have I got it all figured out?

 

The only other vacuum lines I had to run was for the fuel pressure regulator, and the line that goes through the firewall to run The HVAC stuff.

 

What line do I have to run for the FPR? I don't even know where to attach a line to it. I have the Aeromotive one. I have a spare vacuum port on my intake manifold that's really small that I was just going to cap off, if I need to attach it to my regulartor, I will but I don't know that I need to. The HVAC stuff is going to be gone so that's no worry. I'm removing the controls and putting in a plate for gauges.

edit: I don't have my regulator in front of me but I think it does have a vacuum port on it after a google image search. I can handle that though.

 

Hey, I'm new to this site and the mustang community. I recently bought a 99 mustang gt and the guy I got it from gave me a 2001 ford lighting motor and transmission with it. Can this swap out in my car? It's a 5 speed. He said he was planning on swapping them out and I wasn't sure if it could be done.

 

sure, just go thru this tread and you should be able to find everything you need on the swap. but you can also just ask everyone questions aswell.

 

update: not the best pic but after shop moving/closing i got work back on my car. here is the chromoly core support to replace the bent factory one..

 

Is the swap worth it? Or should I just sale the lighting motor and supercharger and go with a turbo or a supercharger?

 

if your able to do the work yourself and not need the car right away then do it. otherwise just build a 5.1 stroker with FI on it...

 

finally got my 2v 5.4 in today, few more details but she is ready to fire pretty quickly, just need a few daylight hours off work to finish up.

i am so ready to drive this car again.

 

Hey guys, new member here. Ive been reading through this thread and am planning on doing this swap after tax time.
Ive got a 3 stage plan for my build of what i want my car to be. The first stage, getting a 5.4 in there. To start off i plan on just doing a stock 5.4, cams, tubular k member, and possibly some FRPP shorty headers.

I will have several questions along the way, hope ya'll dont mind.
The first question, whats the best aftermarket cams to run on a stock 5.4? Something i wont have to worry about PTV issues with on the stock pistons and heads, but is also going to take advantage of the extra cubes?

 

Also, what vehicles came equiped with the PI 5.4 2v? 99-04 F-150's, 00-03 Expedition, any others?

 

i really need a 2v hardballer intake if anyones got one for sale. pm your best price shipped to 34266.
thanks.

 

Short video:


Pictures:


http://earnhartbuilt.com/

 

 

ok I have read my way thru the first 150 pages of this thread and got a alot of info to go and will be picking up a 5.4 when I get home. A few quick questions though
1) did the LT problem ever get solved or is it still an issue?
2) did they ever come out with a 5.4 intake like r3d was talking about or are we still having to use adapter plates and where is a good place to get some?

 

jarryd: dang glad to see your back into getting it finished up, been too long.
will: same to you, way too long. any idea on how well those coatings on the pistons will hold up or help?
both cars look great so far though. cant wait to see more updates on them.
rridor: not sure on the long tubes but as far as an intake yeah theres been one on the market. the hardball'r intake

 

Here it is, after 1 year and 3 months, through unemployment, stress, depression, lack of funds, lack of tools, lack of help, ITS DONE!!! I installed the last missing part today! Thank you Myillwillinc for the parts and all the help!! Could not have done it without you!

Got my X3 tuner in the mail on tuesday! Installed Intake Air Temp sensor that was missing today, and that clears the only trouble code that I had! Pretty good for a previous Honda guy! Break in time, I will post up my photos in a few days, and some more vids are coming!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=91fnz...ature=youtu.be

 

rock on!!!! congrats man, can't wait to see dyno and track times from that beast.....

 

Gonna take my sweet *** time breaking it in. Today I took it for a drive down to get some gas, after I insured it. When I came home and parked it, i looked down and saw the factory oil pressure gauge had dropped to nothing. I let it cool off, and started it again and it was all good. No codes or anything. Ill drive it again tomorrow after I get a tag on it.

On a side note, I forgot to grease the throwout bering... and it squeaks steady with the clutch let out.... of all the things to forget

 

If you're talking about the chirping, that's either a bad TO, retainer, or the cable being too loose. I'd assume the parts are fine, so just tighten the cable up a bit. The face of the bearing shouldn't be greased. If you got the OEM bearing (Ford/Sachs), the sleeve is greased so if you forgot to grease the retainer, it's not a big issue.

 

I am talking about the chirping, but it is steady. If I push the clutch in like 1/2"-1" it totally goes away. I did not want to just ajust the noise out without knowing what I was doing, I feared I was going to mess with clutch engagement. I got a brand new OEM stuff from rock auto, I did not want it slipping at all.

Thanks Bassman!!

 

Do I do it by manipulating the linkage and ratchet thing under the dash? I am reading about how to press the clutch, then let it out and hold the mechanism until I hear clicks. I can figure it all out, but is that the right process?

Other than that, I have no check engine lights, no rattles, just a slight knock noise when it is cold, very faint, cant even hear it unless your a psyko and put your ear on the motor while its warming up... who does that? Anyway, I need to get a plate on it, and go break it in right. So I am not going to drive it anymore until I can go a few miles.

Do you know what might be a issue if the odometer and trip are not counting miles? I am going to google it right now and I was just rambling. lol.