What?? Peak HP at 3800?? I thought with the intake and cams that that would determine the tq and HP curves!! ???

 

it is. that was where it peaked on his engine due to his intake, heads and exhaust. you can't just change one thing and expect a totally different result when the total combo is what sets it up.

My peak HP came at over 5000rpm and my peak tq at 4000rpm because I had matched the cam, heads and intake for the power band I wanted. The longtubes should stretch that out a bit further. I'll be ecstatic if I get the peak HP rpm out to 5800-6000 and the peak tq to 4000-4400 with that change.

 

sry to change the subject here but anybody explosively blowing the plugs out of their heads? happened to a buddy of mine in his f250 and read about it online being a problem

 

I'll fix it. I do them all the time. New coil, new plug, intall insert in that cylinder. Done.

 

Well I got mine running, although like **** without it being tuned. If I remember right, didnt you guys have to fatten up the idle?

 

yep... especially if you have cams.

 

Mine didnt need anything at idle or criusing, but I had stock cams

 

What have you guys paid, or what can I expect to pay for a custom tune??

 

No swap in the works at the moment. But there may be one in the future. I have new wheels and tires though....

 

average price for a tune varies. You can get a handheld used for around 200 bucks and a tune from Amazon Racing runs about 125. For a custom dyno tune to refine that expect an additional 150-250. Don't take it to WOT until you've had it on a dyno and made sure it doesn't lean out or fatten up too much. You don't need a tune to just baby it to the tuner if you want to use someone local.

 

well it's offical.... bob just called and one of the intakes will be shipped out today!!!!!!!!!!



hunter's car might be done by next weekends test and tune at the track.....

 

Different vehicle, but my 2v is burning oil in one cylinder and if it comes out I'm 99% certain a 3v is going back in. When I bought the truck I had serious designs on putting a Navi motor in it, but the 3v is lighter, simpler, cheaper, and will make as much power in a mild build. I can get plates to bolt my headers on, and cams will be $600 instead of $1200. If I pick up a 3v I'll probably also whip out some adapter plates to put a Mustang intake on it, I think (haven't had a good close look) that the 3v has pretty straight ports compared to the angled 2v, so adapters wouldn't have the big jog in the ports that the 2v plates do.

 

do it do it do it do it do it

 

I know there's some info a long ways back, but maybe I can get quick answers on the 3v swap without spending an hour reading......

What I think I need...

Header adapter plates from Logan Motorsports will make my current longtubes fit. Anybody else make them?

Logan also has an adapter for the older style f.p. sender, I assume I would need this?

Cam timing lockouts from Livernois or other.

Machine a t.b. adapter for a normal t.b. to bolt on.

Cam sensor wheel needs some tabs removed, anyone have a picture or diagram of the modification?

Will the injectors and coil packs plug into my harness?

What else?

I'm at 264/343 now and I've seen 3v trucks around 265/330 with all the bolt-ons and stock headers/cats, so if my longtubes and high flows are good for the same gains on a 3v as they were on my truck it should be around 290/360 before I add cams....

 

You can save some cash by using V10 cam gears since the V10 engines don't have VCT.

 

Doh! I read that somewhere and had forgetten it, thanks for the reminder. I don't know if a feller could find them used though, and new Ford probably wants as much as the $50 Livernois lockouts, will have to check into it. They still might be a better choice depending on how they locate the cam as the lockouts I believe only allow full advance or full retard.....

 

randy = ur friend at times like this.

 

They shouldn't locate the cams to the extremes since unlike lock-outs, V10 gears are just gears. Before you buy new, check out your neighborhood junkyard.

 

some new stuff getting done on the beast......
ceramic coating on the turbo parts...

2 in 1 out intercooler...

 

Or for the cam gears you can get them at a pretty good price if you buy them from www.rockauto.com ... can get 2 of them from cloyes on there for like 20$ a piece or something like that... and there new... thats worth it to me cause going to the junk yard you could spend 20$ just driving around looking for them, and then another 2 hours to pull them off... and thats for used ones... id just buy them new...

