in r3ds case,

 

oddly the first version of my post that I decided to edit alluded to going home and rubbin' one out all over the thing. I decided I'd take the high road. Tommy on the other hand... well we all know him well enough by now. heheh.

Bob left mine more unfinished than the ones he sent illwill. I'm considering breaking out the epoxy for a couple places but we'll see. He planned on me taking the cutter to it but honestly it needs built up in places more than it needs cut (well...except maybe a port match on the exits). I'm going down to see my car today unless another counter offer on the house comes through, in which case I'll be signing papers on the next counter offer. If the car is far enough along then I'll have them install it and run me a quick dyno pass.

 

You are the kid from the video that's floating around aren't you. You put NOS on your car with no switches or any safety stuff and ran it until the engine blew.

By the way, your video is up in the lounge section.

Sorry to get off topic guys. R3D, I think I'm gonna start looking into this build sometime early next year.

 

hmm no but thanks i will check out the vid anyway. i did get my motor pulled today tho and it appears that my timing chains have way too much slack in them. my co-worker and i were making jokes about how i that motor has never had it easy since ive owned the car and it looks like the chains took most of the abuse. after 2 trans rebuilds and a one ring and pinion i guess it was time to for the motor to give up. lastly i did find another 5.4 out of a 2003 ford expedition so is there something i need to look at on this motor? i just want to make sure i get the P.I. heads with the motor cause i may have sold my old PI heads and cams.

 

Hey guys. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to domestics, so take it easy on me. Long story short, I'm looking at selling my current vehicle and picking up an '03-'04 P71. I was just planning on leaving it stock, but one look at this thread changed all that . 239hp/287ft lbs is not enough. I wanted to do a stroker kit for the 4.6, but it seems as though that will only get you to 5L. That's whay Ibecame so interested in this thread. If I go through with the 5.4 swap, I will most likely stick with the 2v setup, as that seems to be the easiest way to go. Of course have a few questions for you, and I'd appreciate any input. First of all, has anyone compiled a definitive list of all the components/mods needed for the swap? And on that note, what can I expect to pay for the necessary components/tuning? I would be doing it myself, so labor need not be included. And finally, do any of you know if I will have clearance issues (concerning the hood) after I do the swap? I'd really like to keep a stock appearance, and a large bulge in the hood is a bit of a giveaway. I'm sure I'll have more questions later, but that's all for now. Thanks

 

by '03 it should have PI heads, but the timing cover will be missing the the two power steering bolt holds, so you'll need a cover if you get that motor. Everything else you can make work, or use off your old motor.

Well I made some headway in getting mine tuned, was running too rich. The wideband gauge I've got seems to fluctuate alot, I dont know if this is from its placement so far back in the exhaust or maybe the adapters interfering with the injectors. Maybe my settings are just that far out of whack.

I did some datalogging and maybe I'm missing something but the KG/Hr seems high. This was with it at operating temp.
KG/Hr MAF Volts RPM
625 .9619141 700
5061 2.714844 5061
Thats both ends of the spectrum, I need to go pick up a serial to USB adapter and I'll do some logging with the wideband controller and see if I can figure out whats goin on with it.

 

[QUOTE=00blackstanggt]Sorry to get off topic guys. R3D, I think I'm gonna start looking into this build sometime early next year. [QUOTE]
fantastic news. You'll like it. There's a motor on craigslist here for cheap. Good stuff. LMK if you have questions. We can probably do the swap over at my place by then.

You'll need a front cover from an earlier car. I used a 00' expedition. Any 00' and up motor should have PI heads. You can see a PI cast into the sides. there should be zero question of what you're getting. If you don't see a PI on the sides of the heads, it's not a PI.

yeah, 4.6-5.4 2v intake adapter plates from MMR or Reichard Racing or an intake manifold from HPS and a 5.4L engine, probably from something like an 01 or earlier expedition for the easiest time. Everything else is modifying stuff that's already there. Beyond that, you can make it as complicated as you want. Figure you'll need a welder and a saw. Everything else is all wrenches.

tuning usually runs 300-500 bucks all in, including a chip or handheld. You could run the motor on a stock tune but the auto trans in the mix really means you need a proper dyno tune. Your hood will probably clear without issue if you use the HPS intake. If you use adapter plates you'll likely need to cut a small hole in the top of the hood for the plenum to stick through, or use a very small (like 1-2") cowl hood.

Have you tried re-clocking your maf? If you just rotate it a few degrees one way or the other you'll probably get a different reading. See if you can get the measured maf counts to drop at idle by doing that.

And, in good news. Looks like I got the house. It's all in contract now so the bank not funding the loan for any bizarre reason is the only thing that can put much of a kybash on it now. If/when it all works out I'll be living a block from the local cop shop.

