Ya i was wondering if you stretched a cobra or mach1 intake to the 5.4 how it would react... if it would be pretty good all around, and better then the Navi lower with the box uppers... and more streetable then the Sullivan... but probably not as good as the Aussie intake...

anyone have any dyno numbers or anything?

 

Looking at a few different fluid coolers. I'm going to do all that custom at this point unless I can find a cheap Termy FMIC (and I mean CHEAP).

My old blue Pro-Prod fuel rails look like they will work with some minor fabrication for the hold downs. I'll have to flip them around though. Still need to do coil pack fit tests and all that jazz though. I'm considering doing a return style conversion but I may do something a little more radical... thinking 32 gallon fuel cell, cut a hole and weld in a mounting bracket in the trunk, toss an A1000 and some more AN line at it front to back. At WOT it's going to drink gas like Paris Hilton drinks *** so I want to be sure there's enough supply.

There will be some wiring f00 to be done. Need to extend several sensors to new locations. It's one of those things you'll want a few weeks to work on. At least until I get the how-to done.

why do you gotta give us all hardons like that? Planning on building another?

Richard Holdener did a big write up of 4v intakes. From my interpretation it looked like the C-head cobra intake was the best overall. I'm going to go ahead and say that the sullivan appears to be the only one that's simple enough to deal with without being nasty expensive.

 

i will be looking foward to seeing how your car turns out. well if you need help finding anything ill see what i can do 4 ya

 

WHOLY RUSTED METAL! MOTHER OF SAMSON!

THE beast runs!!!!!!!!!!

I started it last nite with no exhaust and she purrd! SWEET!

STUPID Summit H-pipe kit will not bolt up! Floor pan is in the way. Thanks OK! Cause today I extended the pipe to clear the floor.

Another road block came in the shop today. OSHA..................

 

ok gents. im starting to pull the motor/trans in preperation for the 4V 5.4. any tips?

 

Don't screw up

 

ok gents. im starting to pull the motor/trans in preperation for the 4V 5.4. any tips?

 

There will be some wiring f00 to be done. Need to extend several sensors to new locations. It's one of those things you'll want a few weeks to work on. At least until I get the how-to done.


Hey R3d do u have to extend wires on the 5.4 2v or the 4v? I thought on te 2v we didnt..

 

welp still waiting on rods this friday is week three friggen ebay stores... wpparts stray away cant get ahold of them by phone or email. but ordered my cms stage 2 n/a cams last night..and to all who have changed valve springs i salute you im getting close to throwing the damn things through a wall removal was easy reinstall sucks major ***.

using a offset jaw spring compressor and its hell on earth ive got about 4 hrs into 10 or 11 springs still 5-6 more to go ;x but hopeflully the **** heads get me my rods and when i get my cams in i can start reassembly.

just through ied throw in an update later guys

 

If you paid with paypal and their is a problem, let ebay know and paypal.
That normaly gets the ball rolling for the slow pokes. Let them know you are waiting and have already paid. DO NOT call the company and ONLY email through Ebay.

Got the exhaust hung loose and now I need to tack together.

 

lol. ill try not to, but im certain i will. for example just yesterday i did an a/c recharge and front pads on my jeep before i leave for vaca on sunday. changed the pads, reassembled, no problem. bled the brakes and had no pedal. kept bleeding, and bleeding, and bleeding... no pedal... wtf... checked the master, the booster, the lines. no leaks anywhere... went to bleed a little more thinking what the hell, its worth another try. grabbed the same 9/16ths wrench i had been using all night. WAIT A SEC.... 9/16ths.... "why the hell is my wrench so big?" i asked myself now that the beers i had been drinking all day are starting to wear off. "JESUS CHRIST!!! Im bleeding my goddamn calipers from the friggin banjo bolt!"

thats the kinda retarded **** i plan to "screw up" as i do this swap... lol

 

ha sounds like somethin id do

 

2V you shouldnt have to for any reason. none of mine needed to be extended

 

yes, i saw his write up for 5.4's but he does not talk about the cobra intake widened without adapter plates... or hell even with them...
i saw the one on the 4.6's he did though...

But wouldnt the torq curves and HP curves be different on a 5.4 compared to the 4.6 R3D??

thats why i thought it would be interesting to see you a build with a widened cobra intake... to see if it was atleast compareable to a boss 290... Say you pick up the intake 350 shipped.. have it shipped straight to MMR to get it widened.. then back to you fr 800 (including shipping...) thats 1150 in an intake.. not to bad... and you can use 01 cobra fuel rails... or mach 1 rails that will bolt straight up to it... and it would be alot cheaper then a boss 290...