 

Thanks for the link. Only thing I wonder about the V10 gears is they are probably on the advanced side of the VCT range for torque, I might possibly be better off going the other way.....grr....don't want to mess up gas mileage either... I'll have to decide if I'm for sure gonna add cams or not and if so let the cam grinder tell me which would be best... Cams will depend on what kind of price I find on a motor. I'll also have a 5.4 2v for sale if anyone is in this area, should be a very easy fix I just want to go 3v...

 

Randy = ???

 

http://www.cnlperformance.com/05_3v.html

Thought you 3v guys might like this.

Doug

 

Interesting read, but for me the first picture of the actual intake won't load....


Red, there's some very interesting info there as it pertains to your setup, and a comment I made a long while ago about the way you shaped the runner inlets on your intake being a detriment to flow. During CnL's testing they made a fixture the same size and shape as the '05 intake manifold port, not pictured or described completely, but without a radius on the entry the flow was turbulent and maxed out at 258 cfm. When they added a clay radius flow jumped to 344 cfm. Thats a good indicator as to whats limiting your combo currently, poor runner entry added to the jog in the adapter plates is probably limiting overall flow of the manifold and keeping hp down. If someone goes to use that 4.6 intake after you get the 5.4 version it would benefit greatly from using some epoxy to build a radius around the runner entries. Or, if I remember how it looks correctly (not gonna search this monster thread for the pics... ) maybe those 'knife-edge' entries can just be removed and round the runners from plenum into runner entry.... I'm very curious to see how your car responds to the new intake....

 

I know there's quite afew 4v 5.4 intakes out there but has anyone thought to just get HPS to make a "copy" of the Cobra R intake or the Boss 290? Since they are obscenely expensive and work better NA on the street that most sheet metal intakes. I'm not personally planning on going 4v but might be a better option for some.

 

Randy Stinchcomb. Ford parts man to the stars.

I wanted to cut the runners on my 4.6 intake all the way down to the roof but I only had 1 intake and no real flowbench. The shop vac jig I was using was also at the very limits of its ability to tell me anything. Just couldn't pull enough air. I got it to where it's at now watching the way smoke entered the runners. In as cast form the air entering the runners was forced into a pretty small area in the middle of the port. Stayed off the walls till it hit the first turn. I got it to where it would at least fill the whole hole but gathers it from different angles. I was not happy about the remaining bits of the towers but that's what I got with what I had and could test. It's hard to tell from the pics I have up but the runner mouths open up about 1/8". It was as close to a proper radius entry as I could get without breaking out the epoxy.

Talked to Bob this morning and I'm going to try and pull the intake and try to reshape those entrances flatter to the roof for a dyno test. The car is down for at least a couple weeks or so while the header guy does his thing anyway so I've got the time.


I recall seeing someone using Fidanza adjustable 2v gears on a new-edge/3v conversion. Saw pictures. IIRC it was 3v2000GT's project.

 

Shop vac, smop vac.....too bad you aren't near me, I'd give you one of the squirrel cage furnace fans I collected years ago thinking I might build a flow bench......

Can you post the pic again? Put as much of a radius on it as you can, might be a combo of rounding over what you have with some epoxy built up around. You need to slow the acceleration the air experiences as it goes from large plenum to small runner, the more gradual the taper the longer period of time that air has to accelerate. Ideal is more like a carbuerator velocity stack than the tiny bit of material most intakes give you to work with....

 

there's pics at my site.. just click on the small ones and you'll get the full size. www.squarerootofone.com

I'll give it a try.

 

Yup, thats what I was remembering, you've got a little bit of taper/radius, but the tall sharp edges are going to inhibit flow from the sides. I'd either cut them down to around 1/4", lay them back, and epoxy around the outsides, or just grind/mill the little stacks out completely. My questions there, though, would be is there enough meat in the casting to then create a decent radius without breaking through.....

 

Set of Navi heads for sale. $400 shipped.

http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/par...eads-sale.html