How To Burnout....
#2
you've never done a burnout? all you do is spin the tires, just drop the clutch and spin em' or you can get an SLP line lock that will lock up the front tires and you can do a burnout like an auto well kinda. Where in Massachusetts are you from?
#4
If you are using stock tires, DO NOT JUST SIT AND BURN THEM OFF!!!!
Here is how to get a great launch on stock tires....
First go to a deserted area and drop the clutch and just hammer it in first so you leave a nice set of black marks...Go back and look at them...If they are really black in the middle, but not so much on the outer edges, you have too much air in your tires...let some out....If they are really black on the outside but get light towards the middle you let too much out...every tire has a different "sweet spot" for air pressure...my M/T ET streets love 18lbs...where are my stock 245/45/17's loved about 24lbs....you will have to play with it a little, but the more even a black mark is from end-middle-end, the greater contact patch you have on take-off....also air those front tires up! No need for rolling resistance!
Ok, back to you original question: If you just sit there and burn the crap out of your tires "aka John Force Burnout" you will not e able to take off as good as if you just slightly burn the STOCK tires (enough to see as whisp of smoke) After that do a "dry hop"...which means right after you get out of the burn-out box, but still way ahead of the staging area, just jump on it a little to clean the crap off of your tires...then go to pre-stage....
I have raced many "stock " classes through the years (12 yrs of racing), and reaction time/getting off the line is crucial...
This is for stock tires only...BFG Drag Radials, and Nitto DR you can sit and burn a little harder because of the material they are made out of....
Good luck, and hope this helps....
Here is how to get a great launch on stock tires....
First go to a deserted area and drop the clutch and just hammer it in first so you leave a nice set of black marks...Go back and look at them...If they are really black in the middle, but not so much on the outer edges, you have too much air in your tires...let some out....If they are really black on the outside but get light towards the middle you let too much out...every tire has a different "sweet spot" for air pressure...my M/T ET streets love 18lbs...where are my stock 245/45/17's loved about 24lbs....you will have to play with it a little, but the more even a black mark is from end-middle-end, the greater contact patch you have on take-off....also air those front tires up! No need for rolling resistance!
Ok, back to you original question: If you just sit there and burn the crap out of your tires "aka John Force Burnout" you will not e able to take off as good as if you just slightly burn the STOCK tires (enough to see as whisp of smoke) After that do a "dry hop"...which means right after you get out of the burn-out box, but still way ahead of the staging area, just jump on it a little to clean the crap off of your tires...then go to pre-stage....
I have raced many "stock " classes through the years (12 yrs of racing), and reaction time/getting off the line is crucial...
This is for stock tires only...BFG Drag Radials, and Nitto DR you can sit and burn a little harder because of the material they are made out of....
Good luck, and hope this helps....
#6
Originally Posted by venom
On my Hemi Durango I just step on the brake and gas it up then let go of brake.
Thats an auto he has a stick.
-Just turn off Traction control.
-put it into first
-step on the gas when the rpms are about to hit 3k i pop the culucth out
-quickly move your foot that was on the culucth to the brake pedal and press the brake rather hard. if the engine starts to bog let off the brake a tad.
-feather gas to keep it off the rev limiter
and thats it.
#7
Originally Posted by dilo2001gt
you've never done a burnout? all you do is spin the tires, just drop the clutch and spin em' or you can get an SLP line lock that will lock up the front tires and you can do a burnout like an auto well kinda. Where in Massachusetts are you from?
Ok then stupid m,e I always do burnouts on the street..lol I just thought there was a way u could put the e brake on and do it, but i never tried cause i was not sure..lol Yea so forget my question now...I know how to do it. stupid me
Peabody, MA
#12
Traction control depend on the weather, it works good in the rain but driving a V8 in snow is trickey however you do it.
The reason for holding your foot on the brake, is to use the front brakes to keep the car still, the e-brake only locks the rear wheels so that wont help at all.
The reason for holding your foot on the brake, is to use the front brakes to keep the car still, the e-brake only locks the rear wheels so that wont help at all.
#13
I always have the traction control off. My friends transmission is jacked and they told him it was from the traction control system (too much strain on the tranny from the traction control limiting the engine, while the wheels are still spinning, leaving the transsmission right in the middle of it)
#15
Originally Posted by 02wt5sp
I always have the traction control off. My friends transmission is jacked and they told him it was from the traction control system (too much strain on the tranny from the traction control limiting the engine, while the wheels are still spinning, leaving the transsmission right in the middle of it)
And it is not better to run with it off or on. only difference would be that you will spin less or spin more thats it, well and less tire wear i guess.
#16
The Traction Control is useless to me...I mean....the main purpose for it is to keep the engine from going faster if the tires are spinning...How dumb are u if you need a computer to figure out your tire is spinning? :dontknow:
#18
i like it, i have actually used mine a few times and found it use full. i ust think that it should be off and only turned on when needed, but i dought that will ever happen as they think it helps to just leave it on for slippery situations.
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