4.6 BLOCKS-2V-WHAT WORKS?
#1
07-03-2008, 05:25 PM
4.6 BLOCKS-2V-WHAT WORKS?
Having trouble with info on the 5.4 swap. Will ANY 4.6 block work for a 2V build? In other words can I get an aluminum 4.6 block as sold by Karkraft.com and use my 2V heads on it?
I was told that a block meant for a 4V will not accept 2V heads or at least that I would need a different front cover but what front cover will work?
I figure if the 5.4 will not come to fruition then I might as well build a lighter 4.6, relocate the battery and have the front end #100. lighter. Handling is fun also.
I could still use my SVO intake, get Hitech heads, Hitech stage 2 cams, 10.5:1 static compression at least, forged of course. Maybe even give into LT's, LOL, I have resisted for 2 years now. Even replaced the PYPES catback with the stock catback. 3-4whp was not worth the noise and drone.
Have Steeda UDP's. New differential coming, selling the present one with 4.10's for something different, maybe 4.30's. Anyone know if a Lincoln Mark VIII driveshaft can be shortened and work with the GT, a '99? Yoke is the same I believe, a foot or foot and a half longer. Well I will use that also for the smoothness they are supposed to provide.
Have a DIY RAI/CAI. Moved the fogs inboard and have a scoop where the fog was with 4" piping leading oncoming air into the stock air can. Can has a S&B filter like JLT uses and they have the best CAI IMHO.
Converter is a 3400rpm Dirty Dog stall unit with a tune locking it at WOT, dropped .2 with that, locking the conv. after the shifts at WOT.
Anything I missed? How about usimg an aluminum block, what is needed? THX! Tired. 5.4 would have been cool but info is difficult, too many pages to sort thru. Suggestions/comments?
I was told that a block meant for a 4V will not accept 2V heads or at least that I would need a different front cover but what front cover will work?
I figure if the 5.4 will not come to fruition then I might as well build a lighter 4.6, relocate the battery and have the front end #100. lighter. Handling is fun also.
I could still use my SVO intake, get Hitech heads, Hitech stage 2 cams, 10.5:1 static compression at least, forged of course. Maybe even give into LT's, LOL, I have resisted for 2 years now. Even replaced the PYPES catback with the stock catback. 3-4whp was not worth the noise and drone.
Have Steeda UDP's. New differential coming, selling the present one with 4.10's for something different, maybe 4.30's. Anyone know if a Lincoln Mark VIII driveshaft can be shortened and work with the GT, a '99? Yoke is the same I believe, a foot or foot and a half longer. Well I will use that also for the smoothness they are supposed to provide.
Have a DIY RAI/CAI. Moved the fogs inboard and have a scoop where the fog was with 4" piping leading oncoming air into the stock air can. Can has a S&B filter like JLT uses and they have the best CAI IMHO.
Converter is a 3400rpm Dirty Dog stall unit with a tune locking it at WOT, dropped .2 with that, locking the conv. after the shifts at WOT.
Anything I missed? How about usimg an aluminum block, what is needed? THX! Tired. 5.4 would have been cool but info is difficult, too many pages to sort thru. Suggestions/comments?
#2
07-04-2008, 08:07 AM
Any 4.6 blcok can accept 2v heads and you will of course need the 2v front cover.
If you are going to build a new motor and like idea of a lower weight block and are also interested in more cubic inches, you should go with a stroker or a big bore. The BB will make more power but it is also more exoensive, the stroker will give you another 20-30rwhp and and abotu 20ftlbs of torque. the added torque is just what an automatic trans car needs. The Hitech cams will still work great also.
If you want to stay stock bore/stroke the combo you mention will work great also, probably 290rwhp with an auto.
LTs, do them.
There is one mod that has to be done to the block in order for it to acceot 2v heads but the specifics of it excape right now.
If you are going to build a new motor and like idea of a lower weight block and are also interested in more cubic inches, you should go with a stroker or a big bore. The BB will make more power but it is also more exoensive, the stroker will give you another 20-30rwhp and and abotu 20ftlbs of torque. the added torque is just what an automatic trans car needs. The Hitech cams will still work great also.
If you want to stay stock bore/stroke the combo you mention will work great also, probably 290rwhp with an auto.
LTs, do them.
There is one mod that has to be done to the block in order for it to acceot 2v heads but the specifics of it excape right now.
