screamin deal folks... jump on it.

 

here is hunters car at idle:

http://s105.photobucket.com/albums/m...42008-Idle.flv

 

Very nice!

 

since the dyno is 'coming outta the ground' mon. i'm gonna do some lt's for his car while waiting for the the dyno time....




- pics and hell lotta stress soon to come......

 

any of you guys have any experience with the tweecer tuning software? this looks like it might be a better option than the SCT stuff...i hate that SCT wont allow me to actually do anything...you have to pay a tuner to get any modification done outside of gear ratio or tire size...

 

SCT software will allow you to do whatever you want. Any orifice, <with slightly more emphasis> any orifice</emphasis>. The handhelds do not equal the software. One contains a tune, the other creates it.

I use SCT's pro-racer kit. It's a bit pricey but it's all there... software, handheld or chip & support.

 

...you can only tune one car with it...and you can only install it on one computer and i don't have the time or patience to hack the software


and i have a hard time paying $350 for software and 350+ for a hand held device that i can only use on one of my cars

 

so myillwillinc, red told me to ask you about long tube header guy that u have.

Does he have any?
If not how long would it take?
Also how much would it cost?

Car has been broke for 2 years and now i just need some headers to finish it so to say i am ready is a understatement

 

i'm taking mine to him wed to see if he can do it in a reasonable amount of time

anyone of you guys interested in a spec stage 1.5 clutch(stage 1 presure plate, stage 2 puck) i'm jumping up to a stage 3 and will give a deal on mine that has only and hour or so of idle on it.

 

I'm working on getting my car tuned and I got it to idle decent but it still doesnt start like it should. It turns over and wont fire unless I hold the gas pedal down. Any idea what is out of whack?

 

I had similar problems when it's cold or just being recalcitrant. It seems to not be a problem for me when it's hot out. I was thinking that fuel was getting blocked partially by the plates and when I richened up the very bottom of the MAF xfer function about 10% it stopped being such an all the time issue. According to rick at amazon this is a common occurrance with cammed cars.

 

I tried, but this thread has gotten too big to go back and look for things....

I'm trying to make a final decision between rebuilding my 2v and swapping in a 3v, leaning back towards 2v because of cost..... Who makes a cheap replacement piston? Need something with a dish around 10cc I think, gonna be n/a in a truck so nothing spectacular is needed.....

 

I have been using the TwEECer software now for a couple years. It is a really powerful software that has a steep learning curve. It is no where as "pretty" as the SCT interface, but gives you full access to all the tuning parameters you will need. There is a user board over on yahoo groups that has a lot of helpful hints on where to start. I was able to do the tune for my 5.4L swap pretty easily and it's nice to be able to tweak some of the parameters when something is not exactly right.

 

What does your MAF function look like, I bumped it up and it didnt seem to help. It seems like it will start more so when its cold than hot. If I cut it off and try to crank it back, it just spins.

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...P&autoview=sku bout' 190 bones for a set. Add a hundred for good rings. Keith Black makes relatively inexpensive slugs that are reputed to be just a bit tougher but not quite up to forged 2618 standards.

I took the stock 4.6 tune and added 8% to all the MAF counts below 500, then I added 2% to the 0-x box (don't recall what x was) and 1% to the next box and left that part alone. This is with a stock GT MAF. If you have an LMAF or SCT the changes would be different... probably the same strategy but diff values. I did that mostly to straighten out the idle but it had a side effect on the startup situation. Not complete salvation but improvement.

I've theorized that the adapter plates are a possible source of that headache. The fuel could be getting sprayed largely on them and so not doing its best to stay atomized. There are other factors but the injector is positioned pretty high on that port and that would normally cause the funnel of spray to be larger where it counts. I'll bet you a dollar I have to pull all kinds of fuel out with the new intake.

 

Thanks but I think my problem is something else, It idles alright now and will start sometimes, but if you cut it off and immediately try to start it back, nothing. I also bumped the minimum timing 2 degrees and increased the idle speed to like 750.

 

Great price, no dish (3 cc). I don't see other Speed Pro offerings from Summit, but they may be available elsewhere....

