You'd be surprised. The key is to find a grandma and buy it from her (kid you not, a lot of them drive them by me). Otherwise, they already lived hard lives as hot rods. But that's what makes them cheap so it then becomes a balancing act between price and abuse factor. But what muscle car (unless at the dealer) is not like that?

 

To clarify, although fox bodies are mildy common around here, what I meant is NONE of them are stock. Everyone has some cam and head package or intake something or other. I dont know enough about them to even know if I would appreciate the mods done to them.


Anyone know of any good writeups or reads about how to mod a fox body?

 

Ok...my turn...

1 - Honda Civics certainly have a roll in this world.

2 - Fox Body Mustangs can be had for cheap, but good luck finding one that is not beat to hell.

3 - I have access to a 1995 Z-28 with 31k miles on it. Car has bolt-ons and ran 13.1. It has a cam and some exhaust goodies. Car was never tuned, so could easily run in the 12's. Heads are ported too. Car has not run in 6 years and needs new gaskets between the LT's and the mid pipe. Car has been garaged on a lift the entire time, is dusty as hell, needs a new battery etc.., but likely looks showroom if cleaned up. Price is $5000. I have a buyer for it right now, but the deal could always fall through.

4 - LT's are a waste on the Mustangs unless you have a power-adder, or cams, or cams and ported heads. Cam and LT's will get you 300 rwhp. But, when used on a blower car, you may actually have problems because the car can actually make too much power for a stock block. They also make the tranny hard to service

 

I disagree. Long tubes netted me not only enough power to feel it (especially at 2,000 rpm on up), but I gained 1-2 mpg driving around town and 3 mpg on the highway. Also, I think a 60-70 hp increase is more than what cams and headers can do alone (remember our cars are 230-240 at the wheels). However, on a stock engine, 15-20 is reasonable guess on what headers alone can provide. Also, being that I've done a clutch on a car w/ and w/o long tubes, I can say neither are easier to do. Long tubes are nice in that the mid-pipe is easier to remove, as well as disconnecting the O2 sensors. However, shorties/manifolds do give you the space while you are trying to remove/install the trans (though not much more).

 

I will be getting my car back in a few days. Motor has a Stage 2 cam and LT's and will likely show 300 rwhp. That is 50 to 60 hp over stock.

 

It seems I messed up in assuming you were NA still. Those numbers make a bit more sense w/ FI.

 

No....I am NA. I used to have a blower.....different set-up now.