#3
07-05-2008, 07:24 PM
Any 4.6 blcok can accept 2v heads and you will of course need the 2v front cover.
If you are going to build a new motor and like idea of a lower weight block and are also interested in more cubic inches, you should go with a stroker or a big bore. The BB will make more power but it is also more exoensive, the stroker will give you another 20-30rwhp and and abotu 20ftlbs of torque. the added torque is just what an automatic trans car needs. The Hitech cams will still work great also.
If you want to stay stock bore/stroke the combo you mention will work great also, probably 290rwhp with an auto.
LTs, do them.
There is one mod that has to be done to the block in order for it to acceot 2v heads but the specifics of it excape right now.
If you are going to build a new motor and like idea of a lower weight block and are also interested in more cubic inches, you should go with a stroker or a big bore. The BB will make more power but it is also more exoensive, the stroker will give you another 20-30rwhp and and abotu 20ftlbs of torque. the added torque is just what an automatic trans car needs. The Hitech cams will still work great also.
If you want to stay stock bore/stroke the combo you mention will work great also, probably 290rwhp with an auto.
LTs, do them.
There is one mod that has to be done to the block in order for it to acceot 2v heads but the specifics of it excape right now.
Are Flowtech headers mabe by Holley like the Hookers? It seems that they are for some reason. Hookers are $500. uncoated, about $300. more with! WOW! MACS are supposed to fit an automatic but not sure how well. I would have the motor out so might be easier to have the headers inplace?
Man I have been avoiding headers for 2 years now and may have to give in. 10whp and 10wtq did not impres me but I guess getting the ylinder clear for a fresh charge would work well and produce power but strange it does not show but except in the seat of the pants and apparently at the track!
#4
07-06-2008, 08:49 AM
The power I get from my Hookers made it well worth it, until I started trashing cats (not the fault of the headers but it's pissing me off that I have to replace them for the 3rd time in a year). Also, yes, the Flowtechs are the same, just I believe they use a different style collector.
#5
07-07-2008, 12:47 PM
Are Flowtech headers mabe by Holley like the Hookers? It seems that they are for some reason. Hookers are $500. uncoated, about $300. more with! WOW! MACS are supposed to fit an automatic but not sure how well. I would have the motor out so might be easier to have the headers inplace?
10rwhp/10rwtq at peak, but you also get larger gains prior to peak.
#7
07-11-2008, 06:52 AM
So LT's without na doubt. And if cost is an issue the Flowtech's will work? I have to see if they indeed make a LT for our cars and if they clear an automatic. Hookers are nice but I was surprised to see 18 gauge and 5/16" flanges. I thought premium headers were now 3/8" flanges and at least 16 gauge. Costly aren't they and I have to farm out the work. 7 hours at $50./per. Likely cost $400. for the install.
Got hit by a girl on tuessday and her insurance said they would only accept 70% responsibility so that will cost me another $500. Yeah! I was in the road having bqacked out and she backs out of a drive across and when I saw her she was about 6ft/ from me and coming fast so I tried to get out of the way and because I did not hit the horn I am 30% responsible! Now I have to submit to my insurance and they will go after their company and hope they get some payment and then I might get back part or all of my deductible but that could take up to a year! Got to love insurance, got to have it but Darn, forbid thaT YOU EVER HAVE TO USE IT! LATER GUYS AND THANKS. i WILL POST ABOUT THE fLOWTECHS. MARK
Got hit by a girl on tuessday and her insurance said they would only accept 70% responsibility so that will cost me another $500. Yeah! I was in the road having bqacked out and she backs out of a drive across and when I saw her she was about 6ft/ from me and coming fast so I tried to get out of the way and because I did not hit the horn I am 30% responsible! Now I have to submit to my insurance and they will go after their company and hope they get some payment and then I might get back part or all of my deductible but that could take up to a year! Got to love insurance, got to have it but Darn, forbid thaT YOU EVER HAVE TO USE IT! LATER GUYS AND THANKS. i WILL POST ABOUT THE fLOWTECHS. MARK
#8
07-11-2008, 07:51 AM
5/16" flanges are meaty enough and as for the 18 gauge tubing, that's because they are Super Comp headers. Super Comp headers are designed more so for racing while Comp headers are designed for more street use. That's why Comp headers have a better fit and 16 gauge tubing. As for them being costly, they are still cheaper than Kooks and SLP and they still make great power.
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