 

you usually have to call summit to get parts not listed on the site. If you want a really screamin deal on slightly better parts or lots better parts, call up The Mustang Depot in Riverside, CA. If you call you get a better deal than you get from their E-bay store.

 

Well....I did a compression check on a couple cylinders last night and the one I thought was a little low came out higher than before, I may not have spun the motor enough times before.... So, I'm hopeful that my problem is in the heads, just not sure how to prove it.... If its the heads I'm taking them to Hitech to get fixed and will add a set of their stage II cams, that would hopefully take me from 264rwhp up near 300.

 

There is a little more to just blindly bumping the values in the curve.
I worked with a tuner, and this is the approach we took:

1st off, you need a Wideband O2 sensor installed in your exhaust stream.
2nd, attach a multimeter to the output circuit of the MAF to read output voltage.

A little background: Your MAF transfer function is a curve with voltage (0-5V) on the x-axis and flow (kg/hr) on the y-axis. It is typically an exponential curve, that shows more voltage for more airflow. Each airflow measurement will correspond with a particular engine RPM. Your WBO2 sensor will give you readings in lambda. Where lambda =1.0 is = 14.7 A/F ratio; <1.0 is rich; >1.0 is lean

You take your curve, which typically has 30 points, and lay it out in a spreadsheet
Starting with no load on the engine (sitting in the driveway), start to take some readings...
You want to watch the multimeter and rev the engine slowly until you reach your target voltage - then take the reading off the WBO2 in lambda. continue to record data points for every voltage reading listed in your MAF transfer function. Once you have these readigns taken, you use those lambda measurements to multiply against the flow numbers. This will give you a revised curve. You then plug that new curve as your new MAF xfer function.

Example:
Airflow Voltage MeasuredLambda DesiredLambda Correctionfactor NewAirflow
110 0.38 0.91 1.00 0.91 100.1
140 0.56 0.91 1.00 0.91 127.4
160 0.74 0.92 1.00 0.92 147.2

etc, etc up until you reach about 4000 RPM, after that the computer goes into open loop mode and does not use the MAF for load calculation.

This will get you about 90% of the way there. You need to repeat this procedure with the car under load to tweak it in further. This is where a dyno helps beacuse you can drive along in 4th gear and slowly increase speed and take readings. I did it cruising along a long flat road using the cruise control, incrementally increasing speed until I had all the points plotted. Your ECU uses so much of the MAF curve data into its calculations, once that is set in, a lot of the other "problem" areas of the tune fall into place and you dont need to keep chasing your tail.

 

I'm using Sniper Commando and thats how its set up Volts vs. Kg/hr. I'm working on getting my Innovate LC-1 hooked up now. I'm not using my rear O2's so I'm just gonna stick it in one of those holes. Sniper has its datalogging program I can use to check the Maf volts but I need to buy a laptop. anybody got one cheap? I was doing some reading and what do you guys think about the adaptive learning and I read you should set the minimum Bara Pressure to 27 on heavily modified cars. Any input would be great.

 

If you got cats, you got to put the sensor before the cats since the cats can screw w/ the reading.

 

dan... do you have a fax number so I can send you a drawing and have you pick it apart?

PM me. grazi

 

here it is:
intake number two at my door...




sorry for the crappy pics......

 

now we just need both of them to run

 

this is for everyone who thought this intake would never be a real deal. bob is da man.....

 

Looks AWESOME !!! Cant wait to here some numbers !!!


What are they made out of?

 

A note for you guys:

One detail I forgot to mention was that when installing the 5.4 intake you'll need to change the hard line that goes from behind the water pump to the heater to a soft line. Bob and I talked about that detail at length and it came down to a few points that convinced us to get rid of the hard line on swapped cars:

1. soft lines are easy to change without removing the intake. This is the big one.
2. I've had the hard line leak more than once so I have zero faith in it.
3. soft line replacement cost me 7 dollars.
4. the plenum volume gained from extending the plenum into the hard line's former space has benefits for power production in NA and boosted combos, though for differing reasons.

 

- or just block it off. you cali guys never get below 70 out there......

 

Sent PM days ago, haven't seen anything?