What K-members are you guys running with the 5.4. and what springs are you running with the coil overs. I am trying to collect everything i need or that will make the swap easier. Have a motor out of an 02 F150 coming in in a couple of weeks. With the procharger and 10 psi boost what heads would you guys suggest.

 

Anyone looking for a Mustang that already has a 5.4?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ford-...fCarsQ5fTrucks
Who knows what the reserve is though.

 

with a blower get the biggest sewer pipe like heads you can if you're looking for big dyno numbers. If you want the best performance possible then TEA and Fox Lake have excellent heads. Trick Flow's new TW heads for modular are going to be the big dogs on the block though and if the extra 600 bucks or so doesn't scare you off then that's exactly where I'd go looking.

I use a stock k-member for the time being so the longtubes could be fitted for it. I'll be putting a MM tubular k on in a couple months. I use 350# front coil over springs right now but I'm putting 375's up front pretty soon (already have them). 350's are a hair firmer than stock but very comfy still and they take corners very well... about like a FRPP F spring in ride quality. 375's are close to a FRPP c spring in ride quality. A bit rigid but not painful. The rear springs are the ones that matter the most as far as ride quality goes. Just a tad too firm there and your ride quality goes to ****.

 

I was looking at the weight savings to help offset the heavier motor. This car is my daily driver at least thats what it started out as. I was trying not to totally kill the gas mileage but the power bug always prevails. What kind of mileage are you getting now? With the procharger i am geting about 18-19 with 3.73s. Thanks for all the info.

 

same mileage as before as long as my foot is out of the loud pedal. It gets significantly worse mileage when I'm deep in the pedal but for highway cruisin and even city driving it's not any worse than it was. You may want to consider less gear in the back. I find 3.55's to be a lot of gear for my combo as it sits. **** with 3.27's it'll still have plenty of git-up-n-go over the 4.6.

 

LOL. Maybe I should skip the 4.10's then

 

hunters has 3.73's and if you get into the gas fast pedal it lights the 295 firehawks's up on the street......

 

I figured I had to go with less gear from all the reading. 3.27s would be great for gas mileage but you would be flat out movin in the top of third gear wouldnt you? I have the factory 3.55s in my Termy and they seem kinda long but then again the 3.73s seem like you wind up too fast if your not always in the gas running hard.

 

3.55's for me were the best decision I could have made. I've driven big power cars with a lot of gear and it just takes the fun out of it on the street. 3.27's are kinda long really but get great long trip mileage. 3.55's aren't but a tiny bit different on gas but really wake the car up just enough.

 

i use granitelli k and qa-1 arms. coil overs with qa-1 200 in-lb 14" long. no sway bar.

 

the 3.90s i had in it were fantastic.

 

If thats the truth, I am going to be lovin the 4.30s in the back!

 

merry xmas you swines.........

hope everybody asked for a HPS intake from santa......

all i asked for was time to work on my project, this is what i got done last nite:

 

About time someone posted something..

 

Alright r3d.. This should be the last sim that I need you to run:
-5.6L
-11:1 comp
-StgII Fox Lake heads
-shorties
-StgII Hitech cams
-HPS intake
-And if it matters for your sim, it would be tuned for 93oct.
TIA

 

There are no off the shelf cams that will be good for a 5.4. All the cams available are optimized for a 4.6 and have LSAs that are way too wide. Since the 5.4 (in your case a 5.6) has a lot more cubes it will need cams with a lot more duration and a much tighter LSA. If you go with off the shelf cams you will be losing out on a lot of power. BTW, don't put too much trust into those sims.

 

w00t.

EDIT: true that. All tolled it's not going to give any different answer than it already has. The simulation is about at the end of its capability just ball-park'n it. With shorty headers you'll be lucky to clear 300rwhp.

 

I know the sims aren't completely accurate. But they are good for getting a rough idea of what you will make. So who should I go to for custom cams then?

 

There are a lot of people that can spec cams for ya. There is Brian at Hitech, Bullit, Anderson Ford and even I can do it (free of course). I've spec'd a lot of 4v cams (over 500rwhp n/a) and a few 4.6 2vs with the highest hp being 330rwhp with a PI intake.

 

I didn't get anything for the car. My wife bought me a new kitchen knife (a Shun 6" Chef, AKA a 6" petty with Pakkawood handle). I bought myself a 140mm Hiromoto Santoku right handed knife (vg10 cutting core with stainless cladding forged in the traditional manner) with water buffalo and ebony handle. Also got a signed first edition copy of Douglas Adams epic book "The Long Dark Tea Time of the Soul". A box set of Star Trek TOS pez dispensers (with pez), clothes, cash, gift cards, and Jelly-Belly candies till my ****** teeth hurt.

shun knife:


Hiromoto Knife:

 

Are you talking about doing a re-grind, or from scratch? (sorry...never had to do this before.) And that knife is pretty sweet r3d. I think I'd rather have this one though (video near the bottom of the page.)
http://www.hardwaresphere.com/2008/0...un-a-gunknife/

 

naw! my kitchen knives are individual works of art. Knives are like tools. It's best when they're built for 1 thing and 1 thing only. The hiromoto is designed for soft foods and soft boneless meats (fish, poultry). The shun is more a general purpose knife suitable for harder foods like melons, pineapples, red meats, etc... For deboning I have a David Boye dendritic steel blade that is better at taking the punishment of cleaving meat from bone (or just cutting right through the bone).

if we go mixin' guns and knives we're likely to end up one day blowing our heads off while trying to shave.

 

LOL. Somebody post some project pics or something. This thread has been really slow the past few days

 

Another quick question.. Is the stock 5.4 intake taller than the stock 4.6 intake? Just curious.. I've found a few 5.4's with the intake still attached, and I'm wondering if I could keep it on until I can afford the HPS intake.

 

the stock 5.4 truck intake is like 9" taller. You CAN'T USE IT without a giant hole in the hood. Use the HPS intake. It may take longer to finish the swap but it's 10000x easier that way.

 

Does anybody know what type of injectors I need. I have a 2000 convertible that I am putting a 5.4 2V in. It will have ported PI heads, HPS intake, JBA shorties, comp cams 270's, JLT cold air, a 75mm TB and a C&L plenum. Do these use the same injectors as the 86-95's 5.0?? The bodies look the same but I know the impedance may be different. Also what size do you suggest for this combo?? Thanks.

 

Thanks r3d. I figured as much, but it was kinda hard to tell from the pics.

 

they pretty much all use EV-1's, I'm really not sure when they changed to EV-6's but the impedance's are all high for what you need. 24's or 30's should be on safe side.

 

24's to start, 30's if you plan on putting any nitrous through it. Might want a fatter than stock pump in the tank or an inline pump as well. I have about the same combo. Be real interested to see what you make.

the man ^^^

 

New billets, not regrinds and don't let anyone talk you into regrinds.