Hello everyone, names William, and I am a hobby-racer. Sorry for my first post being a question but there is something I need to know.

Does anyone know of a complete 2V head that can run .600 lift at 7500rpm fairly reliably (i'm not looking to rebuild the head every weekend)?

Just bought a 1999 Mustang GT and plan to try and make it my first N/A car, up untill now I have always run forced induction.

I was looking at...
Comp Cams Xtreme Energy XE278AH
Patriot Stage 3 heads

But I don't know exactly how the stage 3s stand up to higher-rpm use (they were recommended to me by a friend), never needed to go past 6.3k on my turbo motor.
Any help on the subject would be great.

Thank you.

 

You should research the PI head's characteristics more. Excess lift is helpful with forced induction cars but it doesn't seem to help the NA motors much. Duration and centerline will be more important. If you're needing 7500rpm then you're racing cuz there's no need for that on the street.

As for patriot heads... I don't think that's really who you should be talking to. You're asking for basically a dedicated race part so I'm going to say you should call up Johnny Lightning Performance (JLP) and ask JL for a set of their stage 4 ported heads or the new XR head. You should be able to see flow numbers of 240+ which crushes even a patriot III head.

You'll need a custom intake or you'll not see good things at 7500rpm. Aside from that, .600 lift isn't a feature of comp xe278's. You'll need a custom grind cam. I'd recommend actually calling comp and telling them about your heads, intake, and use case and let them design a cam for you.

Be prepared to blow 3 grand or better on the heads and 600-800 on the cam.

 

7500 gonna be hard on everything

 

I know those cams don't have that high of a lift, but I wanted to be safe, and i figured if the heads didn't float at .0600/7500 then they should be just that much safer on lower lift cams.

Thanks for the advice, ill look into JLP.

 

Id contact Modular Powerhouse.

 

Another question, will 17X10.5 (w/ 315s) fit under the back w/ out rubbing?

 

Yea theyll be fine.

 

you're gunna haveto roll the fender lips.

Springs, valvetrain mass and cam ramp rate and total duration determine the float point for the valves. 7500 rpm is HUGE. If you want to play you'll have to pay.

I'd say if you really want that kind of RPM then try the 4v heads. They're designed for it. The 4v's only lift .550 on a really really tall cam but with 2 of each valve you can get some pretty nasty high rpm performance.

 

No problems here. But Im running stock springs. If you're going to build up a car like this, then why would you be running 17x10.5 with 315's? Or is that for a different car?

 

I'm not too concerned about cost.

But correct me if I am wrong, wouldn't I need to re-do pretty much everything for a DOHC 4.6 setup? I was originally considering it but some people put me off when they said that the cobra head swap would require a lot of custom fabrication.

I believe he said the intake ports were the wrong shape/size or something along those lines.

I am living in Germany right now on a military installation, makes it kind of hard to get access to a decent welder, let alone a pipe bending machine.

Good info though, like I said I am in unfamiliar territory w/ this car so all the help is appreciated.

 

Same car, looking for the largest contact patch w/ a stiffer sidewall. Car isn't going for the 1/4, being built for the technical tracks here in Germany.

Hockenheim ring is only 15 minutes from my house, and the Germans LOVE to talk crap about American cars. So, naturally, we made a lot of friends when we hit the track in a SRT-8 and a GTO.

We have a standing challenge going, they have to build from scratch a German car that has an original AND current value of less than $30k, and likewise with us for a completely American car.

One lap around Nürburgring.
One run down the 1/4.
One dyno run.
And one slalom.

The one who wins the most even walks away with bragging rights.

Rules:
Car must retain its original engine block.
No forced induction on cars that did not originally come with it.
No custom fabrication, must use publicly available parts.
Chassis can be reinforced but cannot be otherwise modified (no cutting).
Cars must be street legal and drive to and from the track.
Fuel cannot exceed 100 octane.

I hope that explains everything.

 

I see. Then Id look into Maximum Motorsports for suspension stuff.

 

I was considering steeda's "full race" suspension... never heard of maximum motorsports. Ill stop by their webpage.

 

steeda is a joke. they repackaged the stock setup and added a PHB. In the end their 5-link is nothing special. MM and Griggs are where you go if you want the best designed parts for the application. Griggs is best for track cars (lighter), MM is best for street cars (more durable). Before you buy suspension, really really take a few minutes and think about what you expect from your car, then go buy a system that delivers that in a box.

 

Thanks for the info. Researching griggs/maximum motorsport now.

 

sorry to bring up a dead post but....

if you were deciding to stay with the 4 valve i could of told you that someone is selling a totaled 99 cobra near stuggart for 2000 EUROs i would of bought this but my garage is too small for me to remove everything. this was going to be my manual swap car.

its kind of too late but back on the 20th of feb the car wasnt even totaled then and now some clown from poland put a deposit on it.

 

The guy I bought my 2v off of was friends with the owner of that Cobra, small world. I did put in an offer but the local nationals beat me too it.