Who wants to help me move.

 

Thanks r3d. I doubt an intake made for Mustangs will work though, because Mustangs have the inlet piping on the passengers side. CV's have it on the driver's side. That kinda sucks. I really don't want to have to modify/change the hood

 

BTW, what would be the best way to get a 2v 5.4 up to 400 or so chp? That's what I'm going for at this point, though that may change in the future.

 

I can get a 5.4 with 80k miles on it out of a 2000 expedition for 400 bucks- complete motor. my car is a 99 gt 5 speed. im on a budget so wouldnt be building the 5.4 up at all. The way i understand it is that in 2000 that 5.4 should be a PI head already. and I shouldnt have to change the timing chain cover either right? I can use all of the 5.4's accessories right? would i need adapter plates for the intake manifold or no?

 

Its the t.b. elbow that faces one way or another, not the intake manifold... should be able to flip a Mustang elbow around or adapt a CV elbow to the intake, though I have no idea how much height you are working with...

 

Yeah.. Me neither. It's kinda hard to start planning stuff when I don't even have the car yet.

 

oh yee of little faith. take the plenum and face it the other direction. Use your OEM TB and call it a day. Or you can use stock stuff and adapter plates. I'd do the intake.

if you don't buy the HPS 5.4L 2v intake, then yeah you'll need adapter plates. That's the motor you want. Look for the PI casting mark on the heads and go from there.

they don't call em modular for nothing. (well.. it actually has nothing to do with this but it actually fits the bill quite well). For the most part, anything you can do power with a 4.6 you can power with a 5.4.

 

eh.. I'm losing faith in my idea already. I've been studying eBay pics of P71 engine bays, and I'm seeing some potential problems (especially on the passenger side.) It looks like there is some sort of box/outcropping on the firewall that sits about a half inch from the passenger side valve cover. If it sits that close to the 4.6, it will definitely get in the way of the new setup. Unfortunately, the pics I've seen aren't detailed enough. Maybe I can get someone to take some better ones for me. I'd definitely love to have a 5.4 though. Nothing crazy.. HPS intake, 10.8-11:1 CR, long tubes if I can make them work, 75mm TB, and a street tune for 93 octane. That would probably keep me happy for awhile, considering the fact that my current car only makes 300hp/295tq (which translates to 225whp.) I don't know though.. We'll see.

 

do a search on streetfire and you tube. there re a couple CV running with 5.4's

 

stop it already wtih the negativity or I'm going to call you "Negative Nancy". It's been done. It fits fine. Ever hear of MM&FF's "Full Size Tire Fryer" article? So, now that you're relaxed: From what I can tell the HPS intake should clear the crown vic hood. The lightning blower sticks out about the same on a P71 as a stang so it would stand to reason that the hps 5.4 intake must probably be pretty close to clearing if not all the way.

 

LOL. I guess I am being kind of negative . Alrighty then.. Anyone care to comment on the following blocks? First one is brand new (and bare.) Second one is a 2000 and it comes with a complete rotating assembly.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRP-P...mZ370065438175

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FRP-P...mZ370065438175

The used block is $300 + shp, which I'm assuming will be between $250-300. The brand new block is only $500 + 95 shp. I'm not sure which one is the better choice. I'm assuming the older block would be lighter since it was from a 2000?

 

Oops.. My bad. I screwed up the second link. Here it is >
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...mZ350107427977

 

I've got a crown vic PI intake on my 5.4 (with adapters), the plenum bolts up the same as a mustang, only issue i had was the mustang has two coolant sensors and the crown vic had one. I dont know how well an air inlet tube flows on a Vic but I'd just use the stock mustang tube (the factory black rubber one) so you could use aftermarket plenums and TB's , I dont think anyone would really call you on it, not like its polished or chrome, and they still flow well enough.

I checked my dad's F150 (with a 5.4) and it was giving me about the same KG/Hr, around 600+ at idle, up to 4000-5000 when you rev it up but the MAF volts only went to about 3. The mustang idles pretty solid now after it warms up, but now I dont want to start making changes till I can get some solid data out of my A/f gauge.

 

Not trying to rain on your parade but you'd be much better off buying a complete motor, the spare parts make it alot cheaper, buying parts seperately gets expensive.
If I had it to do over, I'd just buy a good built short or long block. I spend $1200 in just machine work and assembly for the shortblock, that was all labor, no parts.