 

nope... 2v won't have to unless you put the lightning supercharger setup on. Looky what I found... SVT was playin with a ranger and a lightning motor. I'm trying to find someone to make something similar with a passenger side inlet.



The cams and heads will have a lot to say about peak hp so not everything translates well. The rpm for peak HP should be reduced by 800-1000rpm over a 4.6 with the same intake/heads/cams/exhaust. So if you have to spin your 4v 4.6 to 7500rpm for peak power with a particular setup, figure 6500-6700 rpm would do the same thing in a 5.4 but it'll also lean over earlier. Like I always say, this is why we can get away with numerically lower ratio rear gears.

 

The motor I picked up hthe fly wheel or flex plate on it still... Can I use it or do I need to get one off a 4.6.. Oh and My car has a 4R70w in it now.

 

Should be able to use it then....

 

The intake setup on that Ranger is pretty sweet

 

Well I'd like to buy that one back and strap on a D-1...it would need a couple of other upgrades...certainly a new intake because the adapter plates were the restriction but it still managed to put down 603 at the wheels with 14psi...the torque was unreal though...definitely the 50 extra cubes...the 4.6 put down 450/475 before it went bye bye

 

what CR were you running on the 5.4?

 

Got a quick question.

Just picked up a 5.4L long block from a F150, I think its a 00 motor. Plan to use it to swap into my buddies 01 GT.

The car already has full bolt-ons. JBA headers, X pipe, cat-back, pulleys, C&L intake, Prof. Produts elbow and 75mm TB. Has been tuned by a proffesional tuner using SCT2, and last time it was on the dyno it was doing 270 ish to the wheels.

We plan to use the HPS intake, and use stock bottom end and heads for now. We are changing the cams and springs. Just curious to see what cams would do best in this car with stock heads and stock bottom. Also will we have PtV clearance issues?

Later it will be wearing TFS heads with a built bottom end.

 

The headers may not work, with or without mods to them, but I am not 100% on that.

Custom grinds, Cushman Motorsports (previously VT) and Comps all come to mind. A stage 1 N/A cam wouldnt hurt. I'd personally go with a stage 2 N/A cam. The stage 2 will help to shift the power band a little out since the 5.4 falls pretty quick. And IIRC, I remember redneck saying something about the profiles of a stage 2 dont affect the driveability of the 5.4 hardly at all, as they may in a 4.6.

As for PTV, some are trickier than others, but if set up right they wont. The VT cams never seemed to have problems, but from what I hear sometimes the Comps would HAVE to be degree'd. Has to do with variance in factory cam timing, and that comp engineers some timing into their cams to begin with, whereas VT did not. Bottom line, degree them and you will be a-ok.

 

what all do i need to remove from the motor before pulling it? anything else i should take out of the engine bay? basically, what is the easiest way to pull my 4.6/t45 together???

 

Why do you want to pull both together? It is easier to pull the motor /drop the trans separate.....

 

i just ordered cms stage 2 n/a cams will they need to be degreed? just curious since that last post

 

ok thanks

 

You don't have to Would be smart to

Some other forums have great write-ups on cam swaps and degreeing them in, check them out. If toothless hillbilly retards cam degree cams here in Ky,.........I know you can.

We will be here with all questions answered. just ask

 

I'd like to see a hi-tech custom grind on that. Something designed to work best with the TFS heads if you're serious about going that route. Don't bother with Comps off the shelf grinds. Hi-tech and cushman can both put together a custom grind that will make you happier in the long run. You very much want to degree the cams. Factory cam gears have been shown to be a little sloppy and you'll want them set right for max power. Look for a good 230 something duration and moderate lift. You shouldn't have any PTV issues with just about any cam that's street drivable. Your JBA's should work. IIRC myillwill tried them on hunters car.


+1

leave the tranny in the car when you're pulling the engine. Then pull the tranny. Pull the radiator out and lay the wire harness as much out of the way as you can. After that it's not too big a deal.

w00t!

degree them anyway. factory cam sprockets are not perfectly quality controlled. There've been variances. I'm considering getting a set of adjustables and retarding my cams a few degrees. Moreover... I think when MMR timed them they timed them like they were going in a 4.6 and put the 4 degrees of advance in. May be down on power by a good bit because of it.

 

When the TFS heads go on it later, it will most likely have custom grind cams. However as of now, it will have stock heads and so we don't want to spend the money on custom grinds. So an off the shelf cam will be used for now.

But a comp stage 2 or similar should be ok with PTV. Anyone running any of the TFS cams yet?

 

off the shelf and custom grinds cost about the same... but to each his own. I use comp 270's without any PTV worries.