is this realistic?
#1
is this realistic?
okay...i have a 1997 gt 4.6L 2v, automatic transmission. My car is going to stay N/A with no nitrous, and my goal is to get 300hp to the wheels. My only current mods are slp o/r xpipe and flowmaster 40 series mufflers. Let me know if you think my current mods and the ones i list will put me in the 300rwhp range...
Steeda cold air intake
Accufab 70mm throttle body/plenum
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
SLP Longtube Headers
Chip (not sure what kind yet)
Dyno tune everything once done
thats all i was planning on doing...give me your estimations considering my current mods and the ones i am planning to do...thanks
Steeda cold air intake
Accufab 70mm throttle body/plenum
Steeda Underdrive Pulleys
SLP Longtube Headers
Chip (not sure what kind yet)
Dyno tune everything once done
thats all i was planning on doing...give me your estimations considering my current mods and the ones i am planning to do...thanks
#5
#6
Ok, first, lets explain the whole heads/headers thing. Heads, or the correct term, cylinder heads, are mounted to the block. This is where the cams, valves, springs, and everything else associated with the valvetrain resides. This is what the air goes through after leaving the intake manifold. In order for you to reach 300 rwhp, you have one option. Ported PI heads. PI heads, or power improved (I believe), were brought out in the 99+ gt's. There is no way you will get to 300 rwhp without having some ported. Some great porters are VT engines, or Modular powerhouse. Now, onto the headers. SLP headers are GREAT, they are pricey, but the fit, finish, and gains from them are wonderful. You will definately need longtubes to get to your goal. Another absolutely necessary thing to get you to 300 hp is a new set of cams. The most popular brand right now seems to be VT, they make a stage one, stage two, and blower cams. You should be fine with either the stage ones or twos, but if you do the stage twos, you'll need new valve springs. Once again, you will not get to 300 rwhp without new cams. Everything else you have listed seems to be fine. I personally, would skip the Steeda cold air and save the money for something more expensive like the heads. As you can see, this is not a cheap way to get to 300 hp, so nitrous wont sound so bad once I give you some prices. Heres what to expect:
Ported heads: 1500-2000 dollars
Cams: 569.99 here for the VTs. If you get the stg. 2's, the new springs are about 200
Full Slp exhaust: 720 for headers, 400 for midpipe with cats, 400 for catback
Accufab plenum/tb: 410
Steeda pullies: 200
This is a fun way to get there, but not cheap. Also, with all the added airflow, you will definately need a dyno tune/chip. The only way to go in my opinion is a custom burnt chip from an SCT dealer. They have the best tunes out there and some of the best tuners to go along with it.
This guide should kinda help you, but you definately need to do some more research. Sorry its so long, but this is just the tip of the Iceburg. Good luck getting there, but honestly, its cheaper to get a supercharger and be at 400 hp than to go n/a for 300-320 hp. Just my opinion, its your money, do as you wish.
Ported heads: 1500-2000 dollars
Cams: 569.99 here for the VTs. If you get the stg. 2's, the new springs are about 200
Full Slp exhaust: 720 for headers, 400 for midpipe with cats, 400 for catback
Accufab plenum/tb: 410
Steeda pullies: 200
This is a fun way to get there, but not cheap. Also, with all the added airflow, you will definately need a dyno tune/chip. The only way to go in my opinion is a custom burnt chip from an SCT dealer. They have the best tunes out there and some of the best tuners to go along with it.
This guide should kinda help you, but you definately need to do some more research. Sorry its so long, but this is just the tip of the Iceburg. Good luck getting there, but honestly, its cheaper to get a supercharger and be at 400 hp than to go n/a for 300-320 hp. Just my opinion, its your money, do as you wish.
#7
Okay so maybe I am going the whole wrong route in getting my goal...thanks guys atleast i have an idea now how to go in the right direction...also, what are some good sites that sell the cams you were talking about for my car?? If i was to get cams, would i have to do anything else to my car or would just intalling the new cams work? thanks
#9
Well, you can only get the cams I was talking about if you have PI heads, otherwise, you may have piston to valve contact issues. MT used to sell them, but I dont think they are anymore. You could get them from VT's website, or you could look some other places. Their prices went up, so a lot of dealers arent selling them anymore.
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