 

after just installing my trickflow upper plenum yesterday...i am right at the point of topping out with bolt ons...list is as follows:
slp x-pipe non-cat
slp lm2's
aem brute force intake
steeda udp's
trickflow upper plenum

what cant i use from my present mods...barring the fact that the xpipe will have to be modified ...would it be easier to go with a two piece h-pipe and just add a wider pipe for the center connection...i know that the 5.4 swap is wider...is that due to block casting? i have seen someone using frpp shorty headers...can any shorty headers be used?...i do not wish to use longtubes if i dont have to...just from a cost standpoint...i would rather spend the money on the newly designed intake manifold and avoid the adapter plates issues....thank you in advance for the info...the reading of this thread has been quite laborous but also more than informing...i just dont think i saw or atleast remember seeing these issues adressed...thanks again...anyone want to buy any guns...i'm trading my old vice for my new one....

 

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum. In the past I've researched 5.4 swaps for my 02 Gt but never got around to doing anything about it.

I've been really interested in the prospect of a lightning swap as they seem to be slowly becoming more common. I realize the lightning engine has a taller deck height and will need a hood cut to fit. Now besides an obvious upgrade in the fuel system to handle the extra demand, what else is needed to make this work? Would the car need a new ECU or will the stock one do the job? Would I need a harness from the lightning? How about A/C, P/S, etc?

I'm sure it's been brought up before but this is one amazingly long thread and the help would be appreciated.

 

sage advice. If you can possibly save the money and just buy something already built, do so. It's really a lot cheaper if you're going the built/re-built route. I had to transform assets in one hobby to assets in another and that was slow and complicated so it took me longer and cost me more than it really needed to.

all your mods will transfer directly. grab an HPS 5.4 intake and run that boy. the 5.4 block is taller in deck height which forces the heads to be a little wider apart and a little bit higher up in the engine bay (we're talking an inch in each dimension so not by much). I'm currently using shorty FRPP headers. Fit is perfect. if you want to buy mine you can have them for 200 shipped since I'm having longtubes fitted right now.

what models of guns. I'm a collector. Oddly that's the hobby I shed assets from to get into modding my stang. Used to have quite a lot of them. Looking for a few bits for the collection.


if you're dead set on the lightning blower setup (which I think is a costly and unsightly error but it's your call), then you'll need a complete lightning engine (complete from throttle body to oil pan, including blower idler pulley bracket and lower blower pulley. Your stock harness and ECU will do just fine. You may have to stretch a few wires and you'll have to swap the Lightning return style fuel rails to a returnless setup (billet rails and all that jazz. see my website for an example), install an Aviator for SVT Focus fuel pump, and you'll want a catheter so you don't **** yourself. They're a handful NA. Blown is just a lot of gumption.

I'd recommend ditching the lightning blower and finding a used vortech v2 s trim (or t-trim better yet) kit and make a bracket for it. Better top end, not so much low end (there's already a LOT) and it'll fit under the hood. free advice, take it or return it at the counter to your left.

 

i want to see somebody do a 5.4 maurader

 

Normally I would go for a complete engine, but I don't have the money available to do it in one shot. I'm in the process of paying off my credit card which means I will only be able to buy one part (or small groups of parts) at a time. And I understand about the machining costs. That's what is making me shy away from a used block that may have serious issues. I don't think the end price for my build will be too bad. This engine will never see a turbo or supercharger, or even a hardcore NA build, so I don't need to go overboard when it comes to the parts.

 

Thanks for the advice. I've got a little bit of time before I do any swapping anyway so I'll definately be taking everything into consideration.

 

I know this is really OT, but what do you guys think of this paint job? >

http://photos.ebizautos.com/5516/2147276_5.jpg

Do you think I'll get a lot of crap from people? The color I like is kind of hard to find (Med Titanium.) Most of the P71's around here are white, which I am NOT a fan off. This color is unusual (similar to Audi's "Nogaro" blue,) but I'd choose it over a white car anyday. To make this a little ON topic, I think a car like that with a 5.4 conversion would be rare indeed

 

thanks r3dn3ck...i wonder if i can run my slp xpipe with slight mods to the lower pieces since it is modular ...guns that got to go for the car project are one of my ak's,s&w 60,an lastly my dpms ap4 .308...very sad to see them go but wtf...if the SHTF i got plenty others...thanks again

 

If you can't afford a complete engine you certainly can't afford to spend extra money uselessly by piecing things together bit by bit. Its not like you can stick the block in your car and drive around until you've saved up for rods.... If you don't need a built shortblock you'll be far better served by just saving until you can get a complete motor, you can get something with decent miles around here for $1200-1500. Piece it together along with machining the shortblock, bolts, gaskets, timing chains, cover, etc.... and you'll be in for twice that much and no better off. Use the extra money for gears, clutch, etc.....

 

Perhaps. Why would a new block require machining though? BTW, P71's are Auto.